Take a look at my sig and tell me what I should do next

 

hows your audio? have you put in new gear yet.

 

my audio is stock...I was looking more for performance stuff

 

ASP Pulley

Shift Kit

Headers

75mm mass air w/ 24lb injectors... (to support any other mods you'll need more fuel)

Port your throttle body

PI 2,400/2,600 torque converter... Highly recommended!

I'd say the biggest most felt gain would be the converter... I've felt the difference in a mustang and it's unbelievable. You think you launch good with the 4.10's... haha WRONG! You have the limited slip and 4.10's... might as well put them to good use and install a shift kit and t/c. the t/c is good for .3 in the quarter alone

 

how much would a shift kit cost and what do they do? and how hard to install??

And the tourque converter, how much would that cost and what does it do? and again, how hard is it to install?

Really dumb questions but im intreaged!!!

email if you want.

thanks in advance!!!!

 

Shift kit/Valve body info

Shift Kit=$50.00-$150.00
Valve Body=$200.00-$350.00
Transmission cooler=$50.00-$75.00 (very important with and A/T)
Sonnax Valves=$50.00 (Ford valves wear prematurely)

I'm not versed on torque converters, but you can find info about shift kits and valve body intallations if you search the site under TransGo and LENTECH.

 

I agree with AjRagno.

The tranny cooler should be your #1 priority.

You can land a B&M or Transgo shift kit for about $100.
(fairly simple install- the instructions are good)

The torque converter is gonna be pricey. Honestly, I don't recommend them unless you are going to be seriously drag racing. Even then- the mod is a double-edged sword. Yes, large stall speed increases will significantly help your 1/4 mile E.T., BUT once you are up and rolling, a high stall speed actually hurts your acceleration. Race from a roll against a car that has a high stall converter and you will immediately see what I'm talking about.

They rev, and sound fast. . .but they don't really go as fast as they sound like they're going. But they launch like gangbusters.

------------TALLEYWHACKER, STOP READING HERE---------------

psst- hey fellow automatic brothers. . .I may be letting the cat out of the bag here, but do some reading on how the computers control our transmissions. Most notably - check out Fordchip.com- you may just discover that you don't need that high dollar converter. Buy some traction bars instead. Between the chip and the shift kit, (AND THE TRANNY COOLER!!!) you should see at least .8 drop off your E.T., and you'll see alot of jaws drop when they see you did all this with a 4.2L automatic. Just don't tell Talley, OK? He thinks I'm dragging my feet on the mods.

MMMWWWAAAAAHHHHHHHAAAAAAHHHHHHAAAAAAA!!!!!

 

WrongdayJ:

I see that you ARE going to use Pete's stuff... GREAT! Now I see where you're coming from. He can work miracles, remember, I told you that on the phone once.

Damn, Now that I know this I better get cracking... after all your gonna drop .8 off your time Considering w/ your mods your a 17.5 second truck this will put you to ~ 16.8 - 16.6.

Match that to my estimated 15.4/15.5 and that means your gonna be a quick automatic! I ran 16.8 stock and could've done better due to a learning curve of never driving a 5spd before.

My old truck:

00' 4.2 Automatic XLT
Regular Cab
Styleside
Sport w/ 3.55's

Mods:
Ported throttle body
gutted MAF
29 1/2" Glasspack
airaid Intake
Superchip

And I got spanked by a completely stock 4.2 5spd reg cab sport w/ 3.55's flareside by 3 lengths! I checked his ecu, engine, air filter... ALL was stock.

As I repeat myself, I have proof, times, and EXPERIENCE on my past 2 4.2's. You've only laid down words...

and not to burst your bubble or nothing... You''re still a mid 17 second truck while I'm a good 2 seconds quicker!

... all in good favor, don't be sensitive

 

Oh... and not to mention

the 4r70w/drivetrain takes up 65HP while the 5spd's only take on average 40HP.

I'll always have the upper hand... same vehicle, but I put more power to the wheels

Don't care what you do to the drivetrain...

 

ok, I'm trying to understand torque converters....Say I have a 2,600 rpm converter. Does that mean when I hit the gas, The engine's rpms will immediately jump to 2,600 before the tires start to move?

These things can be confusing!

 

The answer to that is yes and no.

The stall speed of a converter is the maximum speed that the engine half can turn without hydraulic forces making the transmission half turn. It is a vague number. If you just take your foot off the brake and take off from a light as you normally would. . .a 2600 rpm stall would probably never happen. This is because the load is very light and the fluid coupling can move the vehicle at a slower speed. Now. . .same situation only this time you have a line-lock or transbrake installed. The load is very high. The fluid can't move the truck at the slow speeds, so the engine half speeds up. This causes more force to be put into the transmission half. This continues until you reach the stall speed- the point at which the speed of both halves must equalize. Normally, though, the tires break loose long before your actual stall speed is reached. That is why 'power-breaking' isn't really a good measure of stall. Ideally you want your stall speed to equal your engine's rpm where your torque peak is. Lower is better for economy, higher is never acceptable unless you are John Force and like to ride wheelies all the way down the track.

Howstuffworks.com has a pretty good explanation of how torque converters work. . .and they also have really good animated diagrams. Check 'em out.


---J