Baumann Install Experience (long)
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Baumann Install Experience (long)
Just did the Baumann install on my 2000 F150 SCab, and thought I'd share my experience. Everyone says how easy it is even for an average person, well, I must be below average.
The instructions are very well written, but the figures should be on the same page as the instructions. My kit came with two pkgs. One was the main pkg, and the other contained the 1996+ seperator plate gaskets with a single sheet that says Read This First. I read the manual and the single sheet three times before starting.
I purchased a floorjack, jack stands, drain pan and Mercon V at Wal-mart. I purchased a trans filter at Autozone, and shop towels, a three head attachment split-ring plier, and a torque wrench at PepBoys.
I got the truck up on the stands, and myself and the drain pan under the truck. Loosened one end of the pan to drain some of the fluid, but not much so loosened some other bolts. Now I had fluid running out everywhere. Most of it went in the pan, but a fair share got on the driveway or poured down my arm. Eventually the back of my head was soaked. At this point I discovered that Autozone sold me the wrong filter. I called the mgr and their computer swears it was correct. I had my son go to the nearest FORD dealer for another filter.
Next I took the valve body out. Everything was pretty straight forward to this point. The instructions mention disconnecting wires. Well, now there is kind of a plastic strap harness across the bottom of the valve body with plugs on either end making it very simple to disconnect.
The diagram for drilling the holes was perfect, no problem their either. Think I only drilled 3 holes for level 4 setting. I installed the Sonnax valve and changed one spring and added some spacers couple to a couple of other valves. That wasn't a problem except to me valve photos were backwards. The exploded pictures had everything laid out right to left instead of left to right. A little confusing.
First bonehead mistake was looking for the 1-2 accumulator on the valve body. After 30 minutes and reading that section twice I realized in was on the case, just like the manual said. The snap-ring pliers I bought at PepBoys compressed the ring and everything popped out. All over the place, leaving me to guess which was the bottom or top spring. More manual reading, made a decision and went to reinstall it. I couldn't compress the snapiring because the pliers keep slipping off or my thumb wore out pushing the accumulator up the bore. I spent an hour trying to do it. My arms and shoulders gave out so I had my 16 yo son help. About 15 minutes later, he managed to get the snap-ring pliers compressed enough without the ring popping off to get it installed. By now it had been 5 hours. Tired and very dirty. I put the valve body back in place, but discovered the "sock filter" , really a cup type filter, had not been installed. So had to take the valve body off again. This is filter does not look like the one in the manual and I wasn't sure where it went. I found an oil passage in the valve body with the right shape, so that's where it went.
Put the valve body back on. Installed trans filter and started installing the pan. Now I've discovered a valve body bolt that wasn't installed. Off comes the pan. Installed the bolt, put the pan on, cleaned up and started adding trans fluid. By now, I'm wondering if my mechanical abilities will cost me a new transmission.
I went for a test drive and the 1-2 shift was a harsh thunk that seemed to happen too fast, like maybe 10 feet. The 2-3 shift was also a hard thunk and would break traction at WOT, yeah! The other problem was the OD light was blinking continously. OD worked, but the damn light kept telling me I did it again! I reset the computer because it was easy and I hoped for a miracle fix. Didn't happen! I got online and read about the blinking OD light and what it could mean and how much it could cost. Time for a muscle relaxer, tylenol 7.5, and a Coors Light. Nightnight.
Next morning, I do more internet surfing and this time read the READ THIS FIRST addendum FIRST. So with my new resolve, I go back to PepBoys and buy the 29.99 Lisle heavy duty snap-ring pliers that have about a dozen "bits" for different rings and 5qts of trans fluid.
Truck goes back on the stands, pan comes off, more trans fluid running down the back of my neck. This time I used my electric drill to take off the pan bolts. First thing I check is the two electrical connections on the valve body and sure enough the smallest one by the shift linkage reassuringly snapped in place when I put pressure on it. Next I used the Lisle pliers on the snap ring and pulled the 1-2 accumulator. I added two washers into the top cup and change the spring so that it resembled the picture in the update page. Then I put it back in and with the heavy duty Lisle pliers. The snap ring snapped right in place the first time. DAMN that was much easier!!!. The pan goes back on using the drill to snug the bolts, and hand torqued the rest of the way. Clean up time again. I re-filled the tranny check frequently, and let idle to operating temp. Last step, said a prayer, crossed my fingers and went for a test drive.
The OD light now worked properly and the 1-2 shift thunk/clang was gone. Everything shifted smoothly and precisely. I held 1st to about 4000 rpm and had a minor traction break going from 2-3 at WOT. I selected level 4, but don't have the neck snapping traction breaking shifts others have. I suspect I still don't have the 1-2 accumulator set right. The good news is that I don't have to buy a tranny (out of warranty), and that the shifts are precise. There's no more slip and shift as original. I'm happy, but sore for now so I'll wait a couple of weeks to do the 1-2 accumulator again after I call Greg. Overall, I'm releived, mostly pleased, but a little disappointed.
What would I do different? Buy the large metal floor drip pan and place under the drain pan to catch all the stray fluid, use a small shallow pan (cat litter pan) to keep all the bolts in, buy quality snap-ring pliers the first time, (I know the Lisle name, but went with something cheaper and inferior), buy the trans filter from FORD, have a gopher assistant for towels, tools, etc because it's a pain in the back crawling in and out from under the truck. Oh yeah, staple the READ ME FIRST PAGE to my forehead.
What did I learn? A transmission is just another inanimate object, albeit an important one. I learned a lot. I spent 6 hrs the first day and an hr the second. I could do it again in about 2. As my grandpappy always said, the right tool for the job. Trans fluid does not give you soft and manageable hair. Liquid Prell works great. I bathed in it!
Sorry to ramble on. I'm tired, sore, and a lot po'd with myself, but the satisfaction factor was worth it. Maybe someone else can find something useful from my experience.
Mike
2000 F150 5.4L XLT
2WD SuperCab FLARESIDE
Towing pkg
FREE real HD Ford radiator
Westin Nerf bars
Deflector bug catcher
DIY airbox and silencer mod
Linex bed
Berlin tonneau (love it!)
RS9000 shocks
Yoko Geolanders 265/70/16
The instructions are very well written, but the figures should be on the same page as the instructions. My kit came with two pkgs. One was the main pkg, and the other contained the 1996+ seperator plate gaskets with a single sheet that says Read This First. I read the manual and the single sheet three times before starting.
I purchased a floorjack, jack stands, drain pan and Mercon V at Wal-mart. I purchased a trans filter at Autozone, and shop towels, a three head attachment split-ring plier, and a torque wrench at PepBoys.
I got the truck up on the stands, and myself and the drain pan under the truck. Loosened one end of the pan to drain some of the fluid, but not much so loosened some other bolts. Now I had fluid running out everywhere. Most of it went in the pan, but a fair share got on the driveway or poured down my arm. Eventually the back of my head was soaked. At this point I discovered that Autozone sold me the wrong filter. I called the mgr and their computer swears it was correct. I had my son go to the nearest FORD dealer for another filter.
Next I took the valve body out. Everything was pretty straight forward to this point. The instructions mention disconnecting wires. Well, now there is kind of a plastic strap harness across the bottom of the valve body with plugs on either end making it very simple to disconnect.
The diagram for drilling the holes was perfect, no problem their either. Think I only drilled 3 holes for level 4 setting. I installed the Sonnax valve and changed one spring and added some spacers couple to a couple of other valves. That wasn't a problem except to me valve photos were backwards. The exploded pictures had everything laid out right to left instead of left to right. A little confusing.
First bonehead mistake was looking for the 1-2 accumulator on the valve body. After 30 minutes and reading that section twice I realized in was on the case, just like the manual said. The snap-ring pliers I bought at PepBoys compressed the ring and everything popped out. All over the place, leaving me to guess which was the bottom or top spring. More manual reading, made a decision and went to reinstall it. I couldn't compress the snapiring because the pliers keep slipping off or my thumb wore out pushing the accumulator up the bore. I spent an hour trying to do it. My arms and shoulders gave out so I had my 16 yo son help. About 15 minutes later, he managed to get the snap-ring pliers compressed enough without the ring popping off to get it installed. By now it had been 5 hours. Tired and very dirty. I put the valve body back in place, but discovered the "sock filter" , really a cup type filter, had not been installed. So had to take the valve body off again. This is filter does not look like the one in the manual and I wasn't sure where it went. I found an oil passage in the valve body with the right shape, so that's where it went.
Put the valve body back on. Installed trans filter and started installing the pan. Now I've discovered a valve body bolt that wasn't installed. Off comes the pan. Installed the bolt, put the pan on, cleaned up and started adding trans fluid. By now, I'm wondering if my mechanical abilities will cost me a new transmission.
I went for a test drive and the 1-2 shift was a harsh thunk that seemed to happen too fast, like maybe 10 feet. The 2-3 shift was also a hard thunk and would break traction at WOT, yeah! The other problem was the OD light was blinking continously. OD worked, but the damn light kept telling me I did it again! I reset the computer because it was easy and I hoped for a miracle fix. Didn't happen! I got online and read about the blinking OD light and what it could mean and how much it could cost. Time for a muscle relaxer, tylenol 7.5, and a Coors Light. Nightnight.
Next morning, I do more internet surfing and this time read the READ THIS FIRST addendum FIRST. So with my new resolve, I go back to PepBoys and buy the 29.99 Lisle heavy duty snap-ring pliers that have about a dozen "bits" for different rings and 5qts of trans fluid.
Truck goes back on the stands, pan comes off, more trans fluid running down the back of my neck. This time I used my electric drill to take off the pan bolts. First thing I check is the two electrical connections on the valve body and sure enough the smallest one by the shift linkage reassuringly snapped in place when I put pressure on it. Next I used the Lisle pliers on the snap ring and pulled the 1-2 accumulator. I added two washers into the top cup and change the spring so that it resembled the picture in the update page. Then I put it back in and with the heavy duty Lisle pliers. The snap ring snapped right in place the first time. DAMN that was much easier!!!. The pan goes back on using the drill to snug the bolts, and hand torqued the rest of the way. Clean up time again. I re-filled the tranny check frequently, and let idle to operating temp. Last step, said a prayer, crossed my fingers and went for a test drive.
The OD light now worked properly and the 1-2 shift thunk/clang was gone. Everything shifted smoothly and precisely. I held 1st to about 4000 rpm and had a minor traction break going from 2-3 at WOT. I selected level 4, but don't have the neck snapping traction breaking shifts others have. I suspect I still don't have the 1-2 accumulator set right. The good news is that I don't have to buy a tranny (out of warranty), and that the shifts are precise. There's no more slip and shift as original. I'm happy, but sore for now so I'll wait a couple of weeks to do the 1-2 accumulator again after I call Greg. Overall, I'm releived, mostly pleased, but a little disappointed.
What would I do different? Buy the large metal floor drip pan and place under the drain pan to catch all the stray fluid, use a small shallow pan (cat litter pan) to keep all the bolts in, buy quality snap-ring pliers the first time, (I know the Lisle name, but went with something cheaper and inferior), buy the trans filter from FORD, have a gopher assistant for towels, tools, etc because it's a pain in the back crawling in and out from under the truck. Oh yeah, staple the READ ME FIRST PAGE to my forehead.
What did I learn? A transmission is just another inanimate object, albeit an important one. I learned a lot. I spent 6 hrs the first day and an hr the second. I could do it again in about 2. As my grandpappy always said, the right tool for the job. Trans fluid does not give you soft and manageable hair. Liquid Prell works great. I bathed in it!
Sorry to ramble on. I'm tired, sore, and a lot po'd with myself, but the satisfaction factor was worth it. Maybe someone else can find something useful from my experience.
Mike
2000 F150 5.4L XLT
2WD SuperCab FLARESIDE
Towing pkg
FREE real HD Ford radiator
Westin Nerf bars
Deflector bug catcher
DIY airbox and silencer mod
Linex bed
Berlin tonneau (love it!)
RS9000 shocks
Yoko Geolanders 265/70/16
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,678
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From: Northern Kentucky
I see your a fairly new member, welcome to the boards and that was a great post. I wouldn't say your below average, if anything maybe a little above average. You taught me a thing or two. I guess the internal working of an automatic trans are like a little black box for most people, they have no idea what goes on inside of one, and just dropping the pan scares the crap out of some people (it does me too a little bit).
The question that comes to my mind is. What did the READ THIS FIRST addendum actually say? Did it just give you an update on the 1-2 accumalator? Did you do this solely off the kit's instructions or did you have a service manual (other than Haynes or Chiltons, which doesn't include tranny breakdowns)?
Also, what brand was the Autozone filter? I work for a parts place and I know sometimes the aftermarket companies redesign the filter to perform better or to cut costs. Just wondering on this one.
Anyways your story sounds a lot like how mine usually go. Long, messy, and a lot of head scrathing trying to figure something out, LOL.
The question that comes to my mind is. What did the READ THIS FIRST addendum actually say? Did it just give you an update on the 1-2 accumalator? Did you do this solely off the kit's instructions or did you have a service manual (other than Haynes or Chiltons, which doesn't include tranny breakdowns)?
Also, what brand was the Autozone filter? I work for a parts place and I know sometimes the aftermarket companies redesign the filter to perform better or to cut costs. Just wondering on this one.
Anyways your story sounds a lot like how mine usually go. Long, messy, and a lot of head scrathing trying to figure something out, LOL.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,740
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From: SE Florida, USA
Loosened one end of the pan to drain some of the fluid, but not much so loosened some other bolts. Now I had fluid running out everywhere. Most of it went in the pan, but a fair share got on the driveway or poured down my arm.
Disconnect one of the cooler lines. Put both ends in a bucket or drain pan. Start the engine and let it idle until you see some air with the fluid. Shut the engine off and remove the pan. It will be nearly empty.
Mark
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The BE kit is a great product, but here's a few tips that I found. A) Use Ford filter F6AZ-7A098-A $28. B) Buy a plastic trash can lid, cut a hole in the middle, and put it upside down over a 10qt. metal drain pan. C) invest in a 9'X12' plastic drop cloth from K-Mart for a $1; put this under the whole truck. D) Buy a B&M drain plug kit for $8 at Auto Zone and have every size drill bit to install it up to 1/2". Buy a thin 1/2" washer to add to the B&M drain plug between the outer 3/4" fitting and the plastic/teflon washer for support/ to keep this washer from distorting when it's torqued to 20ft/lbs. E) The BE instructions for valve body electrical connections suck (how much effort can this take to fix??). Forget them and just remove the flat, plastic harness on the two outside fittings, which snap on and have clips to hold them. F) Forget the sissy precautions in the instructions, use Stage 4 minimum, do all the other mods on "Supercharger", and do the OD mods as well. G) The 1-2 accumulator...Buy large/strong snap ring pliars...push it up in the transmission case with a hammer handle end while pushing with your left hand on the hammer head...be a contortionist using your right had with the snap ring pliars..be prepared for them to fall out upon release. H) Be patient and utilize a clean enviroment with lots of lint free towels.
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KYFordFreak
The Autozone filter was a BIG plastic thing that looked more like an airbox! The truck's filter which was then in my hand was about an 8" rectangular metal thing. I spoke to the mgr who verified the part # I had him check for 98, 99, 00 and they all came up with the wrong plastic filter. He wants me to bring in the old filter so he can see it and report his parts computer wrong.
The READ THIS FIRST page was in a bag with the 1996+gaskets. It also covered the 1-2 accumulator that was changed from billet aluminum to stamped steel. The gaskets in the main parts bag are not for newer 4R70Ws.
I thought about getting a manual before I went in the 2nd time, but decided against it. The only manual I used was from Baumann. As I mentioned, I did purchase a HD snap ring plier which made all the difference the 2nd time.
Yeah, I was a little leary of doing this mod, but I took my time and tried to think things thru. If I had remembered the newer page on the accumulator AND purchased the HD snap-ring plier I don't think I would have had to remove the pan the second time. It was a learning experience and nothing broke.
I saw several blinking OD light msgs after shift kits were installed and I'll bet one of the two connections on the valve body were loose. Mike
2000 F150 5.4L XLT
2WD SuperCab FLARESIDE
Towing pkg
FREE real HD Ford radiator
Westin Nerf bars
Deflector bug catcher
DIY airbox and silencer mod
Linex bed
Berlin tonneau (love it!)
RS9000 shocks
Yoko Geolanders 265/70/16
The READ THIS FIRST page was in a bag with the 1996+gaskets. It also covered the 1-2 accumulator that was changed from billet aluminum to stamped steel. The gaskets in the main parts bag are not for newer 4R70Ws.
I thought about getting a manual before I went in the 2nd time, but decided against it. The only manual I used was from Baumann. As I mentioned, I did purchase a HD snap ring plier which made all the difference the 2nd time.
Yeah, I was a little leary of doing this mod, but I took my time and tried to think things thru. If I had remembered the newer page on the accumulator AND purchased the HD snap-ring plier I don't think I would have had to remove the pan the second time. It was a learning experience and nothing broke.
I saw several blinking OD light msgs after shift kits were installed and I'll bet one of the two connections on the valve body were loose. Mike
2000 F150 5.4L XLT
2WD SuperCab FLARESIDE
Towing pkg
FREE real HD Ford radiator
Westin Nerf bars
Deflector bug catcher
DIY airbox and silencer mod
Linex bed
Berlin tonneau (love it!)
RS9000 shocks
Yoko Geolanders 265/70/16
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Joined: Aug 2000
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From: San Jose, California, U.S.A.
When I did my transmission fluid change Pep Boys tried to sell me the filter for a 4R100 instead. This is possibly what happened with you too.
I used the Valvoline Durablend Synthetic Dexron III / Mercon/ Mercon V fluid. I have a transmission temp gauge installed and before I did the fluid change my temp would average around 150 Deg. After the change it averages around 160 and goes up to around 180 with around town driving. Just seems kinda funny that a fluid change would change my average temperature. Anyone else notice this?
Jes
I used the Valvoline Durablend Synthetic Dexron III / Mercon/ Mercon V fluid. I have a transmission temp gauge installed and before I did the fluid change my temp would average around 150 Deg. After the change it averages around 160 and goes up to around 180 with around town driving. Just seems kinda funny that a fluid change would change my average temperature. Anyone else notice this?
Jes
Last edited by rocketir; Apr 22, 2002 at 08:59 PM.
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Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 445
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From: Shelby Twp., MI,USA
Bought my filter at Autozone too. Same thing, wrong filter. They gave one for a 4R100. They put 5.4 engine in the computer and that's the filter it said to use. I told 'em to put in 4.6 and then it gave the right part number for my tranny even though I have a 5.4. I guess some 5.4s have 4R100s and some have a 4R70W.
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From: South of the Red River
Originally posted by Mark Kovalsky
There is a way to avoid the shower.
Disconnect one of the cooler lines. Put both ends in a bucket or drain pan. Start the engine and let it idle until you see some air with the fluid. Shut the engine off and remove the pan. It will be nearly empty.
Mark
There is a way to avoid the shower.
Disconnect one of the cooler lines. Put both ends in a bucket or drain pan. Start the engine and let it idle until you see some air with the fluid. Shut the engine off and remove the pan. It will be nearly empty.
Mark
Is this method safe for the transmission? Seems you would be running parts of it dry and that scares me. I do like the idea of a "rain free" drain, but not at the expense of my tranny.
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Massachusetts
Micrhon,
I hope you do not take offense, but between your post and the one in the supercharger forum by skid has kept me laughing all day. I think that I may show up to work tomorrow and find that I no longer have internet access because I was laughing soooo hard
.
Your learning experience was just what I needed to read as I plan on ordering my shift kit soon.
I do have a question to those who wish to respond.
What made you decide to go with the Baumann kit instead of the Transgo which seems to be more popular on these boards?
I hope you do not take offense, but between your post and the one in the supercharger forum by skid has kept me laughing all day. I think that I may show up to work tomorrow and find that I no longer have internet access because I was laughing soooo hard
.Your learning experience was just what I needed to read as I plan on ordering my shift kit soon.
I do have a question to those who wish to respond.
What made you decide to go with the Baumann kit instead of the Transgo which seems to be more popular on these boards?
Senior Member
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Posts: 1,678
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From: Northern Kentucky
Oh, I see it was computer/info glithc with Autozone. I know how that goes. Our stupid computers at work (not Auto zone) still just list it as AODE on my truck and E4OD on the 4R100. I do think whoever programs this stuff in has any automotive knowledge whatsoever. Glad to hear it all went well in the end.
Max
Thanks for the tips on the BE kit. Any tips on a Transgo kit?
Max
Thanks for the tips on the BE kit. Any tips on a Transgo kit?
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: SE Florida, USA
Originally posted by Y2kXLTSport
Is this method safe for the transmission? Seems you would be running parts of it dry and that scares me. I do like the idea of a "rain free" drain, but not at the expense of my tranny.
Is this method safe for the transmission? Seems you would be running parts of it dry and that scares me. I do like the idea of a "rain free" drain, but not at the expense of my tranny.
Ford has published this method in their shop manuals to change the transmission and torque converter fluid in vehicles that don't have a torque converter drain plug.
Mark
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From: South of the Red River
Originally posted by Mark Kovalsky
Yes, it's safe for the transmission. Just make sure to shut the engine off after you see some air in the line. If you let it run for 5 minutes after it pumps the pan dry I'd expect you to see some damage.
Ford has published this method in their shop manuals to change the transmission and torque converter fluid in vehicles that don't have a torque converter drain plug.
Mark
Yes, it's safe for the transmission. Just make sure to shut the engine off after you see some air in the line. If you let it run for 5 minutes after it pumps the pan dry I'd expect you to see some damage.
Ford has published this method in their shop manuals to change the transmission and torque converter fluid in vehicles that don't have a torque converter drain plug.
Mark
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 22
From: SE Florida, USA
No, this alone does not drain the torque converter. Here is the complete procedure that will change the fluid in the transmission and torque converter: http://www.ford-diesel.com/faq/1999f...ance-AutoT.htm This was written for a SuperDuty. Some of the specifics like bolt locations ar edifferent, but the basic procedure will work on any automatic transmission.
What I wrote a few posts ago will only pump out the pan. The torque converter will still be full. This procedure will change about 95% of the fluid in the system.
Mark
What I wrote a few posts ago will only pump out the pan. The torque converter will still be full. This procedure will change about 95% of the fluid in the system.
Mark