Suggestions on radiator and tranny cooler.
Suggestions on radiator and tranny cooler.
Hi guys. I've been lurking for awhile but now I need a little of your expertise. I just purchased a 2000 Expedition E.B. 4x4 with the 5.4 engine. I doesn't have the Load Leveling Suspension or the trailer towing package. I'm trying to get it set up to pull my '95 Cobra R in a 20-22ft enclosed trailer. I'm looking at a little under 7000lbs with tools.
I plan on changing out the shocks this winter when the Rancho 9000s go on sale. Maybe a front and rear swaybar kit too.
I've already had a Draw-tite weight distribution hitch installed with the electric brake controller. The guy at the hitch place didn't think I would need the sway control bar. Do you think I'll need it?
I've gotten prices from Ford on their HD radiator ($352) and the tranny cooler ($85). I've learned from modding my Cobra that aftermarket parts are usually cheaper and of better quality than Ford O.E. parts. Are there better radiators and tranny coolers out there for less or equal money?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thx
I plan on changing out the shocks this winter when the Rancho 9000s go on sale. Maybe a front and rear swaybar kit too.
I've already had a Draw-tite weight distribution hitch installed with the electric brake controller. The guy at the hitch place didn't think I would need the sway control bar. Do you think I'll need it?
I've gotten prices from Ford on their HD radiator ($352) and the tranny cooler ($85). I've learned from modding my Cobra that aftermarket parts are usually cheaper and of better quality than Ford O.E. parts. Are there better radiators and tranny coolers out there for less or equal money?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thx
I think you'd be ok to skip the rad upgrade. But the tranny cooler is a must. Igot mine from the Ford site listed below. I think it was about $50. Nice solid design, stacked plate. I think it is the same as the B&M and I think it is rate around 20,000GVW.
Sway Control - Get It
I can't believe these guys at the dealers - don't get a sway control? Are they nuts?
A sway control costs <$100 and can save you from a horrific accident if you get into a situation with gusty crosswinds. The Expedition has a very short wheelbase and a high centre of gravity - exactly what you need to get sway and lose control. Then you will have a wrecked truck and a wrecked Cobra
Think of it as cheap insurance! Just back off the tension when you are moving around the paddock area so the truck/trailer is easier to maneuver.
Ian
A sway control costs <$100 and can save you from a horrific accident if you get into a situation with gusty crosswinds. The Expedition has a very short wheelbase and a high centre of gravity - exactly what you need to get sway and lose control. Then you will have a wrecked truck and a wrecked Cobra
Think of it as cheap insurance! Just back off the tension when you are moving around the paddock area so the truck/trailer is easier to maneuver.
Ian
Thanks for the replies.
One of the reasons that I'd like to go with the radiator also is that the dealership is going to pay half of what ever it takes to get it where I need it. The cheaper I can get the parts for the cheaper my half will be.
I will be looking into getting the sway bar. I was kinda skeptical when he told me that I wouldn't need it. The short wheelbase has already got me conserned about sway.
Thx again.
One of the reasons that I'd like to go with the radiator also is that the dealership is going to pay half of what ever it takes to get it where I need it. The cheaper I can get the parts for the cheaper my half will be.
I will be looking into getting the sway bar. I was kinda skeptical when he told me that I wouldn't need it. The short wheelbase has already got me conserned about sway.
Thx again.
I'm towing a boat that weighs around 7200 LBS. Not sure how much it helps but I've been in some heavy cross winds and it felt fine. However, I did replace the rear anti-sway bar, polyurethane front swaybar bushing kit and installed new shocks.
For now I'm pulling it with the OEM Class III receiver alone. I'm trying to find a Class IV receiver but so far no dice except for long wheel base trucks. Next option is weight distro set up however, Drawtite says that WD can't be used with boat trailers with surge brakes, and Reese says sure, but instructed me to set the tension so that the only time I'd get any assistance from the WD is when I bounce up and down. They say that's the best set up to allow the surge brakes to work well. So I take that to mean they say it's OK to run without WD most of the time. (I don't like that and I know that's not really what they said, but it's effectivly what I'd be doing).
So, for now, I'm towing (not far though) with just the OEM hitch and of course appropriatly rated ball mount and ball. It tows great as it is but I'd like to have the perfect setup. I've had to just about slam o the brakes 2 times and she sat down and stopped quick and straight.
For now I'm pulling it with the OEM Class III receiver alone. I'm trying to find a Class IV receiver but so far no dice except for long wheel base trucks. Next option is weight distro set up however, Drawtite says that WD can't be used with boat trailers with surge brakes, and Reese says sure, but instructed me to set the tension so that the only time I'd get any assistance from the WD is when I bounce up and down. They say that's the best set up to allow the surge brakes to work well. So I take that to mean they say it's OK to run without WD most of the time. (I don't like that and I know that's not really what they said, but it's effectivly what I'd be doing).
So, for now, I'm towing (not far though) with just the OEM hitch and of course appropriatly rated ball mount and ball. It tows great as it is but I'd like to have the perfect setup. I've had to just about slam o the brakes 2 times and she sat down and stopped quick and straight.


