Sway control question
Sway control question
Does anybody fully understand how the F-150 sway control works. I seem to get a lot of sway from my trailer. Took truck and trailer to trailer dealer and says the wd hitch is setup correctly. Camper is a new 33 ft. and 6800 lbs. Truck is 2011 screw 5.5 bed with ecoboost.
Does anybody fully understand how the F-150 sway control works. I seem to get a lot of sway from my trailer. Took truck and trailer to trailer dealer and says the wd hitch is setup correctly. Camper is a new 33 ft. and 6800 lbs. Truck is 2011 screw 5.5 bed with ecoboost.
Spent 3 hours last night working on a 2011 SCREW with Max Town with the trailer sway and RCS issues.
Had 2 warnings pop up after hooking up a gooseneck trailer. It included a Brake System warning as well.... Long story short there really wasn't a problem and the truck turned off its warnings after reaching 35mph and they didn't return.
I bet your truck doesn't recognize the trailer is swaying without WD/sway bars on a bumper pull trailer.
After doing a LOT of research I know how the system works.
It uses the brakes and ABS valve system to pulse a specific brake corner to try and counter trailer brake sway that effects the truck. Like stated above it is a supplemental system. This is on the truck only and does not engage the trailer brakes in any way. Of course the trailer brakes functioned correctly/normally with the integrated brake controller.
My opinion is it may help, but with the amount of added stuff/toys/gagetry now added to the new trucks you are asking for problems like I encountered.
They sway has to be pretty extreme before the system activates.
There is a TSB on the RCS system. They need a program update.
Had 2 warnings pop up after hooking up a gooseneck trailer. It included a Brake System warning as well.... Long story short there really wasn't a problem and the truck turned off its warnings after reaching 35mph and they didn't return.
I bet your truck doesn't recognize the trailer is swaying without WD/sway bars on a bumper pull trailer.
After doing a LOT of research I know how the system works.
It uses the brakes and ABS valve system to pulse a specific brake corner to try and counter trailer brake sway that effects the truck. Like stated above it is a supplemental system. This is on the truck only and does not engage the trailer brakes in any way. Of course the trailer brakes functioned correctly/normally with the integrated brake controller.
My opinion is it may help, but with the amount of added stuff/toys/gagetry now added to the new trucks you are asking for problems like I encountered.
They sway has to be pretty extreme before the system activates.
There is a TSB on the RCS system. They need a program update.
Last edited by Colorado Osprey; Jun 10, 2011 at 08:46 AM.
I'm confused on what your problem is. Is it with the electronic trailer sway control system in the truck or how the truck feels pulling the trailer down the road when passing larger profile vehicles (semis, other full sized trucks and vans)?
The trailer tends to sway during normal changes of road conditions, going down a hill etc. Normal sway conditions let's say. I too noticed that upon arriving home the rear truck brakes smelled hot. I am wondering weather I should tighten the WD bars another link to give it more friction.
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Gotta have the WD set up correctly with the 10-15% tongue weight. Too much WD to the front causes a light rear end, so the sway pushes it around. Too little WD to the front causes steering control issues. I made some changes to my truck last year, mid summer which really upset my rock solid Reese setup. It was scary and unsafe for the last two trips last year. I just spent a couple hours with it Saturday and got it solid again, up to 70mph and passing opposing traffic on 2-lane roads. What a difference that makes.
Who set up the WD hitch? There are lots of people who buy TT's and the dealers do not set them up correctly. The TT should be level to slightly nose down. Measure from the frame, front and back. I'm at 1" lower front than back over about 28'. Also Measure the suspension of the truck, distance from ground to highest part of the wheel well. Empty = XX.X inches. TT hooked up but no WD is YY.Y inches. WD applied should be half the delta for your newer truck. My generation says return to stock height. You'll probably find it goes up about 1.5-2", so get it to 0.75 to 1" would be good. You may need to adjust the height of the ball as well as angle depending on what hitch you have.
Who set up the WD hitch? There are lots of people who buy TT's and the dealers do not set them up correctly. The TT should be level to slightly nose down. Measure from the frame, front and back. I'm at 1" lower front than back over about 28'. Also Measure the suspension of the truck, distance from ground to highest part of the wheel well. Empty = XX.X inches. TT hooked up but no WD is YY.Y inches. WD applied should be half the delta for your newer truck. My generation says return to stock height. You'll probably find it goes up about 1.5-2", so get it to 0.75 to 1" would be good. You may need to adjust the height of the ball as well as angle depending on what hitch you have.



