I also use Royal Purple 5w20 oil, with a quality filter oil changes are lengthened to ~10,000 miles. www.royalpurple.com says so on the web page,
and really does work.

 

Yeah, and Mobil says that their oil will go 15K miles. Truth is, if you are not doing some type of oil analysis, you are totally blind as to what is happening with your oil if you keep it in for extended periods. Personally, would never run oil 10K miles without at least 1 filter change in the middle.

Send a sample of that 10K old oil out for analysis next time. You might be just a little shocked at the results.

 

I don't actually go that long between oil changes, I go ~6000miles that just what the website STATES ! and yes I change the filter every 3-4000 miles.

 

would you please share the source of your facts about heat breakdown and additives being better than mc oils.

look at the ford spec. for 30 series oils and see if you can find anything that has less breakdown on the viscosity tests.

MC 5w20 blend is made by Conoco Phillips, I think Conoco Phillips is kind of a big oil company

 

ive used castrol 10/30 in every vehicle ive ever had, never a problem

 

That's what I was wondering. I have been using 10w30(sometimes10w40) in my 97 4.6. I see what Ford recommends and what you guys have been talkin about, but will it hurt to run this instead of 5w20? I mean I have been using it since I got the truck with 66,000 miles now its got 144,000 and I haven't had any problems with the motor or any oil issues. But, is there something that may come in the future for using the 10w30? I am paranoid I know but let me know what you think. Thanks

 

rosco,
MC 5w20 is a hydrocracked oil that even their MC 5w30 is not.
It has qualities favorable to both ends of the temp range and a bit better in fuel mileage. This is why they changed over to this reccomendation.
Nearly every car and truck from 96 up with a few special exceptions uses 5w20.
Among those exceptions are the hot Mustangs, some engines with different builds, internal metal alloy differences and upgrades over the years. etc.
Using other oils won't hurt but this is the difference. An advantage overall.
Walmart has 5 gal containers at about $11. Just a price increase here.
Autolite now has an 820s filter but I see it looks a bit different when looking down the hole.
No need to worry, just use the MC oil or whatever you want.
This fetiche about oil worshipping gets out of hand.
75,000 on my 02 using MC every 5000. The engine is perfect. No noise no leaks, nothing. Oil pressure cold start is 75 psi, hot idle as 25, hot running at 55 psi.
If in doubt about anyoff this, visit the Motorcraft site and download the bar type oil reference and filter chart for all models from 96 up.
Good luck.

 

Its amazing how most people dont want to listen to the guys with engineering degrees who designed the motor. They probably did thousands of hours of testing with their own oil before making that recommendation. And they did it for the main reason of doing what they could to avoid warranty issues with what they planned on telling you to use, and meeting gov't regulations at the same time. Ford is going to do what benefits them the most, and that is not having your engine (the most expensive part of the vehicle) break because if their oil not doing its job. Why do you think they fight so hard to prove you did something wrong if your engine fails?

 

Good read and info about the subject....

http://wheels.coxohio.com/wl/Content...ight061105.htm

 

ford DOES NOT CARE what happens to your engine as soon as you step out of the waranty period. if anything happens, then they get to sell you a new vehicle. with that said, the 5w20 has been proven on UOA charts that it will allow slightly more wear. 5w30 is the same viscosity at cold start so it gets around the same. ford just wants to look better for the government so they say "hey, we can use this thinner oil that allows more wear, but any failures will likely be after the warranty period which we set, so who cares?" also, how much money would they make if they were replacing vehicles that lasted 2 and 3 hundred thousand miles before they were replaced? it's common sense, folks. i've seen these modular engines go 300k+ and still running strong on 10w30 and no problems yet. i think the thicker oil between the 5w20 and the Xw30 is the best. thicker oil protects better, thus less wear.

you have to realize these engineers aren't out to make the engines last, they are out there to make money, make a product that will get the engine through the warranty period and a bit more. then if something fails, then it's just "normal wear." 5w20 is harder to find than a 5w30 or 10w30, so it's just another excuse to cancel your warranty if you picked up something that was easier to get. in reality, it's basically the same, but a little better but since it doesn't meet their "CAFE" requirements, they will putt a wall up of bull $h!T up that "you didn't use OUR oil, so we're not going to honor your warranty. screw you."

it's all about making money and selling vehicles for ford these days. not lasting a long time and having a quality product with a better warranty. that's what TOYOTA is for. speaking of toyota, i'm glad someone's realized that consumers want some POWER! ford has sat around on their big butt long enough and had their fair share of time to make a bigger v-8 than the 5.4. toyota seems to be one of the smarter companies that will offer the 5.7L 375 HP v-8, along with their warranty that is better than ford, in a truck that gets better MPG. COME ON FORD, get your head out of your a$$!!!

 

I dont think I said to cover it for the life of the vehicle, I also said to meet govt regulations. And if you can find an auto maker who isnt all about making money, and will be compassionate past the warrant period, you arent on this planet. According to the used oil analyses I have found, Motorcraft 5W20 shows very low wear in these engines. And if you knew anything about Ford, you would know they have always been behind everyone in the HP game, and if it bothers you so much, why did you buy one? And I dont know where you shop, but 5W20 can be found everywhere here. So I will pull my head out of my *** as soon as you do.

 

Not so, in 99 Ford lead all brands in HP. THe 5.4 edged out the Dodge 360 and Chevy 5.3 (toy and nissan wern't playing).

 

Does any one know how many quarts go into a 1985' 300c.i. inline six? I think it's five but I need to be sure.

 

First off, you come off a little bit like a nut. How are you going to come to a Ford forum and talk s^^t about them? That doesn't make a lot of sense.

What's more, Ford doesn't build engines that self-destruct at 36,000 miles. The first time someone has to put a new motor in, out of their own pocket at 40k, will be the last time they ever buy that brand. Ford knows this, so do you. There are countless examples of mod motors with 200k+ miles on them that don't leak, don't knock, and don't burn oil. There are even 300k and 400k mod motors out there. And the one common link with every one I have ever seen is following factory recommended service.

And what's even more than that, thicker oil doesn't do jack-s^^t. Seriously, pull your fingers out of your ears and stop going "lalalalala" for a minute. If it did, you would be running gawdamn 90w gear oil in your pan. One layer, one damn layer ONE MOLECULE THICK of oil is all it takes to COMPLETELY protect ANYTHING. It doesn't matter if it's 0w, 5w, or 10000000w. One molecule, ONE! As long as that layer is in place, it doesn't matter what the weight is, what the brand is, whether it's dino or synth, none of that matters.

So let's look at how it all works for a second, shall we? You seem confused. The only thing that needs to happen is for the bearings to "float" on oil and not come into contact with the bearing face during normal operation. In order for that to happen, the oil has to be pressurized, the same way your tires do. Heavier oil has a harder time getting around the bearings, it's also thicker, so your oil pressure will be higher. IF, and only IF your pressure was TOO LOW to begin with, then, well, guess what, heavier weight oil will help. If it's not, that's a big fat NOPE!!! Back in the day of flat-tappet lifters, s^^ty machining, and even worse engineering, heavier oil helped. But in modern rollerized engines, unless there is some problem you are trying to fix with heavier oil (like the bitch is flat wore out), then it helps NOTHING and only HURTS mileage.

The oil weight used MUST MUST MUST match the tolerances which were designed into the engine. Finer tolerances = lower weights. On an engine with closer tolerances, and smaller oil passages, which was DESIGNED to use a lower weight oil, using a heavier weight can be every bit as detrimental as using one which is too light. No, it's not as complicated as it sounds, not to normal people anyway!

And here's an amazing concept that you can probably feel smack you in the head when you read it........

Lower friction equals less resistance, which in turn equals better mileage. Lower friction also equals less wear, which in turn equals longer life.

Now, please step away from the computer and return to your rock and chisel.

 

Your logic isn't very sound.

So you assume people are so stupid as to go back and buy another poor quality vehicle after being burned? There are other options. People know it. Ford knows it.

I do agree, however, that Mr. Ford needs to remove his head from his a**. I think the management practices at the company are the cause of most of their problems.

Yet to think that these folks design and build crappy vehicles in the hopes of selling you another one sooner just doesn't make sense.