What happened to my trans?
I have a 1994 F150 4x4 with an automatic transmission (It is the electronic overdrive trans with the on/off button on the end of the shifter). Driving down a dirt road the other day the transmission seemed to jump out of gear as if in neutral when I encountered an especially rough section of the road. I was able to get the truck back in gear by moving the shifter from drive 2, to drive several times, and it seemed to be alright for a short time. I made it home and parked the truck on a very slight incline (unleval pavement), put it in park, shut it off and got out. The truck started rolling. I then got back in the truck and started the engine, and tried putting the truck in drive, then reverse, then park all to no avail. I have had a gear selection problem previously, but fixed that problem months ago. It was not a trans problem but the gear selector shaft that mounts on the steering colum that controls the cable, had cracked. I replaced it and that problem was solved. Could being on a rough road damage a transmission? I thought maybe the cable adjustment at the trans was out of whack, but after consulting a repair manual, I readjusted the linkage to no avail.
When I tried to put the trans in park I just got a gear grinding sound. Could this just be a shifter problem? Is there something that could have got whacked out of adjustment (linkage)? Are there things I could check, or look for to diagnose this problem before having to take it to a transmission shop?
HELPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!
When I tried to put the trans in park I just got a gear grinding sound. Could this just be a shifter problem? Is there something that could have got whacked out of adjustment (linkage)? Are there things I could check, or look for to diagnose this problem before having to take it to a transmission shop?
HELPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!
It sounds to me damage may already be done.
If you read around the past posts, you'll soon find out... ATs are nothing to mess with if you want yours to be reliable.
Depending on where you're at, Weller Auto are pretty fine folks. Don't call, go down and talk to them.
--Just my 2 pence-- Good luck!
If you read around the past posts, you'll soon find out... ATs are nothing to mess with if you want yours to be reliable.
Depending on where you're at, Weller Auto are pretty fine folks. Don't call, go down and talk to them.
--Just my 2 pence-- Good luck!
Same thing happened to my 4x4, 92', I thought trans to, fortunately my cousin owns a trans shop. Turns out it is the transfer case. I built it once, new chain, small parts kit and it did it again. Talked to a ford mechanic and he said ford transfer cases wear the front shift fork in the case, $28 and 3 hours later it was fixed. Shift fork wears thin and alows the gear to jump or engage/disengage. Don't forget the transfer case drives the rear axle even in 2wd. Hope thats it, it's really easy fix
CCNseven, I wondered if it could be the transfer case when it originaly happened, perhaps the chain was slipping from being stretched. I've had a leaking problem with this transfer case, it is leaking from where the transfer case halves bolt together, and I was told that there is no gasket between the halves, the manufacturor uses silicone to seal them. Perhaps it was dry (didn't check yet).
Now the main question, transfer case damage could result in the grinding noises I hear when trying to put the transmission in park? I understand the power is transfered through the transfer case to the driveshaft whether in 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive, but a trsansfer case problem could cause the grinding noise when trying to put the transmission in park? Please respond.
Now the main question, transfer case damage could result in the grinding noises I hear when trying to put the transmission in park? I understand the power is transfered through the transfer case to the driveshaft whether in 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive, but a trsansfer case problem could cause the grinding noise when trying to put the transmission in park? Please respond.
I don't think the transfer case has anything to do with the noise when putting it in park, could it be from messing with the linkage? Might want a professional to look at it and say for sure.
The transfer case does not have a gasket, neither does the tail cone on the case or the surface where the transfer case bolts to the tranny. These 3 places are sealed with rtv, or I prefer permatex#2. If it is the transfer case the job is not hard to do, just drop the two drive shafs, unbolt the transmisson mount from crossmember, use a board to lift up the tranny and pull the mount out from under it. Takes to long to remove cross member to fool with it. The hardest part is the top two bolts where the casse bolts to the tranny. After dropping the case its very easy to split, first remove the split rings from the two driveshaft outputs, then remove all the bolts that hold the case together. Put the rear end drive shaft through a hole in the table and the front end shaft looking up at you, then pull apart.There are almost no lose parts to have to worry about, if you have a chain, small parts kit and shift forks it will be pretty straight forward. Took about 45 min to get mine out, 1hr to clean and build and another hr to get back in and fill with oil. I also spent an extra $40 and bought a new rear end yoke, mine had a little slack in it.
Had to do it twice though before I figured out that the shift forks had worn thin:o
Sorry I don't know more about the noise in park
The transfer case does not have a gasket, neither does the tail cone on the case or the surface where the transfer case bolts to the tranny. These 3 places are sealed with rtv, or I prefer permatex#2. If it is the transfer case the job is not hard to do, just drop the two drive shafs, unbolt the transmisson mount from crossmember, use a board to lift up the tranny and pull the mount out from under it. Takes to long to remove cross member to fool with it. The hardest part is the top two bolts where the casse bolts to the tranny. After dropping the case its very easy to split, first remove the split rings from the two driveshaft outputs, then remove all the bolts that hold the case together. Put the rear end drive shaft through a hole in the table and the front end shaft looking up at you, then pull apart.There are almost no lose parts to have to worry about, if you have a chain, small parts kit and shift forks it will be pretty straight forward. Took about 45 min to get mine out, 1hr to clean and build and another hr to get back in and fill with oil. I also spent an extra $40 and bought a new rear end yoke, mine had a little slack in it.
Had to do it twice though before I figured out that the shift forks had worn thin:o
Sorry I don't know more about the noise in park
Thanks for your input ccnseven, I've got a transmission mech. friend, but he's off in the woods right now looking for Bambi's daddy (deer hunting season ya know), hopefully when he gets back I can get a little help from him; might be a good side job for him.Anyway, appreciate your help, Thanks.
When you figure it out fur sure us know, I'm intrested to know if it's the same problem I had.
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Will do ccnseven, my trans man is coming over Sat. (Nov. 23) to diagnose, to see if he can fix it at my house, or if I have to have it towed to where he works. Will let ya know when I find out.
dukester,
Hope you got your ride back together. If you still question the transfer case - shift forks, I would give them serious consideration. I had the same thing happen ( even the grinding noise when putting it in park) to my 83 GMC. The main fork wore through so the gears could slip into neutral. The truck had no power to the wheels. The key is that grinding noise. If you've ever shifted your t-case into neutral with your tranny in gear, you will get that noise when shifting into park. What happens is that the engine (at idle) will be turning the internals of the tranny but it will be cut off from the drive wheels. When you shift into park the internals are still rotating and the momentum will cause the grinding against the parking pawl. To avoid grinding the parking pawl, shut the engine of first and wait a second or two. My case was worn out form years of plowing snow so I replaced it , but changing the shift forks might be the only thing you need. Good Luck!
Hope you got your ride back together. If you still question the transfer case - shift forks, I would give them serious consideration. I had the same thing happen ( even the grinding noise when putting it in park) to my 83 GMC. The main fork wore through so the gears could slip into neutral. The truck had no power to the wheels. The key is that grinding noise. If you've ever shifted your t-case into neutral with your tranny in gear, you will get that noise when shifting into park. What happens is that the engine (at idle) will be turning the internals of the tranny but it will be cut off from the drive wheels. When you shift into park the internals are still rotating and the momentum will cause the grinding against the parking pawl. To avoid grinding the parking pawl, shut the engine of first and wait a second or two. My case was worn out form years of plowing snow so I replaced it , but changing the shift forks might be the only thing you need. Good Luck!
What happened to my trans?
Sorry I didn't get back sooner ccnseven, My trans man came over, pulled the pan and told me I didn,t have any gears, so rather than have him pull the trans and take it with him, which I thought could create more problems than it would solve, I ended up having the truck towed to a local trans shop. Had a total rebuild on the trans and had the transfer case gone over with worn parts replaced. They charged me $2,065 for everything, with a six month warrantee. A lot of money, but cheaper than a new truck. Sems to be functioning very well, am satisfied so far.


