You said it partner, left out opinions on Fram vs other oil filters!!! I feel bad for buddy who created this thread but use search and put another pot or 3 on of coffee for the fact that almost no one agrees on oil/filters/or lots of times even the correct weights of oils. Alot of bias, but you decide on what makes you sleep better. Some are content with what is on sale, some justify using Red Line Synthetic blah blah. I use what sponsors my favorite drivers, makes me feel good, and it proves sponsorship works

 

Right, and if someone wants to chime and comment on being tired of seeing the same old comment...."REMEMBER, WE LIVE IN AMERICA, THE LAND OF FREEDOM OF SPEECH AND FREEDOM OF CHOICE!!!"

Look familar?

 

Don't fix what isn't broken. If the oil you're using works, keep using it. People that claim a certain oil boosts HP or cleans your engine are either ignorant or blind brand fanboys.

Filters- I use whatever's on sale. Lots of people say fram ones are trash, but I've never had a problem. The local Advance carries all Purolator stuff, so that's what I most commonly use.

 

Yeah.... that and using the SEARCH FEATURE!

 

Austin, you asked a very broad question and you would think the answer would be short and sweet. No such thing when it comes to oil and formulations but it's hard to chose a bad oil today as long as it meets Fords 930 spec. You asked about synthetics. Most are now a Gp III dino basestock which includes the Mobil One line of oils as well as Castrol, Valvoline,etc. The "true" synthetics are pretty much down to Amsoil, not including their XL line, and Royal Purple. For the average user they are too expensive but if you buy into the entire Amsoil program it is a sound investment, just too much money for the average Joe. There will be no performance or life gains because of the PAO basestock versus a dino synthetic or a blended oil. Usually the blends will turn in the lowest wear metals in analysis because you have the best of both worlds. The PAO basestocked oils have issues that have to be overcome with chemistry- they are no magic bullet at all. If you have Artic conditions where you live, they might be helpful on cold startup. I would suggest staying with a 5w-20 oil. The 5w will allow the oil to flow quicker to the cams which is why Ford recommended it. The overall 930 spec says that the oil can only have 30 gr of high heat deposits over the life of the oil. The oil is tested at 302F which is higher than your engine should ever see. It cannot shift out of its viscosity range due to shearing or oxidation. It's a pretty stable and bullet proof spec for oils. I use Havoline because of the moly content and change at 7500 miles with analysis. So far have single digit wear metals and have not had less than a TBN of 2.1. Most folks change their oil far too soon but old habits die hard. I would suggest following the owners manual on oil changes. For a recommendation as what to use: pick a brand, don't pay a lot for it, change at the recommended interval, sit back and enjoy the ride. Todays engines usually out last ownership anyway.

Oil filters. We have run tests on engines using no filters at all. You would think that the particle count would go thru the roof and wear metals go up as well. Not so with todays engines/oils. Some of the manufacturers are looking at no filters at all on their engines. Some have looked at the so called lube for life systems where the filters are huge and contain acid neutralizing compounds and time release additives. The 50,000 mile oil change is available today. So don't spend a lot on a filter. The current production engines are that clean and that tight that dirt and outside particlulate isn't an issue. As far as which you use, pick one that you like. Frams have had issues with the media collapsing inside the can, issues with the anti drain back valve not working, etc. But they make a lot of filters and lots of folks us them without any engine damage. Oil filters will be a compromise no matter who makes it. You will either lose filtration for more flow or less flow but better filtration- you can't have both. If you want the absolute best filter at filtration and decent flow and don't care what it costs, the Amsoil EaO is for you. Otherwise a Motorcraft is a dandy. Wix is also a good filter and is more regulated toward flow than filtration. Wix states that if you can get 40 micron absolute filtration you have the bases covered. That's what they build to- 40 microns absolute. A particule of 40 microns can do damage to your engine. A micron is 1/1,000,000 of a meter. So pick a filter, don't pay a lot, sit back and enjoy the ride.