No compression in cylinder #3, after blown plug
#1
No compression in cylinder #3, after blown plug
Ok, within the last 3 weeks I've been trying to get my truck back and running. #3 plug shot out. So, I did what other members from this site have done. I bought the Bigsert kit from Timesert. Install of the insert went well, changed all plugs and COP's #3 and #4. Also, have checked for vaccum leaks, found one i.w.o. pcv valve, 90 degree elbow. Everything else looks good.
So, after borrowing a compression kit from Autozone I find there is none in cylinder #3 compared to 60-80 psi in cylinder #1. Pulled #3 plug out and it has not been fired compared to #1. #3 was also wet from the injector, engine does not burn oil. All other injectors are working, having checked them using the screwdriver technique. Could the valves in the head be bad?
I'm stumped on this problem now and don't know what else to look for. My truck is a 99 with the 5.4L and has 172,000 miles on it. I'm think of just pulling the engine and replacing it. But, if anyone has any more suggestions I can try, please let me know.
Thanks.
So, after borrowing a compression kit from Autozone I find there is none in cylinder #3 compared to 60-80 psi in cylinder #1. Pulled #3 plug out and it has not been fired compared to #1. #3 was also wet from the injector, engine does not burn oil. All other injectors are working, having checked them using the screwdriver technique. Could the valves in the head be bad?
I'm stumped on this problem now and don't know what else to look for. My truck is a 99 with the 5.4L and has 172,000 miles on it. I'm think of just pulling the engine and replacing it. But, if anyone has any more suggestions I can try, please let me know.
Thanks.
#2
Isn't the P1000 code the one that says that all the monitors/testing have not completed? I have heard of trucks coming from the factory like that.
I think it is the one that is hard to clear other than a Superchips programmer of something like that. I have had OBDII's that could not clear that code, and have the understanding that it does not indicate a real big problem, just hard to clear.
I might be wrong, but it might stay with you for awhile...
I think it is the one that is hard to clear other than a Superchips programmer of something like that. I have had OBDII's that could not clear that code, and have the understanding that it does not indicate a real big problem, just hard to clear.
I might be wrong, but it might stay with you for awhile...
#3
If you don't have any compression it can only be.. the timesert job is bad, spark plug cracked, valves not closing or broke, piston has a hole in it, piston rings damaged, crack or hole in the cylinder wall or bad head gasket. Maybe one of these things got damaged when the plug blew. A piece of metal or something could have been left in the cylinder and screwed up the valves, cylinder wall or piston rings.
Last edited by Ultra_Miner; 07-10-2006 at 04:03 PM.
#4
Hmm, I've thought the same Ultra Miner. Except for a bad timesert job, piston was at it's fullest down stroke and cleared the reamer by a couple of inches. I repeatedly check my work and all looked good. I also used plenty of grease and the shop vac.
If valves are bad, can I tell if I take the head cover off?
Does anybody know where I can get a quality crate engine at a good price?
Thanks.
If valves are bad, can I tell if I take the head cover off?
Does anybody know where I can get a quality crate engine at a good price?
Thanks.
#5
Join Date: Dec 1997
Location: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
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60-80 sounds low for the other cylinder. try put about a cap full of engine oil in the plug hole. Check compression. If it goes up then rings are not sealing properly. If the plug was wet from gasoline it may have washed the oil off the cylinders and done some damage to the rings.
Note. Put the oil in the plug hole not all around it. Otherwise that will wash shìt from around the hole into the cylinder.
JMC
Note. Put the oil in the plug hole not all around it. Otherwise that will wash shìt from around the hole into the cylinder.
JMC
#6
are you sure you are using the correct tester adapter. the engine has taper sealing plugs. the washer type wont seal and if thats the adapter your using then you'll get wrong results.
also when reaming the plug hole, you said the piston was at the bottom of the stroke but were the valves open and in the way. did they get damaged.
at work i sometime use a borescope to look inside the cylinder to see if i can see any obvious damage. maybe you can borrow one.
also when reaming the plug hole, you said the piston was at the bottom of the stroke but were the valves open and in the way. did they get damaged.
at work i sometime use a borescope to look inside the cylinder to see if i can see any obvious damage. maybe you can borrow one.
#7
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#8
JMC, I'll give your suggestion a try.
lees99f150, the tester adapter had an o-ring. So, I assume it did seal. And no, I really don't know if my valves were open because I didn't take the head cover off. Skipping that step may have caused damage to the valves! My best bet now is to take the head off and inspect the valves/seats. What a pain!
Before anything I think I'll do the leak down test as Jims91 mentioned.
Thanks.
lees99f150, the tester adapter had an o-ring. So, I assume it did seal. And no, I really don't know if my valves were open because I didn't take the head cover off. Skipping that step may have caused damage to the valves! My best bet now is to take the head off and inspect the valves/seats. What a pain!
Before anything I think I'll do the leak down test as Jims91 mentioned.
Thanks.