Anyone know the steps in changing a coil pack on a 02 F150 4.6L? Not specifics, but for instance, what will I need? I thought it was a relatively simple process, but someone just told me I'm going to need to buy new valve cover gaskets because the valve cover will have to come off. I'm changing one bad coil pack and all 8 plugs to NGK TR55 GP's.

 

The valve cover does NOT need to come off.
The only parts you should need are the plugs, the COP, and plenty of socket extensions.

 

Hi! These aren't mine, I copied from somewhere. Great choice on plugs (think that's the first time I said that here lol) -

I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil On Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my stomach. It makes the job way less painful.

Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it, disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs.

To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.

After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good.

On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in the holes which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall.

Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support....usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them. Seal off the plug chambers with more dielectric grease to repel water and moisture.

I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a few hours.


Goodluck!!

 

Good write up.

 

I thought it was good enough to keep for future refence, whoever wrote it must be pretty damn good at it, 45 minutes for a 5.4L? - I've done a few 5.4's myself and it takes me a couple hours minimum. I don't take any chances and make sure it's done correctly. Take my time with these motors, even when I don't have it...

 

A 1/4 drive 7mm swivel socket and a long locking extension will make your life a lot easier on this job. Locking 3/8" drive extensions are nice to have, too.

 

Hey subnet, I am performing the same operation on the exact same engine. Let me know how it goes for you.

 

i thought in 01 the 4.6 f150's went to COP not coil packs?

 

sure, and thanks for that reference info, I printed it for use in the shop.

 

I know I read that somewhere aswell, maybe they changed over midway ? Nahh , I don't think so ..Woodrow's confused at the moment as well, he started this thread - https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=259400 - He's gota 2002. I tried to explain, don't think it soaked in yet. Maybe they'll figure it out after they do a few of these - .....
LOL

 

thx for clarifying

 

A piece of 3/8's hose makes things a lot easier.put it on the plugs to remove them and start them once you got'em loose. saves you some time.

 

Actually, it was 2000. And to be honest, I wish they hadn't. I get tired of replacing them.