* 2001 F-150 5.4L, 40K miles *

Driving about 45mph on Saturday and bang, putt, putt, putt. Sounded like a tractor, anyway, pulled off the road and checked under the hood. Saw the COP on cyl. #4 bouncing. Shut off the truck and got it towed home. Found the COP broken near where it is screwed down and the plug resting nicely in the hole. Didn't need to loosen the plug as it took out all the treads, well the 4 that were holding it in anyway. Of course, it's out of warranty.... Purchased a new COP and tried a chaser with no luck, the threads are there, just below where the plug can reach, so I called time-sert and ordered the Big-sert kit since this appeared to be the best repair method. Anyone ever put a Big-sert insert in cyl. #4? I am just questioning whether I will have enough room to put it in under the cowl cover. According to Time-sert, head removal is not necessary for any cyl. using the Triton Big-Sert repair kit #5553, grease, and suction. Yes, I am a little ticked that Ford will not stand behind or admit their own flaw, but after reading some of the posts, I don't think its worth making a big stink about it, I just need it fixed and don't want to pay some dealer $2800.00 for an a new flawed head. If the installation is fairly easy, I may replace the other 7 to help restore my confidence that I won't loose another while I'm a couple hundred miles away from home. Any questions or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

did you have any symptoms before the plug blew?

 

Has your motor ever overheated?

 

No symptoms, no ticking or any noticeable sound or performance loss. No, the engine never overheated. I change the oil and check the fluids faithfully. The truck is driven mostly short trips except for vacations. The plug blew out within 2 miles from my home on the first ride for the day. I changed the plugs out last year with Denso Iridium's. They were snugged up by hand (no socket wrench) to make sure they did not get cross threaded and they were properly torqued to 13 foot pounds, even though I didn't agree with it. The engine was cold, sat overnight before the install. No antiseize was used (dry install), just di-electric grease for the COP's. Certainly took my time, about 4-5 hours to install them, also tested the ohms on the COP's during the installation (had rough idle, new plugs solved the issue).

 

Forgot to say, I thought it was odd that the computer never flagged a code, because the engine was missing big time after the blowout. I didn't have a chance to hook up the code reader to see if there is a code in there, but I thought it was strange that the service engine light never came on. The only thing I can think of is that it was not missing long enough for the computer to consider it a major problem. I had even started it a couple times after it happened to drive it on and off the trailer.

 

stealthster
Where you at in pa?
If you needed to borrow a time sert kit and are close to Harrisburg then i might be able to help and let you borrow my kit.
I was lucky because #2 blew and it was easy to fix. When you fix yours either replace all the plugs or make sure they are all tight. I replaced mine and found #3 was loose and didn't need a ratchet to loosen it.

 

I am about 2 hours away near Allentown. Too bad I already ordered the kit. I will probably replace them all, then sell the kit to the next unfortunate Triton owner . I also opted to go with the Big-sert kit because they list it as more or less a permanent fix where as the time-sert maybe a permanent fix, however if it blows again, they recommend the Big-sert kit. I called them and talked it over with them before making my decision.

 

That's what i have. I keep it in the console with some tools and an extra insert, just in case.

 

Ahh, you said time-sert, and immediatly thought it was the time-sert kit (they make it so confusing ). Anyway, I appreciate the offer and would have probably taken you up on it if I didn't order it already. Any tips for installation, or is fairly straight forward other than take your time and follow the directions to a T.

 

The instruction are good but i don't think they said to make sure the piston is at the bottom so its out of the way of the tap and the reamer. Just bump the starter and check for clearance with a screwdriver.
Isn't Time sert the company and big sert a type of kit?

 

"Have someone turn the engine over by hand with a 18mm socket from the front of the engine. Turn the engine over until it is going up on the compression stroke. Place your thumb at the top of the sparkplug hole at the same time to block off the air. When you feel the engine compression stop pushing air against your thumb the piston will be top dead center. Turn the engine a little more to be on the down stroke, both valves should be closed at this point, and the piston should be out of the way."

That is taken from the website instructions, although, I'd like to see someone put their thumb over the spark plug hole on the triton engine, unless they mean the top of the well.

Time-sert is the company name, and they sell 2 levels of kits, the standard time-sert kit and the big-sert kit. The standard set is made for the first time repair, the big-sert is made for the previously repaired hole. However, you can go right to the big-sert repair.

 

Got the Big-sert kit today. First impression is that it is very well built and thought out (you can't screw it up, unless your trying). After work, I drilled out the remaining threads, reamed out the hole, and threaded it for the insert. Looks like I will not have to remove the head to complete the repair. I was concerned about getting the tools back into cyl. #4, but they fit. I just could not use the bar handle that came with the kit, so I just put a socket wrench on it. For the reaming process, I used the air ratchet. To do the reaming process by hand would simply take forever. I stopped several times to clean the shavings and re-grease the bits. I stopped for the night because I have to pickup some cleaner to clean out the grease so the thread locktite will take properly and rig up my shopvac hose reducer. I think I will complete this cylinder, and then run for about a 1000 miles, then do the rest on the same head. Give it another 1000 miles, then replace the rest and sell the kit. I do have one question if anyone knows. Do you torque the plugs to the Ford recommend 13 foot lbs, or can you torque them more because of the new steel inserts?

 

Seems like I'm talking to myself, but I'll finish out the thread with the rest of the repair procedure. Repairs almost complete. Cleaned out the cylinder and plug well using an entire can of CRC brake cleaner. A little at a time of course, sprayed it down a tube, then sucked it out with another tube hooked up to the shop vac, repeated till no more filings or grease. Ran the new insert in with the thread locktite. Removed the insert tool and ran the spreader in. Left the spreader in for the night to ensure a good set and keep out anything from the cylinder. Just need to pop the new plug in, then blow out the well tomorrow. Still wondering how much to torque the plug with the new insert. Anyone know?

 

torque it by feel. Snug it up. when i do my plugs i snug them up and back them off and resnug them. this makes sure they seat.
Also after using brakewash in the cylinders you should change the oil and filter because the brakewash will have run by the piston rings in to the oil.

 

lees99f150, Emailed Time-Sert, they say to torque to factory specs. (ie. 13 foot lbs.). Got the plug in tonight, torqued to 13 foot lbs, started her up, no problems . Let it run a little, noticed that it seemed to be running a little rough, but still ok. Shut it off and start checking the torque on the remaining plugs, starting at cylinder #1. Cylinder #1 was perfect, still torqued at 13 foot lbs. Checked cylinder #2, as soon as I pulled the COP out, I knew something was wrong . It was discolored, and had condensation on it. First thought was that I got water in the well. Held the mirror over the well and it steamed up, checked the torque on the plug, their was none, in fact it was barely in. I'm sure if I would have skipped checking them, I would be sitting somewhere by next week and purchasing another COP. It was definitely exhausting through the plug hole. I was able to snug up the plug, the threads were all their, but I didn't trust the threads anymore, I'm sure they were jack hammered. Ended up putting a Big-Sert insert and new plug in (kits a lot easier to install on this cylinder). Started it up, runs perfect, no rough idle, simply purrs . I did not get a chance to check the remainder of the plugs yet, that's tomorrow’s project, but I have made up my mind, I'm putting inserts in all of the cylinders. I only had 5 inserts that came with the kit, so I am going to check the rest and replace the worst and also get #8 out of the way, then order more inserts.