Tranny shudder
Tranny shudder
I have a 97 F150 with a 4.6 engine, the transmission has just started shuddering when getting ready to shift up from 2nd to 3rd and also from 3rd to OD, this always happens around 1,600 to 2K rpm. I bought it from the original owner with 32k and it now has 42k on it. Also, when pulling out from a stop, it feels like the passenger rear wheel clunks after a few feet. Thanks in advance. Just signed on today, alot of knowledge on this board. Tim
It may just need a fluid change. When was the last time the fluid was changed? If that is the original fluid, I would start there and see what happens. If the problem persists then take it to a dealer.
tranny shudder
Ratherbegolfin,
I had the same tranny shudder when truck shifted into final gear. Went to two ford dealers....they wanted to rebuild the whole tranny but they said it really it was the torque convertor that was going bad. I went to a local tranny shop and they put in a remanufactured torque convertor. Ford wanted to much for this repair. During the repair, they said my tranny was ok.....so far, truck is running good.
growl
I had the same tranny shudder when truck shifted into final gear. Went to two ford dealers....they wanted to rebuild the whole tranny but they said it really it was the torque convertor that was going bad. I went to a local tranny shop and they put in a remanufactured torque convertor. Ford wanted to much for this repair. During the repair, they said my tranny was ok.....so far, truck is running good.
growl
Originally posted by crashz
It may just need a fluid change. When was the last time the fluid was changed? If that is the original fluid, I would start there and see what happens. If the problem persists then take it to a dealer.
It may just need a fluid change. When was the last time the fluid was changed? If that is the original fluid, I would start there and see what happens. If the problem persists then take it to a dealer.
I had the shudder...
all I did was pour in a bottle of Seafoam Trans Med when I changed the fluid and it went away within a week...you know that whine in your power sterring?... I put some of the Seafoam there and it quit right away
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Ratherbegolfin,
Try the transmission oil and filter change before having the tranmission rebuilt or the converter changed. I had the trans shudder on my 99 F150 also. After I changed the fluid and filter the shudder went away. My 99 has a torque converter drain line. I also drained this. It took 12 quarts of mercron V to refill my transmission. Total cost around $60. Thats alot cheaper that $600 or more. If you can drain the converter, put about 7 quarts of fluid into the transmission and then start your truck for 30 seconds. Then add the other 4-5 and restart the truck again. Run the gear selector thru all of the gears and make sure it engages in all gears. Check fluid levels and then run the take the truck for a ride. Put 15 or 20 miles on it to make sure its warmed up to normal operation temp and everything is working ok. Check fluid levels a few times in the next few days to make sure everything is ok.
PS, If you find a small rod with a round plug on it in your transmission pan don't worry about it. This is the dip stick plug the factory installs in the transmission until it is installed into the truck. When they install the dipstick they just push this plugh into the pan. Good luck
Try the transmission oil and filter change before having the tranmission rebuilt or the converter changed. I had the trans shudder on my 99 F150 also. After I changed the fluid and filter the shudder went away. My 99 has a torque converter drain line. I also drained this. It took 12 quarts of mercron V to refill my transmission. Total cost around $60. Thats alot cheaper that $600 or more. If you can drain the converter, put about 7 quarts of fluid into the transmission and then start your truck for 30 seconds. Then add the other 4-5 and restart the truck again. Run the gear selector thru all of the gears and make sure it engages in all gears. Check fluid levels and then run the take the truck for a ride. Put 15 or 20 miles on it to make sure its warmed up to normal operation temp and everything is working ok. Check fluid levels a few times in the next few days to make sure everything is ok.
PS, If you find a small rod with a round plug on it in your transmission pan don't worry about it. This is the dip stick plug the factory installs in the transmission until it is installed into the truck. When they install the dipstick they just push this plugh into the pan. Good luck
Hi guys I just found this site its a great one. I have a 97 with the 4.6 with 88,000 on herand the tranny has the same shudder to it. I changed the fluid once and it went away for about two months. I didn't drain the lines like 36racin did. Is this a commom problem with these trucks. I bought it new and really don't want to part with her.
If you only changed the fluid in the pan you didn't change enough fluid to fix the shudder problem. You need to change the flid in the pan and the torque converter. Here is a procedure how to do it:
Changing ATF Fluid in a E4OD and 4R100 Transmission
I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.
Things you need to get started:
The E4OD and 4R100 transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON ATF [do NOT buy MERCON V!]. Ford also warns against using a fluid that has a dual MERCON and MERCON V rating. You may use either conventional or synthetic, as long as it meets the above requirements.
The 4R70W transmission system holds about 14 quarts of ATF. The 4R70W uses MERCON V, and the MERCON V can be used on older 4R70W transmissions that were factory filled with MERCON.
I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.
Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.
A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!
If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.
If you are changing the filter, drain the pan if your pan has a drain plug. If you are not changing the filter, jump to step 4.
If you don't have a drain plug, go to step 4 to pump out the pan, preventing an ATF shower! Return here after step 4 and one pass through step 5a.
Remove the pan and clean the pan and gasket, including the magnet on the bottom of the pan. Fuzz on the magnet is normal, that's why it is there!
Change the filter. It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.
Replace the pan, using the reusable gasket.
At this point you can drain the torque converter. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.
To drain the torque converter remove the shield (or the rubber plug in some models) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you also drain the torque converter, then the old ATF will not come out the return line until after the torque converter has filled.
If you drained the pan, pour new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube until you have added about as much as you earlier drained from the pan. At this point overfilling by no more than one quart won't hurt anything.
Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the fluid comes out.
This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.
Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine. Refill through the dipstick tube with the same amount as you just pumped out.
NOTE: If you drained the pan and the torque converter, fluid will not run out until you fill the pan a second time. Run the engine for 30 seconds, then stop and add six more quarts.
Repeat step 5 until you have added 19 quarts with of new ATF to the system with an E4OD or 4R100. Repeat until you have added 13 quarts with the 4R70W.
At least one time while the engine is running move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.
Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.
Check the fluid level and use the last quart to top off.
Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.
Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.
Changing ATF Fluid in a E4OD and 4R100 Transmission
I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.
Things you need to get started:
The E4OD and 4R100 transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON ATF [do NOT buy MERCON V!]. Ford also warns against using a fluid that has a dual MERCON and MERCON V rating. You may use either conventional or synthetic, as long as it meets the above requirements.
The 4R70W transmission system holds about 14 quarts of ATF. The 4R70W uses MERCON V, and the MERCON V can be used on older 4R70W transmissions that were factory filled with MERCON.
I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.
Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.
A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!
If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.
If you are changing the filter, drain the pan if your pan has a drain plug. If you are not changing the filter, jump to step 4.
If you don't have a drain plug, go to step 4 to pump out the pan, preventing an ATF shower! Return here after step 4 and one pass through step 5a.
Remove the pan and clean the pan and gasket, including the magnet on the bottom of the pan. Fuzz on the magnet is normal, that's why it is there!
Change the filter. It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.
Replace the pan, using the reusable gasket.
At this point you can drain the torque converter. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.
To drain the torque converter remove the shield (or the rubber plug in some models) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you also drain the torque converter, then the old ATF will not come out the return line until after the torque converter has filled.
If you drained the pan, pour new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube until you have added about as much as you earlier drained from the pan. At this point overfilling by no more than one quart won't hurt anything.
Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the fluid comes out.
This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.
Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine. Refill through the dipstick tube with the same amount as you just pumped out.
NOTE: If you drained the pan and the torque converter, fluid will not run out until you fill the pan a second time. Run the engine for 30 seconds, then stop and add six more quarts.
Repeat step 5 until you have added 19 quarts with of new ATF to the system with an E4OD or 4R100. Repeat until you have added 13 quarts with the 4R70W.
At least one time while the engine is running move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.
Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.
Check the fluid level and use the last quart to top off.
Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.
Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.
Well guys, I changed the fluid and filter, found the little plug left in the pan and discarded. Also, my 97 had a drain plug on the torque converter so I drained it also. 36racin, you were right on the money, 11.5 quarts exactly. Ran it to the mountains to go skiing last night, totally different truck, shifted like a new one. Thanks to all who replied, you guys saved me from trading this one in on a new one (hey wait a minute, I could have a new truck).. Seriously though, lots of sharp people posting on this board, Merry Xmas to all.. RBG


