I have a 2006 F150 5.4 3.73 gears full tow package Looking at this https://www.rvsearch.com/findrv/inde...60/vid-470146/
what else should i need for my truck beside a Brake control and whats the best place to get a good one at

 

Weight distribution hitch and a brake controller. Best controller is a Tekonsha Prodigy, buy it with the Ford plugin harness.

 

That thing is going to be 8k+ loaded. Might want to think about a 250.

 

same advice here

 

Naw, it's probably only got a #7000-#7500 GVWR on it.. Check out what it is for sure and if it is over #8000, then you will still be able to move it, but it won't be a whole lotta fun...

Good luck!
Mitch

 

Per the Keystone web site, payload on that trailer is 1596lbs, so it might not be over 8k, but it will be real close. Definitely over 7500.

 

Max loaded weight will be right around 7800lbs, so you will be fine. Just get a good weight distribution hitch, make sure that it is setup properly, and a brake control and you are all set.

 

what is so special about a weight distribution hitch, hows it work... just curious

 

what size WD hitch should i get i noticed thy come by lbs i wanted to get one that had the sway ontrol built in too

 

The trailer you are looking at has a tongue weight of 780 lbs. So how much weight do you plan on carrying in the bed? If not much go with the 1000lb unit, if you will be hauling an ATV for example then get a 1400lb.

 

The weight may be fine... it is the gas mileage that I would not enjoy.

 

Gas mileage is not affected much by wight unless you drive in very hilly terrain. The aero drag that any TT has brings it down the most.

Anyway, I'd look for a lighter trailer. Shipping wight is at least 10% less than what you'll drive it home at and then you add dishes, food, water, etc. Since you are looking in PA, are you willing to drive to Dayton, Ohio? Does something like the Rockwood 2701 interest you? RV Wholesalers has good pricing on the lines they carry and Rockwoods seem to be a good value and relatively light weight.

Shorse, check out this and this for WD info.

 

At the minumum, get #1000 bars. You could probably get away with a simple EAZ-Lift setup which is just the HD hitch head and bars. You could add a friction 'sway control' device to this (those bars that attach to the little extension ***** that mount on the hitch head and the trailer A frame).

Or, you can go to the Equal-I-Zer brand of hitch and it has a 'built in' friction sway control in the design of the system. The other one is called a 'Dual Cam' and it uses more of a mechanical form of keeping the alignment of the truck and trailer straight. The top of the line hitches are the Hensley and the Pull Rite hitch designs. These will run in the thousands of dollars, so if you have deep pockets and have a sway problem, this is the route for you!

Now, each system has it's pros and cons, so you will also need to figure on them too...

The simple HD system, you just hitch up, set the bars and go. you can usually hitch up at any angle.

The built in systems are basically the same, and can be hitched up at angles, but there is a limit to where you will have difficulty hooking up the bars at some point.

The high end systems seem to be more restrictive in the initial hitching and unhitching, and hitch angles make a big difference from what I hear....

I only have the simple HD setup for my rig and it's fine, but then I'm not towing all that much either...

Until you setup your own specific rig and see how it tows, there is not any one system that is 'best', but you just have to decide where to start, so maybe for a few hundred $$ more, starting off with the Dual Cam or Equal-I-Zer would be a good place to start for your setup?

Good luck!

Mitch

 

Also look at the Reese Straight-Line system. IMO, it is a superior anti-sway as it works to prevent it and to "right" your trailer. As far as the weight, a lot depends upon how far you intend to tow and the elevation changes. 200 miles on flat road to the lake is a lot different than 3,000 miles to the mountains. I wouldn't pull with this combination for a long, hilly trip. We pulled 5,000 pounds for 3,200 miles to and through the Rockies. That was enough for me. F150, 3.73s, 5.4L

 

When loaded this trailer will be AT LEAST 7500 lbs. and if you are like a lot of folks who pack everything with them then the actual weight could be far more.

You will be at the limit of towing capacity for your rig. Some people don't mind doing this. Its just personal preference.

I have almost the same truck as you and my loaded trailer comes in at 6,000 lbs. Could I do more? Yes. Do I want to? No.