Hello, I just spent the last hour trying to get the LAST bolt out of the lower intake manifold (Drivers side rear of course).
Lying on my stomach across that beautiful 4.2 V6.

I love the Haynes manual "cover intake so debris does not fall into the runners" or what ever it says. Why don't they just say cover it you idiot so the shorter bolts don't fall into it when the socket becomes a devil magnet and pulls the bolt out then releases it at the proper (improper?) time and it clinks down into the manifold? (there, enough venting)

Do I need to remove the blasted servo behind there to get at that bolt or what?
And how pray tell do you properly torque that son-of-a-gun with the inch pound torque wrench when it comes time to put it together?

Good thing I have Turkey weekend to do this and I am taking my time.
Well Hope every one has a good Thanksgiving, and eats lots.
Hope to hear from someone who has done something stupid liike this and has a way to get at that bolt and what left handed ratchet-swivel-socket-wrench they used.
Thanks for the vent,
I need a Beer!

 

I've actually never done a 4.2L intake before, so I dunno what you're looking at. I'd get a magnet with a flexible shaft on it and start poking around. As far as torquing that PITA bolt, guestimate on it, that's what I'd do. It'll be close enough for gummint work.

 

After a two day break and lots of food, I took deep breath and got the PITA bolt in 15 min. After I got the intake off, did what you said with a magnet and pulled it right out.
Now another question, injector o-rings, replace or reuse?
I have alot of cleaning to do around them and was wondering about that.
Ford engineers really were thinking on that plastic type of gasket wern't they?
97,000 miles O2 sensor replace?
Any thoughts on uppers only or all 4?
Second snow and 18 degrees in Bloomington, MN this AM.

 

Use new o-rings and lube them before installation.

 

While I have the intake off, where and how do I check the EGR ports on the ntake?
Are they the springy looking thing on each runner?
If they need to be cleaned how?
Thanks again.

 

First,go to NAPA and buy a couple of cans of DEEP CREEP (the spray version of SEAFOAM).Remove the EGR valve from the manifold.Spray the EGR runner with Deep Creep.The EGR ports are those (6) holes,one by each cylinder runner.Spray these too,and use a brass bore brush to clean them.Or,spray everything down and let it soak awhile.Spray the IMRC runners too,and use a tooth brush to clean them.All in all,spray/soak the whole manifold.Then use compressed air to clean/remove any debris left.

 

thanks for the feed back, did search after I posted question and found lots on cleaning what do you think about a 3/16" drill bit to clean holes?

 

Bad idea on using a drill bit! Use a bore brush,or let it soak for awhile.Or,both.

 

Will do and will post end results.
What do you think of replacing O2 sensors?
97,000 miles on oem units.
Shoild I clean MAf sensor?
Anything else whilst I'm in it?

 

At that mileage it wont hurt to change the front two O2 sensors.The back two only monitor the cats.
Clean your MAF sensor by spraying the hair like wires with brake cleaner spray.Also,use some Deep Creep and a tooth brush to clean the throttle body.Also,spray some Deep Creep in the IAC to clean the carbon out of it.
After all this cleaning your truck will run like new!

 

Have ordered and will replace after initial fireup.
Brake cleaner won't harm the little wires? I thought carb cleaner would be a better choice. I have a K&N filter, but do not find ANY oil residue in the tube that could foul up the wires in there. (I need to clean the air filter also)
There is a decal right on the throttle body inlet stating not to clean it as it is covered with material to prevent the build up of sludge.
In looking down the throat of the beast with TB open wide, I see a whitish sludge on both sides of the IAC inlet behind the TB. What is that stuff? I removed the IAC motor and found a bit of the white stuff in there also, not much though.
Did not really see any carbon buildup to speak of.
I only found two of the EGR ports carboned up and sorry to say used a small drill bit and HAND cleaned the ports with it and sprayed them clean.
Cleaned those six plates and runners as best I could with tooth brush and cleaner.
Not that it ran bad at all before but I hope it runs better yet!

 

First off,get rid of that K&N filter! It lets more dirt " bypass" it then it filters.
Use brake cleaner; it does not leave a residue.
Dont worry about that sticker;only use a cleaner for "THROTTLE BODIES" only! Ask any Ford tech.They clean them everyday.
Post back with results! :santa:

 

" Bypass"?
I looked for throttle body cleaner and from all the choices at the auto parts store, I could not find a one that was for TB only.
Any brand name you can throw me?
What do think that white sludge is?

 

Bypass,meaning the filter is so out of round and does not fit like a factory filter,that the dirt goes right "by" the filter into the throttle body instead of being filtered.
Places and brands of throttle body cleaners;
NAPA- CRC throttle body cleaner,Deep Creep,also can be used as a throttle body cleaner
Advance auto parts- STP throttle body cleaner
AutoZone- CRC throttle body cleaner,STP throttle body cleaner
CarQuest-same as above
Pep Boys-same as above
The white sludge sounds like it could be condensation.

 

OK will check out those brands.
Will clean PCV valve also.
Have had that K&N filter on it since new and do not see any build up or traces of any dirt or oil from it down the tube or elbow. Both factory and K&N have a pretty large seal area on the inlet side of the filter.
Thanks for the advice and ideas.
My 9 year old son was my hero Sunday night, will elaborate more later.