I agree with Twisted in the fact that no matter how expensive your synthetic oil is you should and really have to change it at the reg 5-10,000 mi. interval. I've been using Redline products exclusivley for a while now and still change the oil every 5,000mi. Anything past this and you are placing all your trust on a chemical you cannot see. Really, in the grand scheme of things even regular synthetic usage is less expensive than a new engine. To use a cliche, "oil is the cheapest investment."

 

Thank you for your insites. Exactly what wear causing particles are in black coffee? Also what does that have to do with engines???

I would think that an aircraft mechanic, that has been schooled in Oil analysis, and predictive maintenance would be the first person to use Analysis and by-pass filtration in their personal vehicles.

But, just like Doctors that Drink and Smoke, I'm sure there are mechanics that are the same way. I'm trying to be derrogotory, but By-pass filtration is being recommended by some major Diesel engine makers for extended drains and soot reduction.

Now, you want to talk about particles, soot is sub-micronic, and some by-pass filters can reduce soot.

The Amsoil by-pass filter can remove particles as small as 1/10 of a micron.

Also note that I would never blantently recommend just changing filters, you still must do periodic analysis to be sure your oil is still in check.

 

Heck I know folks that can get 200,000 miles on regular oil changes of 3,000


Is that all?? Stuff I'm talking about would really blow your mind, how about 500,000 miles on less than 20 oil changes??

 

Msparks-

I guess I didn't come across as clearly as I thought...I was sleep deprived! The point I was trying to make was that no matter what type of oil you use, regular changes are the most important thing in regards to engine longevity (I guess it's my philosophy...that could be wrong for all I know).

Let me get this straight; you know someone who went 25,000 miles between oilchanges on dino oil? All I have to say is 1) WoW and 2) what brand of oil was he/she using? I want some!

 

Well I wasn 't talking about Dino, specifically Amsoil.

But I think it could be done with Dino as well.

Send Ralf Wood an Email and ask him what was the longest that someone has went without changing the oil
http://www.bypassfilter.com/

Also:
1 million miles on 2 oil drains with conventional oil.

Taken from this site: http://www.gulfcoastfilter.com/1million.htm

 

The thing about using Conventional oil, is that you have to change filtes more often. That is why I recommend the gulf coast filter, since it uses a very cheap filter element--Toilet Paper. Also you can use less expensive dino oil as make-up oil.


Another maker is Franz filters: http://www.wefilterit.com/

These would make most sense with conventional oil


The reason I like the synthetic matched with either the Amsoil By-pass or the Oil Guard is because you can go longer between filter changes, Than with conventional and the TP type by-passes. Though they will still work!!

 

Extended drain intervals are fine for fleets that are running big trucks up and down the highway and the truck is responsible for dleiverying goods that help the profit margin of a company, but for the typical car owner who puts on about 12,000 miles a year, it makes more sense to stay within the 3,000 to 5,000 mile oil change interval. That's only about 3 to 4 oil changes a year and about $25.00 at a quicklube or about $10.00 and less than a half hour of time for the do-it-yourself person. Sure their have been documented facts of some amazing extended drain intervals, but just because one vehicle was fine with it, what would be the results for several vehicles? I prefer not to find out and leave my oil changing to more conventional methods. It isn't really a very high cost in the overall picture of vehicle maintenance.

 

There has been a lot of discussion about whether or not to use synthetic oil in a new engine. Back in the 80s I was a corporate pilot for Mobil Oil and I flew the Synthetic Oil engineer around the country.

Back then his advice was to put at least 5,000 miles on the engine before switching to Mobil 1. In his personal car he ran the oil 10,000 miles and changed the filter at 5,000 miles and added another quart of oil, I never tried this on my vehicles.

My 2003 King Ranch came with Motorcraft 5W 20 Synthetic Blend oil, something that is new, does anyone have any data on the Synthetic blend oil, I saw Mobil has one on the market, in fact Motorcraft oil is Mobil Oil in a different package.

When I change the oil i my truck the first time I'm going to switch to Mobil Synthetic blend 10 W30, I ran my 86 Ranger for 135,000 miles on Mobil 10 W 30 and the engine was clean as new inside when I changed the valve cover gaskets before I sold the truck to a neighbor who is still driving the truck 9 years later.

My 2cents, run whichever oil you feel comfortable with, just as long as you change the oil and filter regularly.

 

in fact Motorcraft oil is Mobil Oil in a different package.

I was under the belief that it was Valvoline and Conoco. I don't think Mobil makes the Motorcraft oil.

 

Correct, the 5W-20 is made by Ashland Oil (Valvoline) and is probably the same as Valvoline's SynBlend.

 

You may be correct that Motorcraft oil is now made by Valvoline.

I was in the Mobil Lube Oil plant in Cicero, Illinois back in the 80s when I worked for Mobil Oil and I saw motorcraft oil in the warehouse beside the Mobil Oil, perhaps Mobil no longer has the contract with Motorcraft.

I stand corrected.

 

Just an FYI to these all of these peopletalking about mileage and clean motors with all of these different oils.

In 1995 I purchased a '91 Crown Vic from a local county during an auction. It was a retired police car (351w ci w/ carb) with 152k miles on it. Included were all of the maint. records. The motor had the intake manifold gasket replaced at around 22k miles. This was the only work ever done to the engine. According to the records it recieved an "LOF" about every 5,000 miles. I called the maint. center for that county and asked what type of oil they used. The answer was Pennsoil.

Anyway, I proceeded to put another 54k miles on this car at which time it developed an oil leak on the right valve cover. I pulled the valve cover off and found very little build-up of anything. I was very shocked at the condition of what I saw. I drove this car for another 8,000 miles. It was then stolen and trashed. I sold it to a friend who just drove it that way (he has never owned a car that ran when he was done with it) for about 10,000 miles. He then put the car in the demolition derby. He ran it out of coolant and overheated the engine. After the demo, he sold it to another friend and he transplanted the engine into his 84 F-150 4x4 which is still running today with close to 300,000 miles on the 351w.

ALL OF THIS WITH DINO OIL!

 

I understand that it is easier to do 3-5K changes.


Extending oil drains or reducing engine wear is not something on everyones mind.

As far as amazing drain intervals that have been documented, well this isn't something that is new. There have been documented extended drain cases for the last 30+ years.

WE ARE PAST THE POINT OF EXPERIMENTING

But Like I keep telling myself, not everyone can be smart. Especially those that have brain washed by the oil manufactures to buy more oil!! I'm sure Chevron would like you to change you oil every 1000 miles if they could get away with it, Right Navi-Man?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by msparks
Well I wasn 't talking about Dino, specifically Amsoil.

But I think it could be done with Dino as well.

After I installed the Frantz bypass filter on my 85 turbo Subaru I changed the oil once. I don't remember the exact details, but I think I made sure I had 3,000 to 5,000 miles when I installed it, and removed it about 130,000 because the hoses were starting to leak at the fittings. Drove it to 142,000.

I ran Valvoline dino and then changed to Castroil dino. The engine ran great, and I would realy have liked to have kept it, but the repairs were more than the value of the car.

 

This to me implies to me that you are
banking on the fact that all you need to
do is filter the oil, but what about
thermal break down? Oil breaks down
from heat be it conventional or synthetic.
I am well aquainted with oil analysis
to monitor engine wear but that is way
too much hassle to save a few bucks on
an oil change too see if my oil is holding
up. When I worked on diesel engines
20 years ago we bought oil in 55 gal.
drums and filters by the case and we
didn't analyze the oil or by-pass filter it
we just changed it. We did minor O/H
at 250,000 miles and majors at around
500,000 miles.