Should I drain the torque converter?
I am readay to change the tranny fluid on my 4 speed auto. I would also like to drain the torque converter. Should I? The Chilton manual does not mention it. Is it worth doing or just leave it as is.
Thanx!!
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'97,4.6 x-cab,2WD,3:55 LS,4 speed auto.
Mods: K&N filter & Flowmaster.
Thanx!!
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'97,4.6 x-cab,2WD,3:55 LS,4 speed auto.
Mods: K&N filter & Flowmaster.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by gah:
Put the transmission in N prior to turning the engine.
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Put the transmission in N prior to turning the engine.
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I just installed a Transgo shift kit in my '95 Tbird SC last weekend. I also drained the TC so I was trying to turn the engine over in P but it seemed to be very hard. I put the trans in N and it was easy. Is there something going on that I don't know about, or is it all in my head .... 
Thanks.
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'00 5.4L AUTO 4X4 F-150 Lariat
'98 4.0L 5spd Jeep Wrangler Sport
'95 3.8L SC Thunderbird
'02 F-350 PSD CC DRW 6SPD 4X4 Lariat (order this year)
www.hawthorn-engineering.com

Thanks.
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'00 5.4L AUTO 4X4 F-150 Lariat
'98 4.0L 5spd Jeep Wrangler Sport
'95 3.8L SC Thunderbird
'02 F-350 PSD CC DRW 6SPD 4X4 Lariat (order this year)
www.hawthorn-engineering.com
If you washed your dog in the bathtub, would you drain half of the water and then top it off before you got in...
...or would you drain it all and fill the tub with new water before you got in?
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Y2K™ Jim - N8JG@Hotmail.com
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
...or would you drain it all and fill the tub with new water before you got in?
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Y2K™ Jim - N8JG@Hotmail.com
Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by gah:
I just installed a Transgo shift kit in my '95 Tbird SC last weekend. I also drained the TC so I was trying to turn the engine over in P but it seemed to be very hard. I put the trans in N and it was easy. Is there something going on that I don't know about, or is it all in my head ....
</font>
I just installed a Transgo shift kit in my '95 Tbird SC last weekend. I also drained the TC so I was trying to turn the engine over in P but it seemed to be very hard. I put the trans in N and it was easy. Is there something going on that I don't know about, or is it all in my head ....

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There is no reason why the engine would be any harder to turn in park than in neutral. In both cases the engine is not connected to the ouput shaft. The output shaft is held by the park gear and park pawl. But since in both park and nuetral the input and output shafts are not connected, there is no difference in how much force it takes to turn the engine.
Mark
Drain it and feel lucky that it has a plug; not all cars do.
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2000 F-150 XL, RC, LB, 5.4L, 4R70W, 4.10LS,
Class III tow, Payload #3, & Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS, Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner w/Paintsaver & gas/wheel/spare locks,
K&N F.I.P.K. w/Outwears pre-filter, Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back w/ 3" Y-pipe,
Hellwig front & rear anti-sway bars, Rancho RS 9000s,
Pirelli Scorpion Zero 275/60/16s, Mobil 1, K&N oil filter.
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2000 F-150 XL, RC, LB, 5.4L, 4R70W, 4.10LS,
Class III tow, Payload #3, & Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS, Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner w/Paintsaver & gas/wheel/spare locks,
K&N F.I.P.K. w/Outwears pre-filter, Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back w/ 3" Y-pipe,
Hellwig front & rear anti-sway bars, Rancho RS 9000s,
Pirelli Scorpion Zero 275/60/16s, Mobil 1, K&N oil filter.
Without a doubt you should drain the TC. It holds approx 7~8 quarts of ATF compared to 5 in the trans pan. It's very easy to drain. By far the easiest way to get the drain plug in the 6 o'clock position is to use a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley nut. Put the transmission in N prior to turning the engine. If you want a divorce, have your wife crank the engine while you look for the drain plug!!!
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'00 5.4L AUTO 4X4 F-150 Lariat
'98 4.0L 5spd Jeep Wrangler Sport
'95 3.8L SC Thunderbird
'02 F-350 PSD CC DRW 6SPD 4X4 Lariat (order this year)
www.hawthorn-engineering.com
------------------
'00 5.4L AUTO 4X4 F-150 Lariat
'98 4.0L 5spd Jeep Wrangler Sport
'95 3.8L SC Thunderbird
'02 F-350 PSD CC DRW 6SPD 4X4 Lariat (order this year)
www.hawthorn-engineering.com
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I know this may go against the grain of most of these posts, but here is my two cents, most from experience and research.
Transmissions will naturally get a buildup in them and transmission fluid is full of detergents to combat this. When you change ALL of the transmission fluid you are filling it full of detergent that may clean deposits that may clog your filter, servos, ports, etc. When you change only what is in the pan it freshens the old and is good till the next scheduled change, I think 30k.
If you are compelled to change all of the fluid, I would do it more often than what the book says - maybe every 10k.
If you change it when the book says, and only change what is in the pan, your transmission will last a LONG TIME. Probably longer than you want to own the truck.
MOST damaging is NOT changing the fluid on schedule and letting it go, say 70 - 100k and you then decide to change it ALL. Now all that detergent is having a field day cleaning all that buildup from neglect. Then within the next 10 - 30k miles it dies. Many people fall into this category. You are better off changing only what is in the pan. Overall your transmission life has been shortened because of the earlier neglect; however, If you change it ALL, you will kill it earlier than it has to.
This is something to think about. Good luck on your decisions.
Transmissions will naturally get a buildup in them and transmission fluid is full of detergents to combat this. When you change ALL of the transmission fluid you are filling it full of detergent that may clean deposits that may clog your filter, servos, ports, etc. When you change only what is in the pan it freshens the old and is good till the next scheduled change, I think 30k.
If you are compelled to change all of the fluid, I would do it more often than what the book says - maybe every 10k.
If you change it when the book says, and only change what is in the pan, your transmission will last a LONG TIME. Probably longer than you want to own the truck.
MOST damaging is NOT changing the fluid on schedule and letting it go, say 70 - 100k and you then decide to change it ALL. Now all that detergent is having a field day cleaning all that buildup from neglect. Then within the next 10 - 30k miles it dies. Many people fall into this category. You are better off changing only what is in the pan. Overall your transmission life has been shortened because of the earlier neglect; however, If you change it ALL, you will kill it earlier than it has to.
This is something to think about. Good luck on your decisions.
Yeah.......Rightttttt. (SIC)
Why don't we just siphon out a few quarts of oil from the engine and "refresh" the old oil that's left and extend engine life by leaving all the crud in there. Makes sense to me.
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'96 F-150 302
Hedman Hedders, Catco Cat., Gibson Super Truck, K&N F.I.P.K.
Why don't we just siphon out a few quarts of oil from the engine and "refresh" the old oil that's left and extend engine life by leaving all the crud in there. Makes sense to me.
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'96 F-150 302
Hedman Hedders, Catco Cat., Gibson Super Truck, K&N F.I.P.K.


