Well the spark plud thread started mentioning other forms of maintenance I realized I have a bunch to do. https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=252433

I've been slacking off quite a bit since I've been real busy with school, but I am going to take a day or two and do everything I can. My truck is a 2002 at 65K, what all needs to be done?

I was planning on:
Breaks
Plugs/wires
Fuel filter
Oil
Transmission fluid
Coolant
Differential
Clean K&N

Anything else?

How hard is it to drain the transmission and replace the fluid? If it's an absolute PITA I'll probably stick it in the shop, but I'd prefer not to if it's doable.

What about draining/flushing the coolant?

Read differential? Does this need to be done?

Where can I dispose the fluids (transmission, differential, coolant), can I just drop them off with the oil?

I planning to redo the exhaust since the 'nipple' welds on the magnaflow broke off. I just figured I'd buy a new muffler and redo the exhaust from the muffler back. Right now I have duals out the back, but was thinking something different. I was leaning towards just having the exhaust tucked and now showing. Anyone have any input or other options (pictures are always great)? Any particular muffler that you recommend (nothing that's going to break the bank)?

Thanks,
-Chris

 

i remember my manual tranny required a suction gun to completely drain...you may be able to jack the truck strtegically to avoid leaving extra fluid in trans when changing. i added my Redline ATF to the tranny with a piece of 6 ft. clear pvc tubing attached to a funnel (lol..looked like a beer bong).

there are a few ways to doing this job and they all involve refilling to the bottom of the top drain hole on the tranny.

 

If you have the manual tranny, yes it is a pita. I've used a clear hose with a cap at the end that screws onto the oil bottle. It works, but you have to get up under there and manuever the bottle at just the right angle to get it all to pour in. Imagine me, 5'10", 275lb guy under there trying to do that. I've done it three times. So I say it's very doable. A pump makes it 100x's easier.

As for changing coolant, Drain the old stuff out. After you drain, flush the radiator, engine, and hoses, with a water hose several times (Don't let it run dry, it can mess stuff up) until it pours out clear. When it does, close your drain (be careful it's plastic) and fill the radiator through the fill reservior to the "full cold mark" with a 50/50 mix of pre-mixed antifreeze. Let it idle for awhile and check for leaks. Now, there will be a little air trapped in the cooling system. This can be bad because it overheats the engine.

What I do to get rid of the air in the cooling system is drive down the road until it overheats a little (not too close to the red mark), but close. Pull over, shut off the truck, let it sit two or three minutes, then use a thick towel or rag to protect your hand (VERY IMPORTANT) and crack the pressure cap on the fill reservior. Listen for the air to escape, and tighten fill cap. Repeat this until it doesn't overheat anymore. That's the way I do it and have had no problems. My coolant is still clean after two years after the drain/flush.

I think the rear diff doesn't need to be done until 100k miles. It uses 75W-140 synthetic diff gear oil. Unless you have repeatedly submerged it under water it should be fine unless you have 100k miles on it. At least check the level. My rear pinion seal broke, so I had to replace most of mine.

Most big chain parts stores will take your old oil, coolant, diff oil, etc. Some charge you, but most don't.

A typical flowmaster 40 or 50 series is a good muffler that won't break the bank. If you want a little better quality, at a little higher price, go with a magnaflow 14" or 18" muffler.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the input; it is definitely a help! I'll stick to the plug this weekend and go from there when I get more free time. I was planning to do most of it this weekend, but my free time just keeps getting filled up.

Well, I've all ready run into one problem. The head of the bolt on the oil pan is stripped. I've been bring it to Wal-Mart lately to get the oil changed, and when I go to change it today I find that the bolt was stripped. I thought I could get enough grab on it to get the plug out, but I was wrong (possibly over torqued?). What is the best way to get this out?

 

Look at this: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/searc...&gobutton.y=17

Hope that helps.

The oil plug is 1/2" in size. And I believe it's either 12mm or 14mm in metric. So you'd need the set in the red plastic box in the middle. I'm not 100% sure on that, so you might get another opinion or two before you buy anything.

 

That’s the kit I was looking at, but was wondering how well it would work on an over tightened bolt. I was afraid if I got one of those and bolt was too tight it may do more damage, but either way I can't get it off now so does it really matter? Guess when I get it off I’ll install one of the Fumoto valves to make life easier. I thought I used to use a 12mm to get it off, but the 12 wouldn't fit today (even tried a mallet) so I used the 13mm.

Thanks for the help,

 

Buy the kit with the smaller 11mm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm sizes. You couldn't mess the bolt head up any worse than it is already. When those things dig into the bolt, they'll turn it. Just use quick swift jerks to get it to loosen up. I'm pretty sure that'll take care of your problem. The Fumoto drain valve is a good idea. I need one of those too.

 

Try a pair of vice grips.And about the drain valve,bad idea,IMO.I've read several post' about how they strip out.Also,you will never get all the oil out like you would with just a plug.And,what "if" you run over something and it breaks the valve? Can we say "new engine"?

 

I'll stop by Sears tomorrow and give it a shot. Where can I pick up a replacement plug for the time being? Any auto parts store I would assume?

Do you have any links about the failing drain plugs? I searched a bit, but most of what I came up with was pretty positive. I ordered one an hour or so ago, but won't even have a chance to install it until the next oil change.

Any particular wires I should get for the spark plugs? I was planning to go with the finewire plugs, do I have to gap them or do they come gapped?

And just for fun...

Thanks again for all the help and input,

 

You can get a oil drain plug from your local Ford dealer for about $3-$4.
Go to this website;
www.bobistheoilguy.com
There are a few posts about it there.
Motorcraft or Autolite Pro Series wires.
And yes,the plugs need to be gapped at .054". :santa:

 

Thanks for the link.

Are the plugs and wires usually a lot more at the dealership?

 

My truck calls for part #s;
Motorcraft plugs- AGSF 42FM
Motorcraft wires- WR-5702
I have a friend in parts at my local dealer.He sold me the plugs for $3.00 each and the wires for $40.00.

 

I didn't gap my finewire plugs. I just put them in and it runs fine. So, they come gapped pretty close to spec out of the box. If you do gap them, whatever you do, don't use a ring gapper. It'll break the finewire electrode.

BlueOvalFitter told me there's another type of gapper that will not bend the + electrode. I forgot what they're called. Maybe he'll stop back by and tell you. Or just look up my sparkplug and wires thread. It should be in there.

And yes, dealerships usually overcharge compared to a big-chain parts store. I got my motorcraft finewire plugs at O'reilly's ($24 + tax), and Autolite Professional Series wires at Advance Auto ($46 + tax).

 

Picked up the plugs and asked several people about gapping and they told me not to as they should be gapped all ready. The motorcraft wires were $90 so I told the dealer to keep them, and went with some aftermarkets for $45.

I picked up the stripped bolt remover from Sears, but bought the kit that only went up to 13mm and of course I need the 14mm. So I'm waiting for the GF, she’s going to stop by Sears since it’s on the way over here (its rush hour right now and no way am I going to that side of town).

So, not I'm left with drinking beer and waiting for the engine to cool. Guess I learned my lesson about letting other people work on my truck.

On a side note I got the truck washed last night and I must say it still looks pretty good.

 

Ha. I just spent three or four hours cleaning mine up today, and I'm still not finished. I'm doing the interior tommorrow hopefully.

Good luck with your truck man.