4.6, ready to kick bucket?
#17
Is you CEL bulb in the dash? I'm guessing it has been removed. Turn the key to run, do not start the engine. The light should be on (normal). If the light is functioning I would drive it a few days and see if it comes on, then pull codes again and repair.
In mean time carefully check all vacuum lines and connections. Spray the wires with a mist of soapy water, if it runs bad/worse then you need wires again.
Gald to hear you found that loose plug before it blew out. This board saved another person from a stressful situation.
In mean time carefully check all vacuum lines and connections. Spray the wires with a mist of soapy water, if it runs bad/worse then you need wires again.
Gald to hear you found that loose plug before it blew out. This board saved another person from a stressful situation.
#18
I changed out the EGR valve about 4 or 5 months ago thinking it would help (and it was the easiest thing to get to), it didn't.
My CEL does light up on pre egnition but it has never came on during operation. Just out of curiousity I pulled the side of the air filter tube with the MAF sensor off the air filter and was looking at it again with the engine running, it seemed to bog down, then rise, over and over, I lightly blew air at the MAF and it stalled, should it stall that easily? I am wondering if I have a bad MAF.
I tried pricing them online but the only place I can find them is through Granelli $$$$ When you say spray wire with soapy water are you talking about all vacuum lines leading to the throttle body? Another thing, could a faulty header or gasket cause any of this? I have noticed funky exhaust smell, and occasionally see puffs of blue coming out of the tail. Any suggestions?
My CEL does light up on pre egnition but it has never came on during operation. Just out of curiousity I pulled the side of the air filter tube with the MAF sensor off the air filter and was looking at it again with the engine running, it seemed to bog down, then rise, over and over, I lightly blew air at the MAF and it stalled, should it stall that easily? I am wondering if I have a bad MAF.
I tried pricing them online but the only place I can find them is through Granelli $$$$ When you say spray wire with soapy water are you talking about all vacuum lines leading to the throttle body? Another thing, could a faulty header or gasket cause any of this? I have noticed funky exhaust smell, and occasionally see puffs of blue coming out of the tail. Any suggestions?
Last edited by Yankee1509; 01-13-2004 at 10:12 PM.
#19
Cleaned IAC, MAF, throttle body and it stopped stalling at red lights but it still idles low (500 to 600rpm), I still notice a "clacking" sound coming from up front, I plan on checking ALL my plugs to make sure they are all seated good, I have heard people on here talking of "piston slap" what is this and how detremental is it to the engine?
#20
I suggest replacing the plugs. My truck was acting wierd while stopped at lights, stop signs, or moving real slow. CEL was not on, no codes other than misfire on cyl 8. I never expected plugs to be the problem since they were less than a year old. So after a few weeks of this little problem, I replaced the plugs. Problem solved. I did not have o2 codes, or the egr code, but the new plugs worked for me, it might help you. Good luck.
#21
#24
I may have misled you, the cat. converts. where cut out and replaced with straight pipes, I changed out my O2 sensor a while back, I was only able to find one (around where the cat. conv. used to be) is there another in the exhaust system ?
I read another thread under engines in which a person had the same probs I have with the stalling at idle and one person who posted says when Ford finnally figured it out (after quite a few trips) it turned out to be a bad fuel system (COMPLETE). Thats alot of $$$$$$$$$$$ and I don't have a warranty.
I read another thread under engines in which a person had the same probs I have with the stalling at idle and one person who posted says when Ford finnally figured it out (after quite a few trips) it turned out to be a bad fuel system (COMPLETE). Thats alot of $$$$$$$$$$$ and I don't have a warranty.
#25
Yankee, wow, you have made some good progress since I last checked this thread.
The clacking sound you mention sounds more like fuel injectors than piston slap. If you are concerned about injectors the best solution is to have them cleaned by a tech. If you want to clean the whole fuel system, exculding the MAF and EGR, run some Schaeffer's Neutra 131 in the gas, and that clacking will go away over time and it will run better when the injectors give an even spray.
The clacking sound you mention sounds more like fuel injectors than piston slap. If you are concerned about injectors the best solution is to have them cleaned by a tech. If you want to clean the whole fuel system, exculding the MAF and EGR, run some Schaeffer's Neutra 131 in the gas, and that clacking will go away over time and it will run better when the injectors give an even spray.
#26
from the factory you had quantity four 02 sensors. two each on each side, one up stream of the cat and one downstream. If you there is only one 02 sensor on your truck then i suppose the guy made other changes as well. You definitely want to clean your maf with either electrical cleaner or brake kleen (it must say on the can "leaves no residue"). You can remove it with a security torx tool and soak the lower quarter inch or so of the maf in brake kleen. If your check engine light has never come on, how did you know to pull the codes that you mentioned in an earlier post? Have you modified the engine in any way? When you cleaned the throttle body, did you shoot the throttle body spray straight into the intake while keeping a finger on the accelerator to keep the rpm's up? I wouldnt necessarily the truck is doomed but i suspect you have more than one problem with your truck. Make sure no vacuum hose leaks; the maf, iac,egr, air filter, fuel filter,throttle body are all clean; plugs and plug wires are in tip top shape and that plugs were correctly gapped. If after all that, i would suspect (in order) fuel injectors, possibly an restricted exhaust (sometimes the cats or mufflers in your case can rot out and collapse internally so that exhaust is obstructed) or maybe even fuel tank cannister as bad fuel tank cannister can cause wierd driveability problems. Bottom line-you may need some pro help but i wouldnt give up your truck as dead in the water. good luck. let us know what works. (also, dont remember the miles on your truck. is tranny fluid and filter in good shape. i agree with the post below, the clacking you hear is more likely fuel injection and very unlikely piston slap (good news)
#27
Will try, where can you get Schaeffers, Seafoam,and SI-1? Autozone, NAPA, or Advance? I also read about the Motorvac treatment from garages, any comments on that?
I read the codes with a reader I bought from Autozone a while back, just curious. I changed from a clutch fan to an electric fan, I spray cleaned and wiped down my MAF, cleaned EGR, replaced IAC, cleaned Throttle body( with engine off, sprayed outside wiped clean outside and just inside gate, I was afraid I would damage the units plastic coating should I have had it running and is TB cleaner safe to shoot in the unit while running?) I have a K&N filter, just cleaned, changed plugs this past weekend, wires seem to be ok, how can you check injectors and how can they produce that racket? My truck has 82,000 miles on it, about two years ago I changed trans oil and filter. I do think someone has taken the bulb out for the CEL it doesn't come on at ignition.
Thanks for all the guidance.
I read the codes with a reader I bought from Autozone a while back, just curious. I changed from a clutch fan to an electric fan, I spray cleaned and wiped down my MAF, cleaned EGR, replaced IAC, cleaned Throttle body( with engine off, sprayed outside wiped clean outside and just inside gate, I was afraid I would damage the units plastic coating should I have had it running and is TB cleaner safe to shoot in the unit while running?) I have a K&N filter, just cleaned, changed plugs this past weekend, wires seem to be ok, how can you check injectors and how can they produce that racket? My truck has 82,000 miles on it, about two years ago I changed trans oil and filter. I do think someone has taken the bulb out for the CEL it doesn't come on at ignition.
Thanks for all the guidance.
Last edited by Yankee1509; 01-21-2004 at 08:11 PM.
#28
Will try, where can you get Schaeffers, Seafoam,and SI-1? Autozone, NAPA, or Advance? I also read about the Motorvac treatment from garages, any comments on that?
Yankee, Schaeffers Amsoil is sold by dealers only. Here is a link with a phone number of a dealer at the top of the screen:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...=1;DaysPrune=2
msparks is an Amsoil dealer in this site.
I think Seafoam is sold off the shelf at parts stores, it's a big seller at boat dealers.
I don't know about Motorvac. 90% of gas treatments are ineffective. They are a solvent that will clean the mud out of your fuel system, but won't touch carbon or the varnish that clogs your injectors. Of those that have either been tested or passed the test of free speach are:
Schaeffer's Neutra 131
Lube Control's Fuel Power
Chevron Techron
BG 44k
Seafoam
Amsoil PI
and the stuff they use in injector cleaning machines.
The three best by a large margin are injector cleaning machines, Neutra, and Fuel Power.
Yankee, Schaeffers Amsoil is sold by dealers only. Here is a link with a phone number of a dealer at the top of the screen:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...=1;DaysPrune=2
msparks is an Amsoil dealer in this site.
I think Seafoam is sold off the shelf at parts stores, it's a big seller at boat dealers.
I don't know about Motorvac. 90% of gas treatments are ineffective. They are a solvent that will clean the mud out of your fuel system, but won't touch carbon or the varnish that clogs your injectors. Of those that have either been tested or passed the test of free speach are:
Schaeffer's Neutra 131
Lube Control's Fuel Power
Chevron Techron
BG 44k
Seafoam
Amsoil PI
and the stuff they use in injector cleaning machines.
The three best by a large margin are injector cleaning machines, Neutra, and Fuel Power.
#29
Thanks for the input, The Motorvac is actually a service that is provided by garages, I read about it somewhere in here, I looked up Motorvac on a web search and have seen what they look like, and read a discription of how it works, it basically uses a ammonia based cleaner and is hooked up inline on your fuel system. It sounds like it inserts the cleaner and pushes and pulls it through the whole shebang while filtering out all the gunk it knocks off. Prices for the service are supposed to range from $160 to $220, I had never heard of it before but I thought about checking into it around where I live. But I thought I would atleast try some of these other products everyone has talked about.
#30
Motorvac, that's what I was calling because injector cleaning machines because I could not think of the name, and there it was right in front of me. Good stuff, the best. I do think it is better to prevent though. Plus you will get better gas milage with clean injectors so the prevention is free.