My 97 f150 v6 intake manifold runner control valves are stuck open in banks 1 and 2. Has anybody with this motor fixed this problem themself??? I have the tools and the ability to fix this myself. I just have no idea where to start to what im really looking for. I also need to know if I can diagnose what is causing the valves to stay open without taking the upper intake manifold off. Any information and advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

The clips and plastic grommets can come off. There are 2 wires, like the old carburator linkages, that fall out. This is sorta common. If you take a flashlight and a mirror you might be able to see if the rods have fallen off (it's located between the intake plenum and the firewall). If the arms are still connected then you may have other issues and should do more research.

If you are lucky, patient, and have fingers that will bend backwards and sideways you can fix it without taking anything off. Most of us aren't built that way though.

Do you have a check engine light on? if so what are the codes? glc had his isolator bolts go bad and was getting the code for intake manifold runner being stuck also.

This info applies to having the plastic plenum, so if yours is cast aluminum .........then I'm full of beans.

Good luck

 

Thanks for the info! I do think my plenium is cast aluminum though. I'm probably just gunna take it in and have it diagnosed then fix it my self. Ford said they want $1200 to fix and i was quick to say no thanks haha.

 

That's the ONLY code I had when I needed plenum gaskets and isolator bolts - IMRC stuck open. Only other symptoms I had were it was running just a bit rough and the gas mileage sucked. My IMRC's were fine.

 

That sounds like the symptoms I an having. It idles rough when it's in drive. Thanks for the info!

 

I fixed mine myself several years ago after pulling the code. It was the passenger side activator arm that had fallen out because the plastic bushing/clip broke. By searching online I found some pics of the arm/linkage, then with an inspection mirror saw them on my 2000 F-150 V6. I picked up a couple of bushings (in case I lost one, which I did) and after removing the box below the starter relay to get some room, and wrapping my left arm with duct tape, I stuck it back in there and got it done "blind" after about an hour, with two fingers, and a ton of patience and determination. It was NOT easy ;o)

I almost gave up a few times, but after a while I got to know what I was feeling, and yes, I think I did bend a couple fingers backwards. I had to remove the remains of the broken clip, then get the new bushing on the little arm, then clipped in place on the lever. I'd been quoted a minimum of $600 by the dealer, saying the intake manifold would have to come off, so that was my inspiration to keep trying. So for $6, and some bruises and cuts on my arm, I did it!

BTW, thinking back... I think I was trying to get the bushing onto the arm first, then push it into the lever's hole (which wouldn't work), but eventually put the bushing into the lever's hole, then pushed the arm into it. The hardest part is trying to get enough leverage to push the arm through the bushing, with only two fingers in a very odd position.

The driver side arm should be much easier to get to.

 

I'm getting codes for both runners stuck open and lean codes, checked both the arms and they're still attached. Checked for vacuum and there's none. Traced the line back to a valve on the passengers side of the intake but I can't find any info on this valve. Does anyone know what it is or what it's purpose is? Why doesn't the vacuum just go directly to the actuators?

 

The IMRC is computer/vac controlled. It changes the air flow at higher RPM's.

If you are getting both IMRC and lean codes then you probably have a major vac leak. I'll make an assumption that you have the composite plenum, and probably need the isolator bolts and new gaskets. ONLY USE THE FORD ISOLATOR BOLTS. They have a new compound that doesn't get hard and brittle.

Good luck.

It could be both though, do an inspection to see if the arms are still attached.

 

It's a 98 F150, it has the vacuum operated valves at the back of the manifold. I'm thinking the lean code is because the IMRC valves are staying open, allowing more air then the ecu is alloting for, but I'm not sure if that only makes sence in my head.

I have 22 inches of vacuum at the nipple at the side of the upper manifold, but none at the valves themselves.

 

You won't have any vac at the IMRC until it reaches about 2500-3000 RPM, and I think it has to be under a load also. If the IMRC is truly stuck open then yes it could be the cause for the lean code. However if you have unmetered air after the MAF (A.K.A. vac leak) it can also throw the IMRC code.

Go back and see what glc wrote in this thread about his IMRC issue. You may have the same thing.

BTW is your intake plenum aluminum or composite? If it's aluminum then it can be a bad gasket, I think the 98's were known for this. If it is composite then you're probably looking at isolator bolts.

 

It's an aluminum plenum.

The rest position for the IMRC (with no vacuum) is open, therefore they need to get vacuum at idle in order to close. At 3500rpm under load, the vacuum is decreased, opening the valves back up. I'm getting no vacuum to the valves at idle, putting them at the rest position which is open.

All the gaskets are brand new.

 

Then that would point to a vac leak, I would think.

Can you apply vac to the IMRC and get it to move? If so then start checking ALL the vac lines and fittings for cracks or splits. That would be much easier than digging into the IMRC.
it would seem to me.

 

As I stated earlier
I know I'm having a vacuum issue. I get vacuum to this valve that I was trying to find the name of, but not out. I was mainly looking for info on what this valve is called and what it's purpose is because it's apparently not working. Both of the vacuum actuators on the back of the manifold are brand new because the previous owner broke them and thought JB weld would be a good fix.

 

I'm poking in the dark here with you a little. Just went out and looked at my 03, the valve you are talking about has an electrical connection too? If so that valve may be your issue, I'm pretty sure it is controlled by the PCM once all the parameters are reached. I know haynes has diddley jack on the IMRC so when I get some time I can do a little more research and maybe be able to help you. Maybe someone else will chime in here soon.

That and the JB-Weld kinda scares me.

 

There is a squat pot of info in the Ford Manual for testing the IMRC. Here is just a piece to see if it can point you in the right direction. Hope it helps.

41) Check IMRC Actuator DTC P1512, P1513, P1516 and P1517 indicates IMRC plates are stuck
open. Possible causes are as follows:

Broken or restricted vacuum hoses.

IMRC circuit open.

IMRC circuit shorted to ground or VREF.

SIG RTN circuit open.

Faulty IMRC module.

Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
For vacuum operated systems, start engine and allow to idle for 20 seconds. Connect scan tester to Data
Link Connector (DLC). Turn ignition on. Using scan tester, access IMRCM PID and IMRC2M PID (if
applicable). Manually rotate IMRC levers. If PID voltage is 1.0 volts or more as levers are rotated, go to
step 47). If PID voltage is not as specified, go to next step.

I think the bold one is the part you are refering to.