I cranked up the torsion bars on my new truck at least 1.5+ inches and took it in for an alignment. After it was hooked up to the machine, it was still within specs. No alignment needed. Amazing considering how "nose down" the truck came from the factory.

 

Maybe the alignment was off to start with and you "fixed" it by cranking up the bars. Mine was off after I cranked mine, but it may have been off to start with. I would like to see someone have the alignment checked, crank up the torsion bars and then have it checked again. Then we would know for sure how much cranking the bars effects the alignment.

 

I turned mine approx 7 turns left and right side for a front end lift of about 1". I did this at about 1000 miles. Checked alignment and it was still within spec. Truck has 23k miles now and no unusual tire wear. I agree the truck was way too low in the front from the factory. Front end will sag once Torsion Bars work themselves into the control arm sockets - this is to be expected. There is a fairly wide tolerance on the alignment specs.

 

Well I cranked mine 7 turns on each side for 1 1/2" of lift and my alignment was off extremely bad. Wore tires bad in 1 week. Safe bet to get it aligned after messing with the torsion bars.

 

cranked mine all the way up and I never needed an alignment, and I never had problems I hear tons of people needing alignments but I don't understand it? oh well maybe some things are better left not understood.

Nate

 

i turned mine on 3 trucks ive had all the way up while it was on our alignment machine, none of them went out of spec.

 

I have a 99f 150 4x4, and also do not like the nose dive effect. I haven't heard of cranking your torsion bars, until I saw this message. Can someone tell me what I am looking for, as far as what to turn, and what direction do I turn, and how many times do I turn it? any info is appreciated. thanks chris

 

underside of your truck there, bud. if you have ever crawled under your truck, then you've seen 'em. i saw your posts about the body lift so i would assume you've turned a bolt once or twice. anywho...the torsion bars run from the front suspension to about even w/ your mirrors or so underneath your truck where they attach to a crossmember. to adjust simply grab a socket and ratchet and there you go. righty tighty! how many turns u do is up to you. 5-7 should level it out. if you crank them all the way tight your front end will be slightly higher than the rear and look like ****.

 

thank you for your answers. I greatly appreciate it.chris

 

My alignment was off pretty bad. It's a fact that cranking the torsion bars changes toe. You cannot change geometry.

If you crank them "on the rack" then how do you get the suspension to settle? That scares me.

 

First off, it doesn't change toe, it changes camber which wears the inside or outside of your tires depending on whether is positive or negative.
Second, I made the mistake of backing my bars off after I had an alignment because my front was 1 inch higher than my back. Well it changed the camber and my tires wore on the inside. Sure enough another alignment revealed camber was out. Granted I do have a 4 inch suspension lift, but it call for factory alignment specs. It's always a good idea to check alignment anytime you change anything on the suspension. I know the tires these things take are not cheap. Hope this helps.

 

What I hate worse than a nose down truck is a rear end sagging truck. I have some bolt on springs added to my rear leafs. With 200 lbs (including fiberglass cap) in the back of my 4x4, the rear end is 3/4" higher (to the hub) than the front. I've never touched the torsion bars, but I would if I needed to. If I put 500lbs in the back, I don't want the rear sagging lower than the front. A rear sagging truck looks 10x worse, wimpy, than a nose down truck. JMHO

 

I just cranked up my torsion bars today. What a difference to have it leveled out. Now it looks like a 4x4 off road thanks for the info