14 error codes, O/D blink, engine almost dies...
#1
14 error codes, O/D blink, engine almost dies...
Ok, here goes.....
2000 4wd F150 95k miles.
CEL has been on and was told code was EGR valve, truck still ran fine (for longer than I should have used it..NJ-AL and back) I did clean those little foam filter things and reset CEL it only stayed off for 10miles.
Now the big problem is.... I parked it the night before, from a usual daily trip, and all was just normal, Next morning I went to move it in my driveway, started normally, but when I put it in gear, the engine layed down and acted like it was running on half its cylinders, truck would barely move, in either forward or reverse, O/D off light was blinking. I was able to limp it to a nearby guy w/ a reader, he said there was 14 codes!!! in the transmission. Today I had to limp it over to a Trans guy who said the same thing and will put it on lift tomorrow.
I had checked the fuses, the one under hood and it was blown, replaced it, blew instantly.
Has anyone seen this before? is it just a wiring short ? or did the trans just die from an overnight parking? I am just hoping to maybe toss an idea to the trans mechanic in the AM.
I so miss carburetors and distributor caps!!!!!!!!!
2000 4wd F150 95k miles.
CEL has been on and was told code was EGR valve, truck still ran fine (for longer than I should have used it..NJ-AL and back) I did clean those little foam filter things and reset CEL it only stayed off for 10miles.
Now the big problem is.... I parked it the night before, from a usual daily trip, and all was just normal, Next morning I went to move it in my driveway, started normally, but when I put it in gear, the engine layed down and acted like it was running on half its cylinders, truck would barely move, in either forward or reverse, O/D off light was blinking. I was able to limp it to a nearby guy w/ a reader, he said there was 14 codes!!! in the transmission. Today I had to limp it over to a Trans guy who said the same thing and will put it on lift tomorrow.
I had checked the fuses, the one under hood and it was blown, replaced it, blew instantly.
Has anyone seen this before? is it just a wiring short ? or did the trans just die from an overnight parking? I am just hoping to maybe toss an idea to the trans mechanic in the AM.
I so miss carburetors and distributor caps!!!!!!!!!
#3
The little foam things inside the plastic things that the vacuum lines go into, the tops pop off (takes some figgiting, probably some special tool for it) there is one on firewall near brake resaviour (sp*) and one under the cover on top of engine (5.4L Triton) Mine where hard and kind of shrunken looking, I sprayed w/ 2+2 and then dried w/ compressed air and they became soft and a bit larger. EGR valve maybe? not the flat thing w/ the green hose, its where that green hose comes from. It is the thing the middle arrow is pointing to, there is also a 2nd one off the right side of the picture, has a green cap on the side of it.
#5
Join Date: Oct 2002
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Your primary fault is the blown fuse, not the resulting symptoms. Those are just the result of loosing power to sensors or actuators.
It would have helped if you had identified the specific fuse that blew. However, I'll wager it was fuse F30.
If so, there's probably nothing wrong with either the tranny or the wiring harness. I'd disconnect the RFI caps on each bank and see if the short goes away. It usually does....
It also helps if you identify what engine you have. There are significant differences.
Steve
It would have helped if you had identified the specific fuse that blew. However, I'll wager it was fuse F30.
If so, there's probably nothing wrong with either the tranny or the wiring harness. I'd disconnect the RFI caps on each bank and see if the short goes away. It usually does....
It also helps if you identify what engine you have. There are significant differences.
Steve
Last edited by projectSHO89; 01-02-2008 at 11:33 PM.
#6
I have 5.4L Triton, 2000, the fuse that blows is #23 I am going to bring it home from the tras guy in a couple of hours, he couldnt even get it to move into his shop this AM, gonna be so much fun limping it home
I am hoping it is just some loose or chafed wire, so I have a chance of fixing it without a giant repair bill.
The trans guy even put it in my head that all the codes are because of a dead/bad computer.
I just got all the code from him:
1760
1747
0750
0743
0755
0443
1451
0135
0141
0161
1409
I am hoping it is just some loose or chafed wire, so I have a chance of fixing it without a giant repair bill.
The trans guy even put it in my head that all the codes are because of a dead/bad computer.
I just got all the code from him:
1760
1747
0750
0743
0755
0443
1451
0135
0141
0161
1409
#7
My truck just did the same thing about a month ago. It was found that one of the O2 sensor wires rubbed against the driveshaft and shorted out against the metal. My truck threw 14 codes as well and entered limp mode. Check the 4 O2 sensors by the catalytic converters for fraying, shorted wires. Also - if you find the shorted wires and fix, be sure to replace fuse F1.23. This fuse blew as a result of the shorted O2 sensor. This fuse is part of the transmission circuitry.
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
Last edited by Mo Power; 01-03-2008 at 06:14 PM.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Mo Power
My truck just did the same thing about a month ago. It was found that one of the 4 O2 sensor wires rubbed against the driveshaft and shorted out against the metal. My truck threw 14 codes as well and entered limp mode. Check the O2 sensor wire harnesses by the catalytic converters for fraying, shorted wires. Also - if you find the shorted wires and fix, be sure to replace fuse F1.23. This fuse blew as a result of the shorted O2 sensor. This fuse is part of the transmission circuitry.
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
Steve
#9
I just picked it up and limped home, I crawled under and saw the green sensor wire (4 wires?) (( drivers side)) that comes out just before cat conv, and it was rubbing against the header connection and was burned through. The truck was too hot and weather too cold to play any further tonight, so in AM I will have at it.
So now the question is...if I unscrew the sensor from the exhaust... will that need to be replaced or can I put that same one back in after I fix wires ( or do these stooopid things have a hissy fit and die LOL )
I will try to take pics for refference so it may help someone in future.
Could this be the only burn through/short that caused all the error codes or might there be another one as well??
I will let you know results ASAP
So now the question is...if I unscrew the sensor from the exhaust... will that need to be replaced or can I put that same one back in after I fix wires ( or do these stooopid things have a hissy fit and die LOL )
I will try to take pics for refference so it may help someone in future.
Could this be the only burn through/short that caused all the error codes or might there be another one as well??
I will let you know results ASAP
Last edited by MudBugSAR; 01-03-2008 at 08:18 PM.
#11
Originally Posted by MudBugSAR
The little foam things inside the plastic things that the vacuum lines go into, the tops pop off (takes some figgiting, probably some special tool for it) there is one on firewall near brake resaviour (sp*) and one under the cover on top of engine (5.4L Triton) Mine where hard and kind of shrunken looking, I sprayed w/ 2+2 and then dried w/ compressed air and they became soft and a bit larger. EGR valve maybe? not the flat thing w/ the green hose, its where that green hose comes from. It is the thing the middle arrow is pointing to, there is also a 2nd one off the right side of the picture, has a green cap on the side of it.
Well, I know exactly what he's talking about in this post - believe it or not. The solenoid filters. There's one for the EVAP and another for the EVR which is pointed out in this diagram..
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/egrsensors.htm
However - not the problem..
#12
OK fixed!!
Sorry I didnt take pics.
OK here goes.... pulled back the green covering and tiny dab of liquid elec tape, and about 1 inch of DUCT tape LOL = $0.01 materials and $0.00 labor (since I did it myself lol) (( 10-15 mins))
the green "heat resistant" covering was worn through (wonder why? they route it against the header flange ) and 1 white and the black wire insulation was worn/burned through, so it shorted against the header flange metal.
when I re-connected the plug I routed it BEHIND the shift cable (there is plenty of slack in the sensor wire)
Thanks guys!!
Sorry I didnt take pics.
OK here goes.... pulled back the green covering and tiny dab of liquid elec tape, and about 1 inch of DUCT tape LOL = $0.01 materials and $0.00 labor (since I did it myself lol) (( 10-15 mins))
the green "heat resistant" covering was worn through (wonder why? they route it against the header flange ) and 1 white and the black wire insulation was worn/burned through, so it shorted against the header flange metal.
when I re-connected the plug I routed it BEHIND the shift cable (there is plenty of slack in the sensor wire)
Thanks guys!!