Amsoil dual remote oil filter - Supercrew 4x4
#32
#33
Looks good. May be the best install I have seen of an AMSoil by-pass filter on an F-150. One thing I can't figure out, and one concern.
Is the bracket above or below the power steering lines, or does your truck not have the power steering cooler? I don't see the lines in the picture.
I expect this truck to be parked into a frozen snow bank some day. What is the distance the filters are above the bottom of the bumper? It looks to be about 3 inches.
Is the bracket above or below the power steering lines, or does your truck not have the power steering cooler? I don't see the lines in the picture.
I expect this truck to be parked into a frozen snow bank some day. What is the distance the filters are above the bottom of the bumper? It looks to be about 3 inches.
#35
Oh ya, that's some heavy duty protection up front.
One more question. Is there room for an oil sampling valve?
One opinion request. What do you think about putting one of these on?
http://www.bmracing.com/products/acc...moControl.html
One more question. Is there room for an oil sampling valve?
One opinion request. What do you think about putting one of these on?
http://www.bmracing.com/products/acc...moControl.html
#37
#38
Originally posted by greencrew
One opinion request. What do you think about putting one of these on?
http://www.bmracing.com/products/acc...moControl.html
One opinion request. What do you think about putting one of these on?
http://www.bmracing.com/products/acc...moControl.html
BTW, the Dual Remote unit has a restrictor in it, that closes when the oil is cold. This prevents oil from going into the by-pass filter. So that all the oil can go to the engine. Then as the oil gets warm/hot, the restrictor opens and begins super filtering the oil.
Also once the oil starts going into the by-pass filter, you will get increased cooling as this filter slowly filters the oil, it will help cool it as well.
#40
Originally posted by MikeF150
Ms... I'm using the Amsoil XL7500 5W20 synthetic .. I don't want to incur additional expense changing it more often - even without the by-pass, Amsoil says 6 months or 7500 miles for just the oil alone.....
Ms... I'm using the Amsoil XL7500 5W20 synthetic .. I don't want to incur additional expense changing it more often - even without the by-pass, Amsoil says 6 months or 7500 miles for just the oil alone.....
But I will tell this, if you check out the product interval guide: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1490.pdf
Go all the way to the bottom of the 2nd page you will see item #6 which reads as follows:
All drain intervals can be extended(with analysis) indefinitely by using AMSOIL By-Pass Filtration and Amsoil Oil Wetted Foam Air Filter.
If you would like my recommendation it would be to do an analysis at 7500 and see where you stand. Then at that time determine if you just need a FF filter change or something. At the very least I would change the filter at the 6 months or 7500. Oil could probably go 20,000+ with that by-pass on.
Good luck with it, I'll be interested in seeing your results.
#41
Originally posted by greencrew
Picture one is clear, I'll order to 90s.
Picture two and three,,, I'll have to go and crawl under my truck.
I like the way the hose ends up going straight back from the by-pass.
See ya, If anyone is looking for me I'll be under my truck.
Picture one is clear, I'll order to 90s.
Picture two and three,,, I'll have to go and crawl under my truck.
I like the way the hose ends up going straight back from the by-pass.
See ya, If anyone is looking for me I'll be under my truck.
Also be sure to check those hoses every once in a while, usually at the filter change, check for leaks, cracks or wearing.
Yes they are high pressure hydraulic type hoses with top quality fittings, but they do wear out, usually after many, many years.
I've got over 2 years on mine and the hoses are in great shape.
#42
Originally posted by MikeF150
Greencrew - yes there was room for an oil-sampling valve - the end opposite of where the hoses come into the bypass unit is just up against a rubber splash skirt (in front of the rubber splash skirt I think it's the steering cooler)
Greencrew - yes there was room for an oil-sampling valve - the end opposite of where the hoses come into the bypass unit is just up against a rubber splash skirt (in front of the rubber splash skirt I think it's the steering cooler)
#43
Originally posted by msparks
BTW, the Dual Remote unit has a restrictor in it, that closes when the oil is cold. This prevents oil from going into the by-pass filter. So that all the oil can go to the engine. Then as the oil gets warm/hot, the restrictor opens and begins super filtering the oil.
BTW, the Dual Remote unit has a restrictor in it, that closes when the oil is cold. This prevents oil from going into the by-pass filter. So that all the oil can go to the engine. Then as the oil gets warm/hot, the restrictor opens and begins super filtering the oil.
#44
Originally posted by msparks
This really is the ultimate location, hoses are kept short, and they have no chance of getting in the way. Also like said above no funny hose routing. Straight back.
This really is the ultimate location, hoses are kept short, and they have no chance of getting in the way. Also like said above no funny hose routing. Straight back.
I'm about 500 mile on this oil change with Auto-RX. I want to run it a bit farther, so I'll be a while. I don't have a digital camera, but I want to take some pictures and develop them on a digital CD. Maybe some day I'll figure out how to upload them.
#45
I put the bracket on today. I'm surprised at how strong the bracket is.
1) put the by-pass on the bracket and picked my spot
2) removed the by-pass and marked the first hole (bottom)
3) drilled that hole and mounted the bracket upside down using that hole
4) drilled the two top holes.
5) flipped the bracket right sit up, installed the three bolts and drilled the last hole
I used a 1/4" bit and used a strong telescoping magnet to insert the bolts through the holes from inside the frame. The nuts are on the bracket side. I think I would like to remove the two top bolts so I can put some washers on first. The holes on the left side of the bracket are straight up from a hole in the frame, and the magnet makes easy work of inserting the bolts.
1) put the by-pass on the bracket and picked my spot
2) removed the by-pass and marked the first hole (bottom)
3) drilled that hole and mounted the bracket upside down using that hole
4) drilled the two top holes.
5) flipped the bracket right sit up, installed the three bolts and drilled the last hole
I used a 1/4" bit and used a strong telescoping magnet to insert the bolts through the holes from inside the frame. The nuts are on the bracket side. I think I would like to remove the two top bolts so I can put some washers on first. The holes on the left side of the bracket are straight up from a hole in the frame, and the magnet makes easy work of inserting the bolts.