Hi guys/gals...

I'm a total newbie. Please be patient with me. I bought my first F-150 two days ago, before that I drove a Geo Metro. I got a 2007 F-150 standard cab STX model with the 4.2 liter V6 with 4 speed automatic trans and I have some questions...

1. Where (online) can I get a decent automatic trans pan with a drain plug that doesn't cost $400? (Preferably one that allows me to use the stock transmission filter)

2. Is the urine-colored coolant necessary and if not, what can I use to replace it?

3. Axle lube - the owners' manual says the lubricant in the axle is good for life, but I used to work in a quick-lube place and I've seen this stuff turn jet black in a short ammount of time. Any recomendations on a good gear oil would be appreciated.

I really appreciate any help you guys/gals could give me. Thanks a lot. - John

 

The options you have are. Put a drain plug in a stock pan which will cost you about $35. Buy a stock pan with a drain plug from ford which are about $75 or Buy an aftermarket aluminum pan which I'm not sure exactly who has what, the ones I buy from time to time are $125. All pans will use the stock filter.

Coolant can be flushed and replaced with green coolant.

The OEM 75w140 synthetic fluid does hold up very well. Life means 100,000 miles so when it's time to change it I suggest using that fluid again. If you have a traction lock you also want 2 bottles of ford friction modifier.

Alan

 

I am not trying to be disagreeable but the coolant needs to be an approved type for that year truck and motor combination.
There is a reason it is the color it is from the factory.
Check it out first before putting in any other brew.

 

The new coolants are supposed to be low tox, meaning you can drink it if you really wanted to....
I don't suggest mixing coolant at all if you change it make sure you get it all out. My method is to drain the system and refill with water. Drain again, repeat until pure water comes out. Then top the system off with straight green antifreeze which will mix with the remaining water. Check it with a antifreeze gauge and adjust mixture as needed. It's the same thing they did with R-12. R-12 worked better than 134A but they wanted to dispose of it. Same thing going on here.

Alan

 

The point "I didn't make" clear, was that the engine cooling system needs coolant that is compatable with materials and compositions over the long haul in time.
If you trade every several years, it makes little difference except to who ever gets the truck in the future.
Much of a plugged and corroded radiator is the results of poor cooling system attention/treatment over time.
Some states set law as to what coolant is to be used such as CA. no supprise there.
This is part of the difference in color as well as what/ where the engine was assembled and vendor parts specs used.
In short, there is more to this than meets the eye.
That is why you need to look in your owners manuel for that truck or find out the specifics from another source.

 

1) forget the new pan. You can buy a drain plug kit at NAPA for $7.99. I just ordered 3 yesterday.

2) Stay with the same coolant.

3) IMO, one of Ford's worst recommendations..."lubed for life." My rear axle lube is changed every 30K, unless I submerge it in water. The modifier makes it so dark, so don't worry about that. The lube must be synthetic.

Motorcraft brand is among the most expensive.

You can use Royal Purple, Redline, Amsoil, all about $8/quart.

I'm a bit **** about new rigs and new oils/gear lubes....meaning, I change them rather frequently during the first 10K miles.