Hey , muddytrux
looks like you have about the same set up as i have. Except i have the short bed. Your 3.55 LS, was is LS from the factory or did you make the switch or did you add a locker. My 3.55 is a non LS, but i am going to add a locker. Any thoughts about lockers.

 

Talleywhacker dropped me a line & asked me to drop by & take a look at what was being posted here.

The initial task at hand here in RedFlarside2000's original post was needing better performance at high speeds, up to at least 90 mph, from his original post, he wanted more from 60-90 mph.

Gear ratio changes are fine for certain tasks, but as other posters quite correctly mentioned, we also have to take into consideration the power band of the motor.

Drag racing engines have far *narrower* powerbands, and at much higher rpms compared to these F-150 motors, and *that* is why many classes of drag vehicles will use anything from 4.10's on up to 6.17's, to get into that narrower and higher-rpm powerband quickly and keep it there. And yes indeed, the rear gear ratio does need to compliment the gear ratio spread in whatever transmission is being used, to optimize performance *for the task at hand*, and that's an important point.

Yes, a numerically higher gear ratio does in fact provide more torque multiplication, that's very basic math. Not only do numerically higher gears get an engine with a higher-rpm powerband up into that powerband quicker, they also provide additional torque multiplication, absolutely.

While a gear ratio change can do wonders for 60' times with traction, and numerically higher gears will give us more torque multiplication, and you can even sometimes do nice things when analysing the rpms at which you land in a certain gear at a given speed, and match the gear ratio to *that* data, ideally, etc.

However, that still doesn't do anything to actually increase engine power output, and *that* is what is really needed in this situation. More power is what is needed to improve performance at speeds above about 60 mph, which is the task at hand.

Yes, we know, not doing a gear ratio change right off the bat sounds almost like heresy to the drag racers (which includes me), but the task at hand is to improve performance at high speeds, up thru at least 90 mph, and for *that*, more engine power output is absolutely needed.

That can be accomplished by any number of modifications, it's a matter of what is available budget-wise along with just how much more performance is actually required. The vehicle already has a Superchip in it, and I don't remember what all else it has off the top of my head, but assuming it already has the basic Superchip, intake kit & a good cat-back exhaust system, there are still plenty of mods that can be done, from ignition upgrades to electric fans to an underdrive pulley to headers, MAF & throttle body upgrades, ported intake, ported cylinder heads, a better camshaft profile, and the list goes on and on (fuel system upgrades, injectors and then fuel pump, will quickly be required as well). It's a matter of plotting out an appropriate upgrade package and path to fit the budget available and the customer's true needs.

Redflarside2000, if you'd like to give us a call we can go over your situation with you & make some recommendations so you can give it some thought, if you like, & best of luck whatever you decide!

 

I agree that gears will make more of a difference in the 0-60 range than the 60-90 range but I still say they make a difference everywhere.

F = MA(force = mass*acceleration). Likewise A=F/M, so for a constant mass as force increases acceleration increases. Torque is our force here which everyone agrees is being increased through gearing. Thus acceleration is also increased through gearing. That acceleration increase doesn't just stop because you've reached a certain speed. In every gear, at every RPM you get increased acceleration through gearing.

Now unfortunatly we don't live in this perfect world that these physics equations live in. We had to deal with things such as friction and drag that affect our acceleration also. And it might be some or almost all of the positive effects from gearing are negated because it puts us in a worse RPM range as drag increases with speed, but thusfar I haven't experienced that. My truck accerlerates better from 0-60, 60-90, 40-80, etc. with the 4.30s versus the 3.55s. Would it accelerate better at higher speeds with more HP versus gearing? I'm sure it would given enough HP. After all an increase in HP is simply an increase in torque at the top of your powerband.

 

Wow i didnt mean to start a big forum on this one......

I will have to contact Mike T on the this one, I just noticed that thease truck kind of loose it from a 60-90 get up, i understand the gear changing aspect, well its in my head and makes since until i try to explain it anyways...

Ill also have to keep my eye on wrongdayJ too, he sounds like he has some good stuff up his sleeve.

The mods that most interest me right now are the Of course the 4:10's, and then going to a under drive pulley 25% i think?!? and then after that i think i will have to some traction bars or a rear sway bar, i have the front that came with it, but friends say that it will help alot more to do the rear also, and then maybe some nitris gas shocks too, so ok sure lets try it. After that probably do a locker box or something.

But as far as the 60-90 i think thease mods will help out in this areas as well as the 0-60 also, i hope any ways, it makes since, for the most part, well at least it doesnt sond like any of thease will hurt it anyways...

Well just have to wait and see.....

 

Mike,

Thanks, I knew there was something I liked about you. By the way the electric fans are working great since the second controller has been installed.

 

Hey fdpike,
My LS is factory. It's definitely better than an open diff, but I'd have to say I'd prefer to have a locker, preferably a selectable locker (for towing) like an ARB, Eaton E-locker, or an OX locker. While the LS has kept me from getting stuck, it takes quite a bit of wheel spin to get it to transfer power. since I have an ext. cab and a long bed, the rear end is VERY light. I upped the tire size to 265s in order to cut down on the peeling out and severe wheel hop, but I still get an unintentional "chirp" quite often. It's down right scary crossing four lanes of traffic if the tires won't grip, and one has to spin a bunch in order to get the power over to the other one.

all this talk about HP Vs. torque got me curious, so I went and did some digging. I found a great explanation on a Vette sitehere

It basically confirms everything that has already been said, but I learned a bit from reading it.

 

I guess no one else would refer the post to him so he can set things straight

 

Talley,

Lucky you, that would make you The One!

 

Nah, I just knew Mike could explain things in a NON arguementive way...


....something I don't know how to do

 

Hey muddytrux, I see we are kind of close. Northern KY here next to Cincinnati . What do you tow with your truck. Also on a 5sp what does the tow package consist of. I think mine has it but I am not sure.

 

fdpike,
your practically a neighbor, I'm just on the north side of Dayton.

as far as I know the towing package on my truck is just a class III hitch, a 7-pin connector, and suposedly heavy duty shocks and battery.

It was a lease return, so I don't know all the packages on it, but basically, it's an xlt ext. cab LB with a 3.55 LS rear end, the standard 60/40 bench front and rear, am/fm/6-disc changer, tilt and power steering/breaks/windows/locks. remote entry/passive alarm. all with the 4.2 and a manual. the only thing it didn't have that i wanted is 4 wheel drive. but that's what my Bronco II is for. which is also what I occationally tow. I also tow a tent camper, but anything can do that. I was really supprised at how well it does pulling the Bronco though.

 

Mine is a lease return also. I have the step bumper with a ball on it. I think it is considered a class III. There is a seven pin connector.

I wonder if there is any code on the door jam that would tell if it had the "tow package"

My rear end is a 3.55 non L/S, but I am having a powertrax no-slip traction system installed.

Mine is an XLT ext cab short bed. My int is just like yours but no alarm and no CD changer.

Is the LED readout on your HU blue. If you ever take that out I would be interested in buying it.