Ya think they could have found a more difficult placement for the regulator?

I did pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator. I didn't see, feel, or smell any gas. I also hooked up a piece of spare vacuum line and gave it a good suck......bone dry.

With the pressure gauge hooked up pressure was around 34ish WITH the vacuum line connected. With the vacuum line disconnected pressure increased to 42.

I took it for a spin just to see if it's run better without the line hooked up.......nope.

Overall it seems like day by day the problem is getting worse. Especially on a incline. Maybe because it just doesn't have any power. My driveway is angled slightly up on the way out. I have to stop before pulling out onto the road. It stalled this morning and took about ten tries to get it started again. Almost gave up and was going to push it back down the drive. I don't dare pull a boat out with it....no power. The last time I tried that I had to unhook the trailer and go get my other truck.....

After the stall this morning I've had it. At this point I'm going to have to park the truck until I can get the problem solved. It's useless.

 

I hate to beat a dead horse, but are you absolutely positive you have the right wires on the right coil terminals?




4-6-5
3-2-1

 

Yes....the wires are correct. I've triple checked and checked again.

I found something interesting. I'm on an island so we have to make do...including my mechanic.

I pulled a spark plug to see what he put in. They're AC Delco R44LTSM gapped at .035. That's not the proper plug or gap. ^%*%!!

I double checked the MAF. One of the few parts I did not install myself. The original screws we in it. One with a head covered in epoxy with no sign of wear on the sides from it being removed by pliers or vise grip. The other screw was hex with a center pin. I drilled the pin and got the screw out and the other with a vise grip. Point is....the MAF was not changed. You'll not find the proper cleaner here on the island. I did clean it with rubbing alcohol per a youtube video, no improvement.

Guess I'll order a new MAF and plugs. There should be a plane coming in from the states next week. In the meantime I'll regap the plugs and see if I can get it running better until parts come.

 

If you are ordering parts from the mainland, order Motorcraft if you can. If you can't get Motorcraft plugs, get NGK. Stay away from Bosch and Autolite. I don't know what to say about those Bosch wires and MSD coil, all I've ever used on my 4.2 is Motorcraft.

Those AC plugs are totally wrong, they aren't even platinum, which is what you need.

Aftermarket MAF is a crapshoot, but would probably be better than what you have. If you can't find proper cleaner, any electrical contact cleaner will work, as long as it's the non-residue type. You have to be really careful touching the MAF with anything, including a soft cotton swab, it's real easy to break the wire.

Go to rockauto.com and load up a cart - see if they will ship to you. Good chance they will.

 

I had to overnight the parts to my carrier for Saturday delivery to the island.....Amazon. The MAF is a Cardone, it was my only option. The others were China made with very bad reviews. The plugs are Iridium Denso with excellent reviews, high quality plug. Should be, seven bucks each!

I'll let you know how it goes. We'll see. I sure miss the old carbureted motors with a set of points.

 

Motorcraft Motorcraft Motorcraft! It has been said several times in the thread and I'll say it again. These engines are VERY picky when it comes to ignition. They only like Motorcraft. I've ran Bosch plugs and my truck would run like crap until you put in Motorcrafts. SP-504s are what you need. $3 each and will run laps around those $7 plugs.

 

Sorry, but Denso Iridium IT-16's are the exception here - they are an excellent plug and if gapped and installed properly (with proper dielectric use), will not be giving any ignition grief.

http://densoiridium.com/installationguide.php

 

Agree with MGD. After all, those are the plugs Troyer sold with his ignition upgrade kits.

 

Well....the verdict is in. I installed the new plugs and MAF....along with just about everything else possible. Absolutely no improvement and it's not kicking out any codes.

I was hoping someone here would talk me out of checking the timing for a jumped linked. I don't see any other options. With no codes and it running like garbage I suppose it's something mechanical. I do know that the timing chain can get stretched and jump on a high mileage motor. I had an old 65 Rambler do that to me once and a POS Vega with a rubber belt.

You wouldn't know it but I've rebuilt a few motors and have been tinkering with motors all my life. I never found one I couldn't fix.....until now.

 

Too bad you don't have access to a high end scanner (and someone who knows how to use it).

 

Yeah....being stuck on this island makes things harder than they should be. A 7-11 on the island would be like having a Super Walmart here.

I have one last question. Could it be a problem with the main computer brain?

 

I suppose it's possible - but a high end scanner operated by an experienced tech would be needed to check that.

 

just a thought to try
you said it ran then started to run badly after stepping on the brakes

try disconecting the vacume hose running to the brake booster , plug the hose and see if that helps

if so you have a vacume leak in the brake booster

 

Make sure the air intake is not leaking between the MAF and the throttle body.

check the compression

 

I did plug the brake booster vacuum. No improvement.

No leaks between throttle body and MAF.

Compression as follows...#1-195 psi, #2 - 200psi, #3 - 190 psi, #4 - 195 psi, #5 - 205 psi, #6 - 190 psi. No need for wet test, everything is good. Not bad for a motor with 270K.

I would rather not rip the motor down to the timing chain only to find that it didn't jump a link. I'm running out of options....someone please talk me out of it. The part should be arriving by plane this evening.