sorry, that was a mirror site. here's the real one...

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

 

Not to blast anyone or their opinions, as this is my very first post in this forum (although I have been reading posts made here for a couple of years), but have none of you ever heard of Schaeffer's Synthetic?

Allow me to educate you just a little. Schaeffer's was (as far as I know) one of the original synthetic oils. It is made from beeswax, and if I had done more of my homework on the subject, I could tell y'all why that is better than petroleum based oils. However, that is not the biggest redeeming quality of this oil. It contains a chemical compound called Molybdenum Disulfide, which is one of the most slippery substances known to man. Unlike Teflon (PTFE), this compound actually stays suspended in the oil, coating every surface that it touches with its wonderful slipperiness.

Coming from a Farming family, that is all we have ever used in our tractors, Cars & Trucks, all the way down to our yard equipment.

Now, I didn't believe all of my dad's hype about this oil (all my life) until one day, I checked my coolant level in my 93 F-150 302. It was the middle of the summer (in Louisiana, no less), and to my great surprise... I had no discernible coolant level. In my search to find out what the heck was wrong, I discovered a pencil diameter sized hole in my lower coolant hose. Not a rip or tear, but a chunk had been removed, as though I had run over something that tore into that hose. Perhaps that was what had happened, because I had checked my coolant level about 1 week prior, before I had to go through some high weeds down on the farm. My best guess is that I was without coolant in my engine, in the middle of the HOT Louisiana summer, for upwards of one week.

My engine never overheated.

Can you tell me just why that was?

Wait. I'll tell you.

If I had been running regular oil... I would have bought a new engine.


Also, I appreciate the fact that someone (I don't remember your handle right now) mentioned Wix filters several posts up from me. Wix are the absolute best filters made, although there are many that are good... I have used many of them, but the Wix is the best "off the shelf" filter. I can go for about 2500 miles before I can detect much particulate matter in my oil with my bare eyes. That also happens to be my oil change interval.

Here is another juicy tidbit for y'all.

Do an internet search for "Franz" oil Filters.

Later, gators!

Trey Sullivan

 

Well, I like your story (truthfully), but I have issues with this one statement.

Yeah, its more likely your engine would have overheated, but you would have known about it. You would have been stranded, yeah, but I seriously doubt you would have needed a new engine...

Also, you say you go 2500 miles on the wix filters? If you are trying to make them seem oh-so-great...I would hope you mean 25000 :P Since I dont see the point in changing oil at 2500 mile intervals, especially if your oil is a good synthetic and the filter is good.

Edit:
I just use motorcraft filters, and Pennzoil 5w-30 oil...I can usually get a crate of 12 for around $18-20. I change oil at every 3000 miles.

 

I am partial to the Motorcraft filters, (Co. I work for manufactures them at another facility).

My cousin almost lost a high dollar racing engine after installing a Mobile 1 filter. It decreased his oil pressure by 10 lbs. We threw that thing in the garbage after (2) laps and installed a Fram racing filter.

Last, I remember my wife's cousin using a Franz filter in his VW Rabbit. Yes, it was a roll of toilet paper that you inserted in a cannister that was auxillary mounted. He put alot of miles on that Rabbit, using a toilet paper filter, and it still ran good when he sold it.

 

Yes, gearman... from what I understand (and it also happens to make sense), the cheaper the toilet paper, the better, because it is thinner, will pack tighter, and makes a superior oil filter.

Yet another story for all the wonderful folks out there!!!

My best friend's Grandfather was a rep when they (Franz Oil Filters) first came on the scene 25 to 30 years ago, and he told me was that he had to have his dipstick chromed just so he could see his oil.

Every 3000 or so, he would replace the filter media, and add a quart. I don't remember what kind of car he said it was, but I will ask. His testimony was that he drove that car for 200,000+, and he sold it to a good friend who knew about the filter. When he caught up with him a couple of years later, he was still driving the car, and he reported that it was still just as strong as the day he bought it.

He was currently at 400 thousand miles.

Said that it was the best 3000 dollars he ever spent.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot.

That was with conventional oil.

 

I've used nothing but Red Line and an FL820S filter.

My pops uses Mobil 1 and an FL820S filter. He has over 200,000 miles on his 97 Lariat. Still going strong!

 

The only problem that I have the with TP style filters is the capacity of the filter and how often you have to change it.

The capacity deals with the way the oil flows through the filter. The oil flow lengthwise through the roll. Which limits the surface area that can stop the contaminants. Yes it has to travel over 4 inches throught the media, the overall flow will be reduced and over a short period of time you will have less filtering ability. Hence the reason you have to change the element so often.

I would rather use one of the newer types of bypass filters Like Amsoils unit or the oil guard or NTZ filters. They use the princeple of radial flow which increases the surface area of filtation over the TP filters. This will allow you to go long intervals between filter changes.

Here is a picture of the Amsoil filter cut away, you can see the oil enters just like a normal filter flows from the outside of the filter towards the middle then back out the filter to the engine. This is a spin on filter just like a full flow car filter:




Also here is a link for Radial vs axial flow filters
http://www.egreenoil.com/content/radial_filtration.html


Here are some links to the bypass filters that I like:


http://www.ntz-filter.com/index.html


http://www.oilguard.com/

Amsoil Bypass

 

Sorry for my ignorance - whats an "AF1?"

 

AF-1 stands for Air Force One. It is an aftermarket intake setup that really increases power and mileage. I just put one on recently and MAN... what a difference.
Check it out here: http://f150online.motorhaven.com/cus...me.php?cat=203

 

It was very, very common where I lived in northern Minnesota back in the 70's for folks to get 200K out of their engines with conventional oil, regular oil filters, and driving over gravel roads with cold starts down to -30F. Regular 3000 miles oil changes were the key, and a good air filter. I actually think the air filter becomes more important as long as you do regular oil changes, especially on gravel roads. Fram made good filters back then. Now I use a Motorcraft oil filter, which is supposed to be a Purolator Pure One internally. I switched to a K&N air filter, mainly because Fram air filters are crap (I had one partially collapse on me, and they generally look like a sagging breast at 30K miles even if they don't collapse) and I have to pay $25 at the local Ford dealer for a Motorcraft air filter. If I was loaded with money, I would just buy the Motorcraft and forget about cleaning and oiling the K&N. A guy did a test which proved that in real life the flow rate difference between a K&N and paper filter were insignificant. The K&N air filter gets better filtering efficiency after it gets dirty, so frequent cleaning is to be avoided. Tests on brand new filters sometimes has it coming in behind paper filters, but the longer the test is run, the better the K&N performs. Ultrafine limestone or clay dust is where the K&N might not do so good, as it might form a mudlike coating that blocks aitflow quickly, but the reason that a paper filter might do better is that it lets more ultrafine dust through. Sand that is stirred up drops quickly, but clay dust seems to hang in the air forever. It's the worst type of dust I encountered. It gets past filters, rings, and into oil.

 

I use 5w20 and motorcraft filter...it has worked great...get it changed every 5000k or less and ford does a good check over the rigs to see all is working well...have a 3.8 windstar and a 4.6 150 Lariat...

 

Before the synthetic oil commercials during NASCAR began to run and the famous "oil filter study" was posted, nobody gave a damn about oil or oil filters. Now, if you don't use such and such filter or such and such oil, your vehicle is going to die a painful death VERY SOON

I guess people DO believe everything they read and hear AND clever Marketing really does work !!!!!

 

heil hitler!

 

That is also a Hastings oil filter. I am not sure who make Amsoil's filters for them now but I know back in the mid 90s Hastings made them.

 

Ummm, that is the Full Flow Amsoil SDF filters that are made by Hastings/Baldwin.

The By-pass filters are made in-house up in superior. No other company makes a spin-on bypass filter that I'm aware of.

Please try not to confuse by-pass filters from regular FF(full flow) filters.