Towing & Hauling

Towing RV...

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Old 09-07-2001, 02:39 PM
Blake Bowden's Avatar
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Towing RV...

I just got a 2001 28'ft HiLo trailer. I was towing it with a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins, and of course it wasn't too much of a problem. Anyway, now that I have a 2001 F150 Screw 5.4L I have some questions, especially since I don't have the Towing Package (ARGH):

1. I'am almost positive that once I attach the trailer to the hitch it will "sag" the tail end. I have a weight distributing hitch coming in, will this help it? Should I get different shocks? What about those airbags for the back. I think they're adjustable.

2. My supercrew has poor handling. I mean I can rock the truck side to side without much effort. Or if I'am driving I can turn the wheel back and forth and it rocks like I'am on a jetski in the gulf. Anyway to "beef" it up? I'am willing to sacrifice ride quality a bit as I would hate to tow this trailer in high winds. It would probably drive me more than me driving the trailer.

3. I'am pretty sure the 5.4L comes with the tranny cooler. Am I correct?

4. Anyone have a recommnded electronic brake controlller?


Thanks for any input.
 
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Old 09-07-2001, 05:38 PM
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Unhappy

The only way to tow is with the distribution hitch and sway bars. As you probably already know, you hitch up the trailer, then jack it up until the rear of the truck has a "rake" to it. Then attach the bars and adjust the chain so you still have to "force" it a little to it's locked position. Lower the jack and see where the truck sits. It should be basically as level as when it's empty. Adjust accordingly if it's too high or too low.

As for the side to side motion, I'm guessing you probalby only have "P" rated tires. These are Passenger tires and don't have very stiff sidewalls. You need to get some "LT" rated tires with a load range of at least "C". Maybe even "D". This will make the ride a bit stiffer, but the side to side handling will be much improved.

Airbags are really only for payload, since you can't attach a distribution hitch to a load of gravel! Won't do much with the trailer. Maybe some helper "overload" springs would help.

I'm not sure about the tranny cooler on a rig that does not have the factory tow package. If you have a cooler, it'll be on the passenger side near the bottom of the radiator and look just like a very small version of the radiator. You may also see a cooler on the drivers side. This is a power steering cooler. Not sure why we need these, but there you go.

Can't comment on a controller, but search this forum on it and there are plenty of others who have them.

Just curious.......... Why did you get rid of the Dodge? My dad has one with the 24 valve Cummins and just loves it. Tows a 8K travel trailer and still gets 15mpg!
 
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Old 09-07-2001, 06:10 PM
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I agree with Mitch on the hitch & anti-sway bar. With the load-leveling springs, you can actually transfer more weight to the truck's front wheels than to the rear.

Those Hi-Lows (un less changed in recent years) are heavier than they look -- but the lack of wind-resistance more than compensates. Unless the tongue weight is excessive (more than 10% of total trailer weight), you won't need extra springing -- UNLESS you want a stiffer ride.

You can also find P-series tires in the XL (stands for eXtra Load) variety -- and they (my experience is with P235/70R15XL's) pump up to 42 PSI at max load instead of 35 (or so) -- which gives them a bit better lateral stability.

I use a Sentinel model Tekonsha brake controller that I transferred from my 97 F-150. They've probably made improvements to newer models, but I've been happy with the performance of that unit.

Happy Cramping*


Jim


*Cramping (v): having all the conveniences of home -- only smaller.
 
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Old 09-07-2001, 08:00 PM
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Blake,

I towed a 25' Sportsmen with my SCrew and it sagged the rear about 5" before the WD was set. The tongue weight was about 550 lbs.. If you add the hitch and tranny cooler you will have the factory tow package since the super cooling radiator was never installed. I towed my trailer a half dozen times and ended up trading up to a F250 Crew Cab just for safety, I was over my GCVW with the SCrew and tailer loaded up for a road trip. The truck handled it ok, it really worked on grades. If you have a 4x4 you should have the LT tires, mine came with LT's from the factory and I just pumped up to around 40 to 45 when towing and it helped the handling some. I use a Draw-Tite brake controller for 1&2 axle trailers and have't had a problem with it. Good luck towing that rig and when you hook it up have the truck & trailer weighed, you'll be suprised how close to max weight you may be.

John
 
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Old 09-07-2001, 10:50 PM
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Thanks for the replies. Yea, we weighed the HiLo and packed it's around 5900PDS. They're a little heavy but they handle excellent as I towed it with my dodge. I don't have my receiver in yet so I haven't towed anything. I'am still breaking in my truck..haven't even had the first oil change yet. I'll get around 3000-4000 miles on her before I take the trailer out.
 
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Old 09-19-2001, 12:38 PM
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The other posts have good solutions to your problem. The weight distributing hitch is a must. Be sure to spend a little time to properly set up the weight distributing system for best results.
If the rear still sags too much after setting up the w/d hitch you
may want something adjustable such as rear air bags so you could return to a normal ride when not towing.

I have RS9000 shocks on the rear of my F-250 Light Duty and they help in reducing sway but the real problem is the 255/70/16 passenger car style tires. I also recently installed a Hellwig rear sway bar but have not towed the travel trailer since installation.

The Tekonsha Sentinel is a good, easily adjustable brake controller. ($80-$90) There are other good ones, just be sure to get one that can automatically vary it's output with the rate of braking.
Come and Take It!
 



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