Does anyone know what's the pressure is in the cooler line coming out of the trans? I was thinking about putting the remote spin on filter on the line coming out of the trans before the thermal bypass valve so that all the fluid gets filtered, not just the fluid after the valve opens up. The majority of the driving will probably be short trips that won't get the fluid hot enough to open the valve, therefor not be very effective if installed after the coolers before returning to the transmission.

Edit: I was thinking of using my parts washer to flush my lines and coolers. I just replaced my solvent with Crown PSC 1000 parts cleaner, which is almost completely Medium Aliphatic Naphtha (Cas #64742-47-8). I don't think the Naphtha would hurt anything, but I thought I'd ask in case someone had some first hand knowledge of why I shouldn't use it.

Thanks

 

I have all of the internals back in and have a couple of questions. Does the input shaft have to have some in and out play? I checked end play with the Ford tool and a depth micrometer and it was 1.508", so I used the yellow thrust washer as indicated by the chart. The intermediate clutch clearance was also within spec (1.648"). After torquing down the pump, I can spin the shaft easily but it will not move in and out at all. Not even a little. Is this alright or is something amiss and I need to open it back up?

Also, is loctite required for the pump bolts? It looks like the old bolts had something on them from before (yellow colored).

 

You're good and no loctite

 

Thanks Darrin. I wasn't sure if the Sonnax sun gear I used was causing it. The lower gear is almost 0.010" taller than the OEM one (must be made to the 4R70W spec). I know Ford shortened them by 0.010" for the E models because of the taller 2 piece #5 bearing, but I guess if it was an issue it would have shown up in the end play measurement.

Any thoughts on putting the remote filter in the output side before the thermal valve and what pressure bypass valve to use there since the pressure at that location will be higher than after the coolers?

 

btw...He's da man....got it , get it...done!

 

I'm sure he'll be flattered that you think so fondly of his dancing banana. Lol

 

Well, it looks like I'm going to have to pull it apart anyways. All of the drums sealed correctly when checked before assembly, but after I got everything together and checked again with the test plate installed, it seems that the reverse and direct drums are leaking a lot of air. Not sure why now and not before.

 

I finally got the trans back together again and it's the same issues. The reverse drum is leaking between the stator rings and the direct drum is leaking around either the shaft seals or shaft to drum seals. It's hard to tell when the test plate is hooked up. If I squirt some trans fluid into the hole before testing with air, it cuts the leaking down some. The pump, pump rings, reverse drum, direct drum, output shaft and transmission case are all brand new, as well as the direct drum to output shaft teflon seals. I'm not sure what else I can do to fix this.

All of the pistons engage when hit with air, they just work a little better with some fluid added first. Am I to assume that this is normal and it should work correctly when installed?

 

Transmission is finally going in this weekend and I have a couple of questions. Which nuts/bolts require loctite and what kind should be used (red or blue)?


1. Flexplate mounting bolts?

2. Torque converter nuts?

3. Transmission housing mounting bolts?

4. Transfer case to transmission extension housing bolts?



Thanks

 

Well after being sick for a couple weeks and also having to fix the transmission harness, I'm hopefully going to get this thing thrown back together.

I have a question about the torque converter (TC) end play. Are they referring to the distance between the face of the flexplate (FP) to the flats at the bottom of bolts on the torque converter or the side to side movement of the TC bolts in the flexplate holes? If it's the distance between the face of the FP and flats on the TC as I assume, then I have some excessive end play for sure.

The book says end play should be between 0.014"-0.041", but I'm getting 0.256" when I measure it out. The measurement from the end of the bell housing to the flats on the TC is 1.031". The measurement from the face of the FP mounting holes to the spacer plate is 0.775".
1.031-0.775 = 0.256, just over 1/4" of end play. Everything is new Ford parts, so I'm not sure why the excessive amount of end play. Am I measuring it correctly? Is there a different way to measure it? What can be done to correct this?

Also, the new flexplates don't come with the orange alignment paint mark, but the new torque converters still do. The book says to align the two orange marks when assembling them together (I assume for balance reasons). How are these supposed to aligned together now without the mark on the FP?

Thanks.