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Hi
I have a 2005 Expedition 2wd. The O/D isn’t working and I was looking to get a used one due to covid I
don’t want to spend the money now to get it rebuilt. I found a 2007 f150 4R75E. I have heard conflicting things that it may not work because the connectors changed. Does anyone know if the 05 and 07 are the same before I purchase it. Thank you for the help
I saw that video before I posted here. My only thing is I’m afraid that by the time I get the trans pulled and get a chance to look at it my luck it wouldn’t be that and that trans will be gone lol
Originally Posted by Booshockaya
I would check the overdrive Pin, snap-ring. Would be cheaper than a swap and take less time. I put the link to the video that shows it.
I saw that video before I posted here. My only thing is I’m afraid that by the time I get the trans pulled and get a chance to look at it my luck it wouldn’t be that and that trans will be gone lol
You don't pull the trans. Just drop the pan and than valve body. Much faster than swapping out a transmission.
I'm about to drop my pan and valve body too as mine switches back n forth from over drive to 4th, kinda surges then slips. Go on youtube and look up FORDTECHMACULOCO. That guy knows FORDS and know how to repair then the right way. He has dozens of videos. Anyhow I have a new overdrive solenoid valve which has a VERY COMMON FAILURE WITTHE SNAP RING BREAKING, new check *****, new gaskets and new upgraded separator plate. I'm thinking of ordering new valves from Sonnax (pressure regulator, transmission bypass clutch control & plunger kit, Transmission Pressure Regulator Boost Valve & Sleeve Kit, total cost about $50). So I figure for less than $200 and the better part of a day I could tackle this. I have 150k on the truck but the truck had a factory rebuilt installed back in 2012
I watched his video and was hesitant to do it but figured screw it I’ll give it a shot.
My snap ring is completely in tack I’m going to have my pops look and see if he agrees but it appears at this point that it’s not my issue
Originally Posted by mkinttrim
I'm about to drop my pan and valve body too as mine switches back n forth from over drive to 4th, kinda surges then slips. Go on youtube and look up FORDTECHMACULOCO. That guy knows FORDS and know how to repair then the right way. He has dozens of videos. Anyhow I have a new overdrive solenoid valve which has a VERY COMMON FAILURE WITTHE SNAP RING BREAKING, new check *****, new gaskets and new upgraded separator plate. I'm thinking of ordering new valves from Sonnax (pressure regulator, transmission bypass clutch control & plunger kit, Transmission Pressure Regulator Boost Valve & Sleeve Kit, total cost about $50). So I figure for less than $200 and the better part of a day I could tackle this. I have 150k on the truck but the truck had a factory rebuilt installed back in 2012
Well good luck, I know you can get factory rebuilt valve bodies for about 150 plus core charge, might be your best bet unless it is the band itself. Good Luck and let us know how it works out.
If you are capable of pulling the transmission from the truck I venture to say you can rebuild it also. A guy on YouTube, "Transmission Bench" has almost 13 videos on tearing down the trans and rebuilding it. He breaks it down into many small jobs and it is super easy to follow. He might have the driest personality, but they are effective. I have never rebuilt a transmission until now and Iearned so much about automatic transmissions. Just finished mine last week and it drives and shifts perfectly after going through it. I also bough the entire rebuild kit from a guy on Ebay and it had almost everything I needed. The only additional stuff I ended up getting was the thicker separator plate, Sonnax Zip-Kit, and the fluid.
Hi everyone thanks for the help and suggestions. Ended up getting a used transmission. Saw someone who wrecked their 06 last week and came to a good deal. Installed it yesterday put it in reverse took off the ramps and now it won’t move forward or reverse. Doesn’t seem to be engaging. Did a reset on the computer to reset values. Still nothing. Anyone have any ideas?
Resetting the computer can't help this. There is NOTHING electrical that can cause this. It has to be something mechanical.
Install a gauge in the test port on the driver's side of the trans. Chances are that there is no pressure. That can be caused by a torque converter that isn't seated properly, very low trans fluid, or a missing internal filter.
Ok thanks again guys I used a brand new drain pan and dropped the pan. Looked at the screen it wasn’t seated right when I put the new one on. Running great now. Thank you everyone for the help
QUOTE=Mark Kovalsky;5265202]Resetting the computer can't help this. There is NOTHING electrical that can cause this. It has to be something mechanical.
Install a gauge in the test port on the driver's side of the trans. Chances are that there is no pressure. That can be caused by a torque converter that isn't seated properly, very low trans fluid, or a missing internal filter.[/QUOTE]
normally I would be super hesitant about buying a used trans and not spending the money on a rebuilt one. However because of covid I really don’t have the extra money to spend and this one had been rebuilt 41k miles ago and had paperwork to prove so I felt a little better about it.
Originally Posted by Booshockaya
Any codes? Not to be rude, but fill level is ok? Sounds like you are probably not building up pressure. This is also why I hate used transmissions