I have a 2000 manual 6-cyl. About a week ago, while driving my power started to just go away. It was night time and the headlights started to dim and the dash did as well. I went and purchased a new battery the next day and put it in. When i installed the battery, the red battery light on the dash cluster was on. This made me go and get the alternator tested. The alternator was bad. I replaced the alternator and tried again. Everything was fine for about 12 hours. That night the power died again. Today i went to another shop and had the alternator tested and the battery charged. Ther both checked out fine on the bench test but the alternator fails the test while installed in the vehicle. The guy at the shop says i should test the starter since electrically they are all connected. haven't done that yet. Any suggestions? PLEASE HELP!?!

 

i dont know what the problem could be.. but to start.. make sure all your ground cables are connected real good

 

Make sure the wire going to the alternator is tight and free of corrosion. Also, check your starter wires for tightness and cleanliness. Make sure all fuses are good, and check all ground wires.

 

I agree with Peacemaker, also the grounds on the solinoid, the wires on the starter, and make sure that none of the wires have rubbed thru and are shorting out on the frame or the starter or engine.

 

I have tried checking all the wires, had the starter tested, replaced the alternator again, recharged battery again, and I even tried to find out if the voltage regulator was bad but found out the regulator is located inside the alternator in my model(so says the auto parts store). Now while the engine is not running and the key is turned to the on position there is a clicking noise as if a relay is trying kick on and off. Everytime it clicks the ABS light comes on and goes off and the temp and direction indicator in the headboard is blinking as well. It's like an error code.

 

Hmm, that's a tough one. I thought the voltage regulator is located on the firewall right behind the intake manifold over towards the passenger's side?

Also, there should be a fusable link on the positive terminal of your battery (I think). You might want to check into that.

If you're not comfortable working on it yourself, I'd take it to a mechanic or the dealer (gulp!) and have the problem diagnosed and repaired.

 

thanks peacemaker, I told that idiot at the parts store it was on the firewall because i see the regulator on the firewall and it has the wires from the alternator, battery, and the starter running to it with two screws on opposite sides of each other. I just wasn't sure if that was it or not. I am trying to find out if there is a way to test it before replacing it. ($89.00)

 

im not the smartest 18 year old around but i have had my share of probs. with my trucks, and it sounds like to me with it being a newer model, like you said and error code, if you havent already hooked it up to a diagnostics programmer, you might want to try that. if thats not it sounds like one heck of an electrical malfunction, AWOL

 

Did you get it fixed? If not, check that alternator wire from end to end. And check the starter wires for corrosion.

 

There is nothing that a scan tool can do to help isolate a charging system fault. The correct diagnostic tools are a meter, the schematic, and a basic understanding of how the circuit works.

The regulator is internal to the alternator, not externally mounted. You are likely seeing the megafuse block and starter relay under that plastic cover.

Have you checked fuse F11 (20A) in the underhood fusebox? It supplies feedback into the electronic regulator in the alternator. If that feedback circuit is open, the alternator will not provide any output power.

Steve

 

Thanks, the f11 fuse under the hood was blown. I am changing it now and hopefully that will fix the problem.