Transgo arrived
Does anyone have their trans-go shift kit set at level 2 combined with a superchip? Please tell me how you like and how hard does it shift? One more question.... is level 3 still streetable, or that to much?
Originally posted by WLF
If it's happening while running thats a different story. If it happens after turning off the engine then ignore it. My truck makes so many hisses and creeks after I turn it off that I stopped listening.
If it's happening while running thats a different story. If it happens after turning off the engine then ignore it. My truck makes so many hisses and creeks after I turn it off that I stopped listening.
WLF (and others interested)
I finally found the time to do the install. And now, the rest of the story...
I drilled the hole, drained the oil and dropped the pan. Then, instead of a wiring harness (per se) as described in the video, I note that Ford is using a flexstrip harness to make all of the electrical connections (in my '98 anyway). After figuring out how to release the connectors without destroying the retaining tabs, I removed the harness. So far, so good.
Next, I dropped the valve body, realizing that none of the 10mm screws had to be removed to do so, and damn near let the thing fall on me and my son. It, of course, was still loaded with lubricant... which promptly went everywhere except the drain pan I had under it.
The 3-4 accumulator didn't fall out, so I didn't have to worry about that. I did the seperator plate mod, doing a "Stage 1 1/2" (hole 2, drilled to 5/64, like you did). Some of the other holes weren't there, as shown on the illustration, and some were different. After cleaning the valve body up I found that I had dumped the ***** in the trash can when I turned the valve body over. We found six of them, which is what is needed...
I changed out the valves and springs, did the pressure relief mod, and buttoned the valve body up. I had taken the advice to heart and bought a decent set of snap ring pliers; I'm glad I did, since the set I had wouldn't fit the ring on the 1-2 accumulator.
I put everything in, and buttoned it back up. Drained the torque converter and plugged that back up. Filled it back up with fluid knowing the somewhere around eight quarts, I would have to start the truck and fill the converter. In the mean time, my 10 year old dumps quart 9 in the filler, which quite promptly overflowed the fill tube. Oh well... Started it up, and then added 3 more quarts.
The moment of truth arrives... I fire it up and cycle it through the gears. In R, nothing... in N, reverse... in D, nothing... in 2, all gears. After a veritable plethoria of expletives, I set about to fix the problem.
Fortunately, I had put the drain plug in the pan. Drained the new oil out into a very clean bucket, and then dropped the pan and removed the filter. When I reinstalled the valve body, I put the **** on the shifter pawl in the wrong notch on the manual valve (duh), so now I have to drop the valve body again to obtain clearance to re-position the valve. Oil now is again everywhere, including down my arm and my back (looked like I had been shot).
To make a long story a little longer... Reloaded the tranny with oil, and ran it through the gears. Everything appeared to be OK; it interesting to note just how much pedal pressure has to be applied to the brakes to stop the drive train from spinning...
Got it down off the jack stands and out the door for the test drive. It won't chirp the tires, but it isn't a slop shifter any more :-) So, all in all, barring the two mishaps (the oil spill and the manual valve position) I would say it went well and the results are very positive! Subtracting the fix to the valve and the oil cleanup, the install took about 5.5 hours.
Thanks for the loan of the video and the advice. Maybe we can hook up someday and commisurate.
I finally found the time to do the install. And now, the rest of the story...
I drilled the hole, drained the oil and dropped the pan. Then, instead of a wiring harness (per se) as described in the video, I note that Ford is using a flexstrip harness to make all of the electrical connections (in my '98 anyway). After figuring out how to release the connectors without destroying the retaining tabs, I removed the harness. So far, so good.
Next, I dropped the valve body, realizing that none of the 10mm screws had to be removed to do so, and damn near let the thing fall on me and my son. It, of course, was still loaded with lubricant... which promptly went everywhere except the drain pan I had under it.
The 3-4 accumulator didn't fall out, so I didn't have to worry about that. I did the seperator plate mod, doing a "Stage 1 1/2" (hole 2, drilled to 5/64, like you did). Some of the other holes weren't there, as shown on the illustration, and some were different. After cleaning the valve body up I found that I had dumped the ***** in the trash can when I turned the valve body over. We found six of them, which is what is needed...
I changed out the valves and springs, did the pressure relief mod, and buttoned the valve body up. I had taken the advice to heart and bought a decent set of snap ring pliers; I'm glad I did, since the set I had wouldn't fit the ring on the 1-2 accumulator.
I put everything in, and buttoned it back up. Drained the torque converter and plugged that back up. Filled it back up with fluid knowing the somewhere around eight quarts, I would have to start the truck and fill the converter. In the mean time, my 10 year old dumps quart 9 in the filler, which quite promptly overflowed the fill tube. Oh well... Started it up, and then added 3 more quarts.
The moment of truth arrives... I fire it up and cycle it through the gears. In R, nothing... in N, reverse... in D, nothing... in 2, all gears. After a veritable plethoria of expletives, I set about to fix the problem.
Fortunately, I had put the drain plug in the pan. Drained the new oil out into a very clean bucket, and then dropped the pan and removed the filter. When I reinstalled the valve body, I put the **** on the shifter pawl in the wrong notch on the manual valve (duh), so now I have to drop the valve body again to obtain clearance to re-position the valve. Oil now is again everywhere, including down my arm and my back (looked like I had been shot).
To make a long story a little longer... Reloaded the tranny with oil, and ran it through the gears. Everything appeared to be OK; it interesting to note just how much pedal pressure has to be applied to the brakes to stop the drive train from spinning...
Got it down off the jack stands and out the door for the test drive. It won't chirp the tires, but it isn't a slop shifter any more :-) So, all in all, barring the two mishaps (the oil spill and the manual valve position) I would say it went well and the results are very positive! Subtracting the fix to the valve and the oil cleanup, the install took about 5.5 hours.
Thanks for the loan of the video and the advice. Maybe we can hook up someday and commisurate.
Last edited by JPBigony; Oct 13, 2002 at 11:22 AM.
Glad it turned out well, even if eventfull. Mine will chirp tires at times but I am running with the superchip. Doesn't do it all the time.
I know the feeling when you put it togeather after doing a mod you know perfectly well you should not be doing and it doesn't work the first time. For me it was the stuck valve thing.
Yea we will have to meet up sometime for a brew.
Watch yourself at those gas stations. It's getting hairy down there D.C. way with that a$$hole sniper running around.
See ya...
I know the feeling when you put it togeather after doing a mod you know perfectly well you should not be doing and it doesn't work the first time. For me it was the stuck valve thing.
Yea we will have to meet up sometime for a brew.
Watch yourself at those gas stations. It's getting hairy down there D.C. way with that a$$hole sniper running around.
See ya...


