5.4 Loss of power in high temps
#16
#17
I went with the Superchips Programmer #1715 and it did everything automatically. I installed it and just minutes later I could tell a big difference in everything, especially shifting. Then when I got a chance to get into some stop and go traffic where the temperature under the hood could build up, I was even happier, my sluggishness seemed to have disappeared (take in mind I did do the 93 octane performance option). I also have considered that I did put 33'' tires on my truck and I only have 3.55 gears.. But the Superchips programmer made a big difference in the power I would loose in high temperature conditions.
#18
#20
You would have to have the Factory Ford chip in your vehicle and then Ford would have to load new software into it or they might even replace the factory chip. I don't know how ford implements the fix for the TSB. If you at least have the fixed factory chip then you could see if you still have power loss problems when the factory chip has factory settings.
Last edited by temp1; 07-13-2004 at 01:29 PM.
#21
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#22
I have the K&N FIPK II on my '97 5.4L. It's a trade-off. Higher intake temps but better (and more) air flow. On hot stop and go days it's sluggish, but once the airflow picks up it's like night and day. Thought about building a shield between the filter and engine block but was told that the system was designed to operate without it.
I installed the Troyer Performance dual 16" electric fan kit ($385 delivered to my front door). I love it! Feels like my truck lost 1000 lbs. I have a Superchips chip but have taken that out to save a few bucks on San Diego gas (91 octane is $2.35/gal).
Desparado, wat is the DPFE? Where is it located? How much did it cost?
I installed the Troyer Performance dual 16" electric fan kit ($385 delivered to my front door). I love it! Feels like my truck lost 1000 lbs. I have a Superchips chip but have taken that out to save a few bucks on San Diego gas (91 octane is $2.35/gal).
Desparado, wat is the DPFE? Where is it located? How much did it cost?
Last edited by Brian42; 08-01-2004 at 04:28 PM.
#23
dpfe
Differential Pressure Feedback. Located next to the throttle body with two screws. This is a 5 minute replacement. Didn't try to shop around. Should cost $50. I paid $80 at an unfriendly dealer. Move the intake air temp switch to the area between your filter and the air intake hole in the fender well. The electric fans create more turbulence and direct very hot air right at the sensor when it is mounted in the air flow duct. Good luck. It worked for me.
#24
#25
You probably won't see detonation because the computer will retard the timing when the air intake temp gets too high. This retarded timing will sap power and cause engine to run much hotter. There is also an anti-ping sensor which will reduce the timing dramatically when it senses a detonation or ping
#26
That's a hard problem to solve, but in the higher temps here and when the humidity is high I loose power to. I talked to Mike Troyer about this and he suggestedusing a smaller gap on the plugs. I also purchased a Plasma booster, which is a ignition booster that increases the coil pack output.
Hope this helps,
Rick
Hope this helps,
Rick
#27
As I remember back awhile ago, you could put in a resistor in place( or inline) of the intake air sensor, This way the computer wouldnt retard the timing so much. This also got around that 140 'f Air temprature thing as posted in the TSB. It has been about 3 years, but i know it is on this site somewhere. I ran into this problem on my old 2001 SuperCrew after I installed a FIPK. Those temps under the hood get up into the 200'F range. So the first thing that happens at a red light is the engine sucks that down and retards the timing, then after you get moving the air cools down under the hood and all is normal again. Can someone please find that post.
#28
Sluggish 5.4L in hot weather
Out-of-the-box fix:
My 5.4L 2001 Expedition (closed back F150) was always sluggish in FL summer. Thought installing a K&N CAI would help. No joy. Finally got old enough to start throwing lean codes. Fixed the vacuum leaks. Still ran crappy once it got going or sat a long time. Turns out that if the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) exceeds 140 degrees, the PCM will retard the timing. Connected a scanner. IAT was 160 when the ambient temperature was 93; vehicle stationary with A/C on. First problem: K&N relocates the IAT sensor directly in-line with the cooling fan. Stock Ford has is immediately after the MAF(off to the side). Moved the sensor ahead of the heat shield with the filter. Temperature dropped significantly. But, when running/towing, it still reached 160 degrees (93 ambient). In the real world, the IAT, unless malfunctioning, shouldn't read much more than ambient + about 30 degrees F. Replaced IAT sensor; no change. In fact the intake tube temp was 40 degrees less than the PCM was reporting. Pulled up the impedance/temperature values for the sensor. Modeled the settings in excel. In order to "calibrate" my PCM to something close to ambient + 30 (which should stay below 140 in FL). It would require placing a 5K resistor (mil temp range) in line with the sensor. Now the PCM is reading 105 when the ambient is 95 and vehicle stationary. The "numbers" are not linear. So, the error induced by inserting the resistor decreases with lower temperatures. Hope this helps. I've attached the spreadsheet. No guarantee this technique will work for everyone or on vehicles of different year. But, for me, so far so good. This is also a vehicle with 250,000 miles on it.
My 5.4L 2001 Expedition (closed back F150) was always sluggish in FL summer. Thought installing a K&N CAI would help. No joy. Finally got old enough to start throwing lean codes. Fixed the vacuum leaks. Still ran crappy once it got going or sat a long time. Turns out that if the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) exceeds 140 degrees, the PCM will retard the timing. Connected a scanner. IAT was 160 when the ambient temperature was 93; vehicle stationary with A/C on. First problem: K&N relocates the IAT sensor directly in-line with the cooling fan. Stock Ford has is immediately after the MAF(off to the side). Moved the sensor ahead of the heat shield with the filter. Temperature dropped significantly. But, when running/towing, it still reached 160 degrees (93 ambient). In the real world, the IAT, unless malfunctioning, shouldn't read much more than ambient + about 30 degrees F. Replaced IAT sensor; no change. In fact the intake tube temp was 40 degrees less than the PCM was reporting. Pulled up the impedance/temperature values for the sensor. Modeled the settings in excel. In order to "calibrate" my PCM to something close to ambient + 30 (which should stay below 140 in FL). It would require placing a 5K resistor (mil temp range) in line with the sensor. Now the PCM is reading 105 when the ambient is 95 and vehicle stationary. The "numbers" are not linear. So, the error induced by inserting the resistor decreases with lower temperatures. Hope this helps. I've attached the spreadsheet. No guarantee this technique will work for everyone or on vehicles of different year. But, for me, so far so good. This is also a vehicle with 250,000 miles on it.
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#30
5.l
As I remember back awhile ago, you could put in a resistor in place( or inline) of the intake air sensor, This way the computer wouldnt retard the timing so much. This also got around that 140 'f Air temprature thing as posted in the TSB. It has been about 3 years, but i know it is on this site somewhere. I ran into this problem on my old 2001 SuperCrew after I installed a FIPK. Those temps under the hood get up into the 200'F range. So the first thing that happens at a red light is the engine sucks that down and retards the timing, then after you get moving the air cools down under the hood and all is normal again. Can someone please find that post.
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