This may be stupid but , how do you change just the filter? Doesn't it all come out through the filter hole?

 

Yeah,to become an Amsoil dealer you have to go thru the ritual initiation;join other Amsoil dealers around an engine block and chant Amsoil facts while pi***ng on the block!

 

Most of the oil is in the oil pan and it says there. The full flow filter is a regular oil filter just remotely located. The bypass filter looks like an ordinary filter, the difference is on the inside.

I haven't changed on yet, but I suppos it much the same as changing a regular oil filter. You grab it, losten it, and the oil in the lines overflows the filter and drips down your sleve.

 

I've used both in my engine, and I've noticed no difference in performance/mileage, etc. Personally, I don't trust any oil past 5,000 miles, so I would not be justified in buying a synthetic oil.

-Flea

 

How much oil gathers in the filter when the truck is just sitting? When you change just the filter, do you add half a quart of oil, or a full quart?

Also, what is the per case of oil for becoming a Preferred Customer from Amsoil? And what is the standard shipping charge?

UPDATE:

I got off my lazy **** and called Amsoil. A case (12 quarts) of 5w20 is normlly $61. The Preffered Customer(PC) price is $45. It costs $10 to join the PC program for 6 months. The shipping charge estimate is $8-$9.

So, $70 normally, $64 as a PC (and $54 after that).

Oil Filters are $10.45 each. Do most of you use the Amsoil filter? If not, what do you use?

 

My Ford Truck98

When you change just the filter you only lose the oil that is in the filter, the rest of the oil stays in the pan. You might lose at the most 1/2 quart.

 

go to: www.bobistheoilguy.com

I believe there are several oil analysis of redline and amsoil. Lots of good info.

 

It's not quite that bad, but when you join the secret order you will be reincarnate in the image of Big "A"

Seriously the preferred customer is just that. You pay a fee to be able to purchase the products at cost.

Also as was said the shipping is based on weight not distance. So it pays to order ahead of time.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I think this thread has benefited so many people. It just goes to show what a great forum this is and what great members it has!

 

I use Mobil one with the Motorcraft filter on my trucks. I have a 2002 Supercrew now and also used it with my 1984 F150 as well. The 1984 was changed over at about 50k miles and no leaks developed Final mileage was at 142k when I sold it. It continues to run extremely well for its new owner.

My oil change schedule is change it twice a year in April & November. I do find the bypass filter concept interesting and am considering adding one to the new truck only to enhance the cool factor. I believe with nomal dino oil and filter the truck engine would have no problems living to 100k+ life. I will stay with the M1 oil as its available locally when I need it.

 

I like your synthetic in April & November plan. I'm going to go that route on my next car which most likely won't have any good place to mount a bypass filter, and takes the regular 5 quarts.

 

What is the big deal with the bypass filters? Are they really beneficial?

 

Only if you plan to keep your truck a long time and if you plan to extend your oil drains.

By-Pass filters can remove more contaminants from the oil than the average full flow filter.

Most by-pass filters can filter to less than 3 microns(full flow is between 20-30 microns)
Detroit diesel did a study and found that most wear is cause by particles in the 5-20 micron range

Most by-pass filters can remove some quantity of water and fuel, keeping the additives to do their job and also keeping viscosity in check.

Most by-pass filters. can remove sludge and varish from the oil, keeping it cleaner.

Most by-pass filters, help keep you oil cooler because they are external from the engine and they slowly filter the oil, which helps in the cooling.

Most by-pass filters can allow you to use the same oil for 100,000 miles in some cases, as long as you use analysis and filter changes.

Not to be partial I have an Amsoil by-pass on my truck, but there are other quality brands as well. I have read/seen good things on the Oil Guard Unit.
http://www.oilguard.com/

 

You'd be surprised, I know several folks that have them on VW Jettas and Golfs. You usually have to go with a single setup, even take a look at the Oil guard, which is a bit smaller than the Amsoil setup. That is if you really want a by-pass system.

I'm getting ready to mount one on my VW, next month.

 

For all who think that synthetics last for
really long intervals between changes it
ain't happen brother. We have been
using synthetic oil for a long time in
aviation and it is a fix not a cure. I rebuild
jet engines and I see what happens to
the oil. I know you aren't driving a jet
but keep readin'. If you drive a lot of
short trips this is hard on the oil and it
will break down quicker and leave
deposits. Well synthetic holds up much
better here. If your a highway driver
than the effects aren't as great. If you
live in exterme temps. hot or cold then
synthetic is better it flows in the cold and
holds up better in the heat, the key here being better not foolproof. As for less
wear, there is less wear with synthetic
oil but it was measured in ten thousandths of an inch over 60,000
miles. Synthetic oil will find leaks if you
have them, it is more slippery but don't
look for big Mpg gains. I have used
synthetic since Mobil 1 came out some
25 or so years ago and ain't seen
none yet. I use the stuff and believe
in it but it gets dirty just like the other and must be changed. Guys say just
change the filter, well when you find
one that will filter coffee back to water
then just change the filter, get the
idea here. I love it, I use it and I
change it about every 5000 miles. The point to all this babble is that it is better and that you must justify wether or not It is worth it to you to
spend the extra cash or not. Synthetic
won't save your engine from wearing
out but it don't hurt either.
P.S. additives like slick 50 and crap aren't worth much either or it would be
added to Jet oils and it ain't and trust me
they are a little more expensive than a
Triton V8.