Want to tow, need suggestions
#1
Want to tow, need suggestions
I own a 2001 F-150 XLT Super Cab with a 4.6 (115K miles) under the hood. I would like to be able to tow my show car (5000lbs) from state to state on an 18ft. tandem axle trailer I know that my truck isn't exactly what you would call a decent tow-rig, but I need to make it work. What mods could make my truck more capable of such a task? So far, I have installed a cold air intake, and a Diablo Tuner Program. I have not changed any of the parameters in the tune, but I will if you have any suggestions on which to mess with(ie.timing, shift firmness, fuel curve, etc.) I also have a Hidden Hitch behind my roll-pan (class 3). I know this is a pretty deep request for suggestions, but I will appreciate any.
Thanks,
Adam
Thanks,
Adam
#3
That isn't a tremendous load, and while it is at the upper level of that truck's capacity I wouldn't be overly concerned
The electric fan is a good idea. Adding a separate tranny cooler or temp gauge might be a good idea as well. The latter is fairly easy and a great way to keep tabs on the tranny. Install the gauge and drive normally for a bit to determine a "baseline". Then tow the trailer w/load around a bit. To simulate worst-case, find a hill and shift to 2nd even if you don't need to, drive about 40mph. Try to do this for a couple minutes to determine your "peak" temp. Poke around the net to find what your trans normally runs at, and determine from that if you need a tranny cooler.
If your trailer has electric brakes, make sure you use them. If not, consider adding them. A load like that can easily double your stopping distance relying solely on the truck's brakes.
If you're willing to get a little dirty, you could change the gears in the rear axle. Try to find 3.55 or even 4.10. Fuel economy will suffer a bit but you'll save a lot of wear on the motor and trans.
I would stray away from screwing around with the tuning of the motor. The pre-programmed parameters should be fine. You're not going to be setting speed records with that trailer anyway. Personally I wouldn't use any chip for hauling, but that's just me.
Driving habits play a big role.
-Try to avoid using the A/C whenever possible, and if you need to don't leave it on all the time(turn it off when the cab gets cool).
-You're in a truck hauling a trailer, and you're not Tony Stewart. Don't feel the need to be keeping up with traffic. Staying at 65 on the highway instead of the usual 73-75 can save gas and unnecessary wear.
-Don't be afraid to downshift. Downshifting and bumping the RPM's up is better than "grinding" the motor in a lower gear until the trans finally shifts down by itself. If you want to play with the tuner, this would be the place for it. Set shifts earlier rather than later to minimize strain on the motor. You won't save any gas having the pedal floored in 4th at 2000rpm versus running 3000 RPM in 3rd. You WILL save tremendous strain on the motor. With a load like that, I would keep O/D off all the time(It will also save your brakes going downhill).
The electric fan is a good idea. Adding a separate tranny cooler or temp gauge might be a good idea as well. The latter is fairly easy and a great way to keep tabs on the tranny. Install the gauge and drive normally for a bit to determine a "baseline". Then tow the trailer w/load around a bit. To simulate worst-case, find a hill and shift to 2nd even if you don't need to, drive about 40mph. Try to do this for a couple minutes to determine your "peak" temp. Poke around the net to find what your trans normally runs at, and determine from that if you need a tranny cooler.
If your trailer has electric brakes, make sure you use them. If not, consider adding them. A load like that can easily double your stopping distance relying solely on the truck's brakes.
If you're willing to get a little dirty, you could change the gears in the rear axle. Try to find 3.55 or even 4.10. Fuel economy will suffer a bit but you'll save a lot of wear on the motor and trans.
I would stray away from screwing around with the tuning of the motor. The pre-programmed parameters should be fine. You're not going to be setting speed records with that trailer anyway. Personally I wouldn't use any chip for hauling, but that's just me.
Driving habits play a big role.
-Try to avoid using the A/C whenever possible, and if you need to don't leave it on all the time(turn it off when the cab gets cool).
-You're in a truck hauling a trailer, and you're not Tony Stewart. Don't feel the need to be keeping up with traffic. Staying at 65 on the highway instead of the usual 73-75 can save gas and unnecessary wear.
-Don't be afraid to downshift. Downshifting and bumping the RPM's up is better than "grinding" the motor in a lower gear until the trans finally shifts down by itself. If you want to play with the tuner, this would be the place for it. Set shifts earlier rather than later to minimize strain on the motor. You won't save any gas having the pedal floored in 4th at 2000rpm versus running 3000 RPM in 3rd. You WILL save tremendous strain on the motor. With a load like that, I would keep O/D off all the time(It will also save your brakes going downhill).
#4
You're pretty much required for atleast electric trailer brakes, which a carhauler like that would most likely come with them new as it's a law or something for certain GVW?
Get yourself a Prodigy controller, good to go. Leave overdrive on unless it starts hunting for gears, then keep it off.
Maybe get a trans temp gauge? Autometer has a nice selection.
Get yourself a Prodigy controller, good to go. Leave overdrive on unless it starts hunting for gears, then keep it off.
Maybe get a trans temp gauge? Autometer has a nice selection.
#6
#7
Originally Posted by dungeoncustom
Where would be a good place to purchase a 4.10 for my truck? Will I need anything besides the gear, like a new differential in the rear end?
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#8
Originally Posted by Klitch
i used drivetrainwarehouse.com for my 4.88's. i would recommend you have a limited slip of some type for just in case if you dont already have one.
what Klitch said x2.. look around online if you can wait for delivery and install yourself, or just ask around to any pu performance shop near you.. not that hard to do-it-yourself, just very, very messy.. LOL...
#9
man its messy. this is my FOURTH time going into the rear end because i chose an inferior locker unit. oh and because for some reason my ring gear shucked some of the bolts out of it twice WITH red locktite... i solved that with 2 small tack welds on the head of the bolt... mmm thats gonna be f'n fun to undo when i put in my detroit locker.
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#15
Maybe....
Originally Posted by dungeoncustom
I own a 2001 F-150 XLT Super Cab with a 4.6 (115K miles) under the hood. I would like to be able to tow my show car (5000lbs) from state to state on an 18ft. tandem axle trailer I know that my truck isn't exactly what you would call a decent tow-rig, but I need to make it work. What mods could make my truck more capable of such a task? So far, I have installed a cold air intake, and a Diablo Tuner Program. I have not changed any of the parameters in the tune, but I will if you have any suggestions on which to mess with(ie.timing, shift firmness, fuel curve, etc.) I also have a Hidden Hitch behind my roll-pan (class 3). I know this is a pretty deep request for suggestions, but I will appreciate any.
Thanks,
Adam
Thanks,
Adam