Probably a stupid ? , but here goes anyway...

I have a 24' boat that is fiberglass w/cuddy cabin and a 225HP Evinrude outboard. (Boat is 28' overall w/engine). It holds 90 gallons of fuel. (no water). the trailer is a tandem alxe and i cannot lift the trailer whatsoever from the tongue (<i think thats the correct term).I do not know the weight. The trailer does not have brakes......... My question is do you think my 05 FX4 screw 5.4 (18" wheels & 3:73) will have trouble towing this. I have been towing the boat with a 92 Bronco 5.0 and there was no rear sag on the truck but definately a power issue. Flat driving was no problem and hills (& bridges) were ok as long as i didnt have to take off from a dead stop. One way is usually 10 miles to the boat ramp..

 

If you have trouble going...you'll have trouble stopping....get trailer brakes now.

It sounds like the tandem axles are taking the brunt of the weight so it is not execeeding your hitch tongue weight, but overall weight might be exceeded. Remember, the Super Crews have the least towing capacity because they are the heaviest. The 18" wheels also have the least load carring capacity of all the truck tire options. Next, the 3.73 gears are highway, run around gears, not towing. The 5.4 probably won't be straining, but your tranny probably won't like you. Transmissions are Expensive!

If it were me, I would continue doing what I was doing and not risk the newer truck. Or, go get a Super Duty??

 

Not knowing what brand and model of your boat, I would still guess that you're in the 4-5,000 lb. range for the boat. A tandem trailer should be around 1,500 - 2,000 lbs. So, depending on how much everything weighs, you might be close to your truck's limits. You also didn't say if your truck is equipped with the optional Class III towing package. If it isn't, I wouldn't recommend towing that much. Even if it is, you need trailer brakes!

 

I'm really surprised that your trailer is not equipped with the standard 'surge' brake setup that "most" boat trailers have these days..... A long time ago, we had a 18' Firberform ski boat with a 350 Chevy in the back and it had to weigh #5000 as it rolled down the road... That trailer was a single axle job, and did not have brakes on it..... We towed it with a 1971 F250 and never had a problem with it, except on slimy boat ramps!! (2wd open 4.10 diff...)

It also did not have a tongue jack!! Dad and I would have to put our backs against the hull and leg press it on the hitch! Oh, those were the days!!

For a 10 mile trip, you should be "ok", as long as you don't have a panic stop..... Leave LOTS of space in front of you and take it slow and easy.... The truck should have no problem with the weight, but with no brakes on the trailer, it could produce a 'pucker' event that you don't want to experience!!

Good luck,

Mitch

 

As of 1998 surge brakes cannot be installed on a trailer as a new braking system. You can repair a current surge trailer, but not install a new set.

To install new brakes, they must be electric or air. Obviously most of us are driving light duty trucks so air is not an option. What we are left with is electric.

I've been thinking about this boat all day.....lets say that the trailer has 4 rails about 30 feet long, rollers, 2 axles, bumpers, winch, say 12 foot tongue center, I'd say that the trailer has to be close 2500 lbs., if not more. The trailer has to be at least 30 feet long for a 29 foot boat. A 29 foot boat! If it was a flatbed car hauler, the wood alone for the floor would weigh about 2000 lbs. I can't see the boat weighing less than 3000 lbs. So the combined weight shouldn't be less than 5500 lbs. It is probably quite a bit more.

Again, trailer brakes....Super Duty.....

 

Thanks for your input guys..Just to answer some of your questions the best i can
1. Colorado , you mention 3:73 are run around gears. What do you think are the best gears. Keep in mind i only tow this boat appx. 10 x a year. 95% is flat terrain.
2. 2Stroked, the boat is a 1977 Angler cuddy cabin which i had a custom aluminum hardtop put on it.The boat origonally had an I/O but the preivous owner converted it to an outboard. Whoever did this did an awesome job.
3. Mitch, the trailer had brakes on it but were removed by the previous owner. I would like to get them repaired but need to find a reputable person.
(the trailer is a 1986 EZ loader) . And i pretty much do what Mitch says. I take it slow and easy and leave plenty of room. Also there is no major highway driving to do to get to the ramp...

 

Also to add to my last post...I have been towing this boat with my 92 Bronco for the last 7 years and i have the classIV hidden hitch....No tranny cooler and had no troubles..Mabye pushing my luck with the Bronco ,but now the 05 supercrew has the tow package and more power...I also need to find a place to get the boat weighed...Once again thanks for your responses

 

Even for boat trailers?? That seems like an odd combo seeing how water gets inside the drums, doesn't it?

 

I'd check your local laws. Here in New Your State, surge brakes are still quite legal. We sell brand new boat trailers with them every day. In fact, we have not sold a boat trailer with electric brakes for as long as I can remember. Do get something though.

 

Weight dristribution will not work for surge brakes as well as there are no provisions for emergency or break-away braking. The break-away has been required on all trailers with brakes after 1998. So no, they are not illegal..but, it is illegal to have trailer brakes without a emergency break-away. Because there is no break-away, in essence they become illegal.

Trailer manufacurer's make trailers every day that are not legal. Heck, even most cops don't know what's legal or not on trailers.

If you feel you must, go to DOT's web site and look up Title 49. It's very dry reading. Use the search and look up trailer brakes. You'll get about 100 hits concerning lights, hook-ups, brakes, and regs.

** side note **

Always unplug your trailer wiring harness when backing into the lake. So the trailer brakes will not be working while floating the boat. Also, electric brakes don't work in reverse anyway. Don't forget to plug them back in for the trip home.

 

Just had to chime in to clear up some misinformation.
First, surge brakes can be compatable with a weight distributing system. The Original Equal-i-zer® Sway Control Hitch can help you achieve worry free towing for your boating adventures. In the past boat owners have been limited by their inability to use weight distribution with their surge brake trailers. Equal-i-zer®'s unique sway brackets allow total compatibility with surge brakes.

That is from their website and they have been selling setups for several years now.
Second, boat trailers with surge brakes DO come with breakaway braking systems built into the surge brake couplers. There is a cable attached to the tow vehicle and upon a breakaway the brakes are applied.
Third, a tandam axle trailer for a 24' boat could be any where from 1100lbs.-2000lbs. but will most likely be about 1500lbs. give or take a little. Trailers are fit to the hull so the dimensions for the motor are a moot point.
Fourth, I'm not sure about the legality of it but Champion Trailers sells full surge brake systems for trailers (couplers, brake units, lines, etc.) all in one kit.
And finally, brake systems for boats are available in hydraulic surge drum, hydraulic surge disc, electric over hydraulic and yes there is now full electric for boat trailers (all stainless components.)
I'm definitely not trying to upset anybody but some of the information being provided was not quite correct.
Jetter

P.S. One thing I completely agree with is that if your towing this much weight with out brakes of some sort you are being very foolish. Remember it's not just your life your taking a chance with it's everybody on the road around you.

 

I hate to disagree with C.O. because I usually agree 100% - but - on the disconnecting the harness thing I have to. I no longer recommend that practice. I used to recommend it before traler lighting made it into the 20th century. Yes, old (non water tight) lights sometimes blew when exposing a hot bulb to cold water. There was a theory that said if you disconnected your harness, that couldn't happen. Hmmm, the bulb was still warm even if it was disconnected... There was aslo a theory that the (now) exposed bulb would short out. OK, maybe I could buy that. Truth is, with modern trailer wiring and water tight lighting (especially LED's), You don't have the first problem. The second problem? That's what fuses are for.

Oh yea, and the other big problem with disconnecting was remembering to re-connect. I can't tell you how many of our customers ran all the way home without lights - and maybe without electric brakes - and had me replace the ground down / wiped out pigtail the next day. These are my personal opinions though.

 

Thanks all....I can take it in the lip.

I just want RobNY to be safe.

 

Colorado Osprey, your absolutely correct and it's debatable how safe the current setup he's running is, ten miles or not things can happen fast.
Jetter

 

I still disconnect the lights. Not because the lights will blow , but because i use the boat in salt water and when i first got this boat i went thru 2 sets of light setups ... they corroded out in 2 or 3 trips. Then someone told me to disconnect the lights before dropping the boat in..I have the same lights now for 3 yrs..