Break-in period before synthetic oil?
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,226
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From: So. Texas
Abe, I assume this is for the 04 that is listed with your name. The Tritons already require a synthetic blend and that is the factory fill. I will also assume that you are wanting to go to a "full" synthetic like Mobil One. The requirements for your engine is that it uses the 5w-20 oils speced either at 153-H or 930 A. M1 has an oil at 0w-20 that meets spec but just barely. The absolute minimum HT/HS rating is 2.6. And that is exactly the rating on the M1. FWIW, the blends are showing the lowest wear metals. You might want to stay with the blends as they are cheap by comparison and do the best job. If you have extended oil changes in mind, stay with Amsoil 5w-30 and get their by-pass system as well. Change intervals with analysis of 25,000 miles are easily obtainable with the Tritons. Should you be entertaining this, please be aware that Amsoil oils do not have the API rating and should you have an oil related failure- you're on your own. Ford does not have to validate your warranty. Oil related failures are rare but they do happen. Hope this answers your question.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: May 2004
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From: Georgia on my mind...
On a brand new, freshly rebuilt engine, yes, you should run conventional oil at first to help seat the rings. On a new vehicle, well, it depends. As Labnerd said, Ford 5W20 is a synthetic blend as it is. Honestly, I'd just run that and change it regularly and forget about it. Too many people get hung up on names and claims, when in reality, any brand with the latest API ratings that's serviced regularly will do the average joe just fine.
Change it regularly with a good filter, document it, and keep on rolling. My 2 cents.
Change it regularly with a good filter, document it, and keep on rolling. My 2 cents.
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Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 45
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From: South Carolina
Thanks guys, that was great info. I change the oil every 3k, but I haven't been picky about which brand I stick with. I switch between 2-3 major oil change stores, and all 3 use different brand oil/filters. But they each tell me that they are putting in the manufacturers recommended oil. I will pay a little more attention now.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 396
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From: Oviedo, FL
I changed mine to Amsoil at approx. 500 miles.
Never had a problem on the last three vehicles.
I like the longer intervals.
But, if you like what you're doing, do it. As long as you follow the program you've laid out, with the intervals that you're ok with you should be ok. 3K changes are great. I would try and stick to at least one brand though. But, all of them will mix, if need be.
Take care,
Merry Christmas
Never had a problem on the last three vehicles.
I like the longer intervals.
But, if you like what you're doing, do it. As long as you follow the program you've laid out, with the intervals that you're ok with you should be ok. 3K changes are great. I would try and stick to at least one brand though. But, all of them will mix, if need be.
Take care,
Merry Christmas
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,278
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From: Seabrook,NH
From Amsoil:
Series 2000 0W-30 that I use:
The 5W-20:
As far as break-in goes they have an answer for that as well:
Frequently Asked Questions
Will AMSOIL Motor Oils void the warranty of a new vehicle?
Absolutely not! Manufacturers’ warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications, for example, SJ/CF. (AMSOIL lubricants meet the current API Service requirements and, thus, are perfectly suited for use in any new vehicle without affecting the validity of the new vehicle warranty.)
Will AMSOIL Motor Oils void the warranty of a new vehicle?
Absolutely not! Manufacturers’ warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications, for example, SJ/CF. (AMSOIL lubricants meet the current API Service requirements and, thus, are perfectly suited for use in any new vehicle without affecting the validity of the new vehicle warranty.)
AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil is Recommended for Applications Requiring the Following Specifications:
API SL, SH, SJ, CF
ILSAC GF-1, GF-2, GF-3
ACEA A-1, A-2, A-3, B-1, B-2
Chrysler MS-6395 H
Ford ESE M2C-153G
GM 4718M, 6094M
US MIL L-46167B
VW 505.00, 501.00
Mercedes Benz AG 226.1
JASO VTW Spec.
API SL, SH, SJ, CF
ILSAC GF-1, GF-2, GF-3
ACEA A-1, A-2, A-3, B-1, B-2
Chrysler MS-6395 H
Ford ESE M2C-153G
GM 4718M, 6094M
US MIL L-46167B
VW 505.00, 501.00
Mercedes Benz AG 226.1
JASO VTW Spec.
The 5W-20:
Meets or exceeds the following specifications for domestic and foreign gasoline engines:
API SL, SJ
ILSAC GF-3, GF-2
Ford WSS-M2C153H
ACEA A1, B1
JASO VTW
API SL, SJ
ILSAC GF-3, GF-2
Ford WSS-M2C153H
ACEA A1, B1
JASO VTW
As far as break-in goes they have an answer for that as well:
Regarding the use of AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils in brand new or rebuilt engines, it is recommended, however not mandatory, that the motor be initially operated with petroleum oil up to its first normal drain interval. The advantages of doing this are as follows.
New engines or engine components generate high wear metals to begin with and generally contain debris from machining and assembly. It is more beneficial to allow these wear metals to collect in an inexpensive motor oil than to circulate throughout the crankcase for extended periods in a synthetic motor oil. By operating the vehicle to its first drain interval with a petroleum oil, these wear metals and manufacturing debris collect in the oil and are then flushed out of the crankcase when drained. This allows for a much cleaner operating environment for the synthetic lubricant.
Within the first miles of operation, if there are any defects in the assembly or workmanship of the engine components, they may be corrected before installing the more expensive synthetic motor oil. Occasionally, rebuilt engines may have re-machined components or materials which can sometimes be mismatched. These problems will develop in a fairly short period of time. If excessive oil consumption, leaks, or any other problem is noted, this should be corrected prior to changing to AMSOIL Synthetic Oil.
New engines or engine components generate high wear metals to begin with and generally contain debris from machining and assembly. It is more beneficial to allow these wear metals to collect in an inexpensive motor oil than to circulate throughout the crankcase for extended periods in a synthetic motor oil. By operating the vehicle to its first drain interval with a petroleum oil, these wear metals and manufacturing debris collect in the oil and are then flushed out of the crankcase when drained. This allows for a much cleaner operating environment for the synthetic lubricant.
Within the first miles of operation, if there are any defects in the assembly or workmanship of the engine components, they may be corrected before installing the more expensive synthetic motor oil. Occasionally, rebuilt engines may have re-machined components or materials which can sometimes be mismatched. These problems will develop in a fairly short period of time. If excessive oil consumption, leaks, or any other problem is noted, this should be corrected prior to changing to AMSOIL Synthetic Oil.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Dec 1997
Posts: 9,417
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From: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
Check the owners manual for your 04. It calls for oil that meets Ford WSS-M2C153H oil spec. The Amsoil 0W20 meets that spec but the 0W30 doesn't. In general if you stick to a name brand with the proper viscosity you will be ok. Find a place you trust and keep going there. If you do your own then find a brand or brands that you like and use them. All the oils can be mixed as long as they meet the spec that Ford calls for. If you are not sure about a brand meeting the Ford spec send them a letter and ask them what spec that their oil meets. Using a letter will require them to write back on their letter head and sign it.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Huntington Beach
0 ingredients oil
look at your oil for the true strength of it, a 0 is 0 at the bottom
of the ingredents it has for your motor to use, amsoil bypass system is just that and under current review for 1 micron,a
molicule of oil is 14 micron and a filter that is bypass is just that
by-pass-ing the filtration....and the double filter is a big blocker at 1 m, and the other element is standard 60 micron and yes
a 0 weight is so thin with detergent it will go through it on the by pass.....yes all you syn userers are but you are still using
low grade oils and still changing 3k intervals,no wonder you
still think 3 k for a change is good.....go to something with strength and environmentally good.
of the ingredents it has for your motor to use, amsoil bypass system is just that and under current review for 1 micron,a
molicule of oil is 14 micron and a filter that is bypass is just that
by-pass-ing the filtration....and the double filter is a big blocker at 1 m, and the other element is standard 60 micron and yes
a 0 weight is so thin with detergent it will go through it on the by pass.....yes all you syn userers are but you are still using
low grade oils and still changing 3k intervals,no wonder you
still think 3 k for a change is good.....go to something with strength and environmentally good.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,278
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From: Seabrook,NH
Changing every 3K is NOT good for the environment beachracer. It uses more resources and adds more to the waste stream. You need to learn more about viscosities as well. Detergent is not used to thin oil. They are used to suspend particulates and dissolve some contaminants. Solvents are not used to thin oil. Solvents would volatilize at engine temps (burn off, evaporate) and you would be back to your original thick base oil. Keep studying. Even the Pure Power website has better info than you are spreading. I can go 12500 with nothing but a filter change. I could keep the same oil for 35000 or more with bypass filtration and oil analysis. Try that with your dino oil. Most dinos can go further than 3K miles as well but the general public has been brainwashed to believe 3000 miles is correct.
Last edited by Norm; Dec 22, 2004 at 04:29 PM.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 6,509
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From: Georgia on my mind...
Most dinos can go further than 3K miles as well but the general public has been brainwashed to believe 3000 miles is correct.
Regular oil changes is one of the cheapest preventive maintenance service you can do.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 396
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From: Oviedo, FL
You wouldn't believe the numbe of cars/tks that pass through my shop with HIGH mileage on the normal Dino oil. I tell them all to change to Amsoil if that is what they want to do.
I had a car in yesterday, 9000 on oil change. Dino oil at that. I called it to their attention, suggesting to go to Amsoil to be safer at these high intervals. Their answer, " I know you're right and I agree, but the COST of Amsoil is too high".
Go figure.....I told them a $3000+ engine must look cheaper to them.
Merry Christmas, and run synthetics.
I had a car in yesterday, 9000 on oil change. Dino oil at that. I called it to their attention, suggesting to go to Amsoil to be safer at these high intervals. Their answer, " I know you're right and I agree, but the COST of Amsoil is too high".
Go figure.....I told them a $3000+ engine must look cheaper to them.
Merry Christmas, and run synthetics.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,278
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From: Seabrook,NH
Good article from Lubes and Greases trade mag. on Change intervals by David McFall.
Not written by Amsoil just got my link there:
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/lng_article/march_lng_new.pdf
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Happy Birthday Jesus.:santa:
Not written by Amsoil just got my link there:
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/lng_article/march_lng_new.pdf
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Happy Birthday Jesus.:santa: