Aw crap, there goes NCSU's tranny...
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,390
Likes: 10
I'm glad I know how to find archival info that soundly refutes this BS fallacy ...
...
First, forget all those other transmissions, you do not have them or their issues with a 2004 or newer F-150 using the 5.4 3V engine, you have the 4R75-E transmission, and it is a great unit that can withstand a good deal of power, well above and beyond stock levels.
In fact, it can withstand superchargers just fine - the Roush supercharger kits we specialize in and sell a lot of for these vehicles (we have 7 of them in a row being done right now as quickly as we can get them in and out) is backed by a 36 month 36,000 mile complete powertrain warranty when installed on a new vehicle - THAT is how reliable those 4R75E's are, enough so that Roush backs them completely on a brand new vehicle with a replacement 36/36 warranty, so that you can have the Roushcharger installed and still have a 36/36 bumper to bumper warranty on a new vehicle.
And in terms of what we are doing in *our* tuning - there is *nothing in our tuning that is going to be detrimental in any way to your transmission - what we do reduces slippage, and thus extends the service life of the friction materials - bands clutches, etc.
I do NOT recommend installing a shift kit, separator plate, valve body, etc in the 4R75E transmission, as it does NOT have the deficiencies that the earlier 4R70W's and those way-old AOD-series or 4R100 series units have - the 4R75 is is physically capable of flowing much more fluid volume than all of those other trannies, which is why we can make it shift hard enough to jerk your neck off in them via tuning alone - we don't set them up like that, as it's not appropriate - but that can easily be done via tuning alone as they are capable of filling the clutch packs that quickly if calibrated that way.
The only time we recommend upgrading the 4R75E transmission is if you are going to exceed about 425-450 RWHP and use it in a performance application a,nd in that case, we recommend a complete performance build, to include additional clutches, upgraded hard parts, etc. But none of that is needed for the typical truck with bolt-on mods, or even with a supercharger, as the stock tranny, when *calibrated* correctly in the tuning, handles that power just fine to well above 400 RWHP - we have *many* trucks operating at those power levels and they aren't having any transmission issues.
All in all, that 4R75-E is a much better unit that all th other models, and what applies to all those other models you mentioned, in general, does not apply to the 4R75-E as it does not have those same weaknesses. It also has a very good transmission cooler, and before you think about changing that, first install a transmission temperature gauge with the probe correctly located so that you actually identify your transmission fluid temperatures - if they routinely exceed 200 degrees, *then* it's time to add on an *additional* trans oil cooler, and I would use one with a thermostatically controlled fan on it, and it needs to be the last cooler in line, so that the tranny fluid does not get overcooled, as it needs to hit a certain temperature to work properly. The ideal operating temperature for automatic transmission fluid in these newer Fords is 170 degrees, with peaks to 190 or so. It needs to reach at least 125 to do it's best job. We can help you with gauges & that type of cooler if need be....
First, forget all those other transmissions, you do not have them or their issues with a 2004 or newer F-150 using the 5.4 3V engine, you have the 4R75-E transmission, and it is a great unit that can withstand a good deal of power, well above and beyond stock levels.
In fact, it can withstand superchargers just fine - the Roush supercharger kits we specialize in and sell a lot of for these vehicles (we have 7 of them in a row being done right now as quickly as we can get them in and out) is backed by a 36 month 36,000 mile complete powertrain warranty when installed on a new vehicle - THAT is how reliable those 4R75E's are, enough so that Roush backs them completely on a brand new vehicle with a replacement 36/36 warranty, so that you can have the Roushcharger installed and still have a 36/36 bumper to bumper warranty on a new vehicle.
And in terms of what we are doing in *our* tuning - there is *nothing in our tuning that is going to be detrimental in any way to your transmission - what we do reduces slippage, and thus extends the service life of the friction materials - bands clutches, etc.
I do NOT recommend installing a shift kit, separator plate, valve body, etc in the 4R75E transmission, as it does NOT have the deficiencies that the earlier 4R70W's and those way-old AOD-series or 4R100 series units have - the 4R75 is is physically capable of flowing much more fluid volume than all of those other trannies, which is why we can make it shift hard enough to jerk your neck off in them via tuning alone - we don't set them up like that, as it's not appropriate - but that can easily be done via tuning alone as they are capable of filling the clutch packs that quickly if calibrated that way.
The only time we recommend upgrading the 4R75E transmission is if you are going to exceed about 425-450 RWHP and use it in a performance application a,nd in that case, we recommend a complete performance build, to include additional clutches, upgraded hard parts, etc. But none of that is needed for the typical truck with bolt-on mods, or even with a supercharger, as the stock tranny, when *calibrated* correctly in the tuning, handles that power just fine to well above 400 RWHP - we have *many* trucks operating at those power levels and they aren't having any transmission issues.
All in all, that 4R75-E is a much better unit that all th other models, and what applies to all those other models you mentioned, in general, does not apply to the 4R75-E as it does not have those same weaknesses. It also has a very good transmission cooler, and before you think about changing that, first install a transmission temperature gauge with the probe correctly located so that you actually identify your transmission fluid temperatures - if they routinely exceed 200 degrees, *then* it's time to add on an *additional* trans oil cooler, and I would use one with a thermostatically controlled fan on it, and it needs to be the last cooler in line, so that the tranny fluid does not get overcooled, as it needs to hit a certain temperature to work properly. The ideal operating temperature for automatic transmission fluid in these newer Fords is 170 degrees, with peaks to 190 or so. It needs to reach at least 125 to do it's best job. We can help you with gauges & that type of cooler if need be....
MGD
Last edited by MGDfan; Mar 2, 2011 at 07:27 AM.
I've also been in contact with TP about a new tranny. Hopefully I'll be able to chat with Mike when he gets back on Thursday.
- NCSU
- NCSU
Last edited by NCSU_05_FX4; Mar 1, 2011 at 11:43 PM.
Hmmm, dealership just called, they drove it around and didn't notice anything odd... They've checked the electrical components and so far everything looks good. They were able to pull 2 codes, 'incorrect gear ratio' for gears 1 and 2.
They're dropping the pan and are going to look for metal and check a solenoid or two. If they don't find anything I'm not sure if I just consider myself lucky I didn't have to replace the tranny and go about my merry way, or swing by the dealership this weekend and look at 2011s. Problem is I'd want another 4x4 SCab which brings the starting price up to around 36k.
Hmmmmmm.
- NCSU
They're dropping the pan and are going to look for metal and check a solenoid or two. If they don't find anything I'm not sure if I just consider myself lucky I didn't have to replace the tranny and go about my merry way, or swing by the dealership this weekend and look at 2011s. Problem is I'd want another 4x4 SCab which brings the starting price up to around 36k.
Hmmmmmm.
- NCSU
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,480
Likes: 6
From: San Angelo, TX
How about one of these?
Dealer called, they found a little bit of material in the fluid, possibly from the clutch. Their transmission guy said it was definitely mechanical, not electrical. Since reverse uses 1st gear, that explains why both 1st and R stopped working. They recommend a full replacement (~$3200) as that would get a 3 year, unlimited mileage warranty. I told them to just put it all back together and I'll figure out what I want to do.
So now it's between replacing the transmission or get a new truck.
- NCSU
Dealer called, they found a little bit of material in the fluid, possibly from the clutch. Their transmission guy said it was definitely mechanical, not electrical. Since reverse uses 1st gear, that explains why both 1st and R stopped working. They recommend a full replacement (~$3200) as that would get a 3 year, unlimited mileage warranty. I told them to just put it all back together and I'll figure out what I want to do.
So now it's between replacing the transmission or get a new truck.
- NCSU
Bah, Carmax offered $13k. They said it's worth a lot more with all the mods I've done, but they can't sell it on the lot and would have to sell it at auction.
Looks like I'll be replacing the tranny in the future. Although, as Matt said, if gas keeps going up we'll see what kind of deal I can find this summer.
- NCSU
Looks like I'll be replacing the tranny in the future. Although, as Matt said, if gas keeps going up we'll see what kind of deal I can find this summer.
- NCSU
Last edited by NCSU_05_FX4; Mar 2, 2011 at 04:31 PM.