I have been using Mobil-1 5W/30 since about 28k, but I am wondering if it's time to go up? maybe 10W/30, or something to that effect. It uses a little oil, but nothing severe. I'm just thinking out loud, really.,,,,98

Let me ask you guys, PLEASE do not turn this into a "petrochemical engineers vs. Amsoil" thread, or I will unsubscribe from the thread and not look back. Thanks

 

Guess everyone wanted to do a petro engineer vs. amsoil thread, hehe.,,,,98

 

if i was u i would have "upped viscosity a long time ago (100k miles ago) i wouldnt doubt more than necesarry engine wear by now. try 10w30 or 10w40, or if in extremely hot weather, use quaker state's heavyduty full synthetic 20w50. i know its really expensive, but i would guess your engine is worth a heck of a lot more than "5 dollars a quart"

 

DO NOT UP THE VISCOSITY.

Do not go anywhere near 10w anything. God forbid you use a 20w!!! 20w-50 is for Old fashioned engines with loose tolerances.

Stick with what you are doing it would prolly be bad if you changed since you have been doing the right thing and running the same weight and brand for the life of the engine.

only my .02

 

Yeah, I wouldn't do a 20W anything, no worries about that. I agree that was for older style engines. It does tap on cold weather startups if the oil level isn't sitting at full. That started during winter in East Lansing, MI, and has never gone away,,,,98


Anything below 35* and it taps, unless the oil is topped off.

 

I've got 130k on mine and still use the M1 5w30. Wifes 14 year old 4 banger uses the same stuff too. It's got 125k on it.

I tow with it and it gets driven about 50 miles a day. It uses about 1 qt/3000 miles. I change the oil/filter at 6000 miles.

IMO, you would be running the same weight oil even going to the 10w30, as the 5w or 10w only apply when the engine is cold. Once it's reached full temp, it's at the 30.

Since oil is "technically" thicker when it's cold, I feel that the "thinner" oil will flow better and get to necessary areas faster.... I don't know.... I ran some 10w30 in the truck the first time I changed the oil in it, because that's what I've always used and I still had a bunch of it around..... Read the manual and seeing the 5w30 labels everywhere, that's when I performed this very "scientific" experiment....... ha, ha.....

I put a qt of 10w30 dino oil and a qt of 5w30 M1 in the freezer at about 10* or so overnight. Poured out each qt into a jar and tried to see any noticable difference in the flow, but to be honest, could not really tell any difference....... I did notice that the M1 had more oil stick to the sides of the jar then the dino oil however..... That's when I decided to switch to the M1 (@83k miles) and have been using it ever since.

Mitch

 

The guy above obviously has no clue on what oil to run in his engine. I know the book says to use 5w30, but that only applies when the engine is new, and clearences are tighter. I still strongly reccomend the 20w50. It is good oil for my f-250 with about 89k.(the engine in it now has about 26k on it) or you could use 15w40 in cold temperatures, but i prefer 20w50

 

Who would that be? No matter who you meant, that's still pretty harsh. Good luck getting warranty replacement on your engine with 20W/50 in there. Hope you never have a problem with it.,,,,98

 

piperc,

I don't even know how to respond to this one.......

Run whatever oil you want in YOUR truck.........

Why did you lose an engine with only 89k on it?? Were you running the 20w50 in it too??

edit** Just saw your other post with the subject "what viscosity shoud i use with with winter coming on".

Sounds like you don't mind going to 5w30 or 10w30 in that post??? So, I don't know where you are coming up with the deal that "The guy above obviously has no clue on what oil to run in his engine. "

I really like your comment, "and would it hurt to mix it with dura lube?"......

IMO, if you are running Dura Lube, then you are the one without a clue...........

 

I have a 2000 f150 with the 4.6 engine and live in texas. I switched to 10w-30 mobile 1 for summers due to high consumption during highway use. The truck has 89k miles and the heavier oil slowed the consumption considerably. I will switch back to 5w-30 mobile 1 for the winter, but continue to use 10w-30 mobile 1 for summers.

 

98,

The owner's manual doesn't say to switch to thicker oil at 115K so I wouldn't.
I know it doesn't get very cold here in Windsor in the winter but try starting that bïthch when it is -10°F with 20w50. You will quickly switch back to 5w30. I drive the snot out of mine and 5w30 is fine. I was running 10w30 for a while but I went back to synthetic 5w30 and it is still fine.

JMC

 

If you were to put a REAL pressure gauge on your truck, you would be able to answer your question about whether you should switch. If it hold 50-80psi when you are hot, then you don't need to change a thing.

PS: I don't know what new ford engines acceptable pressure is, i would imaging 30-80psi.....

 

the truck we run 20w50 is a 1966 f250 with a 240cu inline 6. (i forgot to mention the date SORRY) the book says to run 20w50, and i can show you. the engine had to be replaced at 66k, because it is a farm truck, and grandpa never shifted gears, thus lugging the engine.

 

the truck we run 20w50 is a 1966 f250 with a 240cu inline 6. (i forgot to mention the date SORRY) the book says to run 20w50, and i can show you. the engine had to be replaced at 66k, because it is a farm truck, and grandpa never shifted gears, thus lugging the engine. but does it hurt to mix dura lube with castrol gtx startup?

 

Aha....1966 with 20W/50 makes sense. Totally different animal than a modular. Dura Lube and many of the other oil additives are in constant investigation by the FTC, for outright lying about their claims. One of them was high in chlorine, while a good quick fix lubricant, will corrode the engine internals in a very short period. I would not touch an oil additive with a ten foot pole, much less a funnel,,,,98