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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 09:41 PM
  #16  
HighOn22's's Avatar
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From: Thibodaux, LA
If you want something with 12"+ of lift, I'd save up and buy an F-250, IMO. It'll avoid you having to do lot of things that will need to be done on an F-150.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 09:44 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by HighOn22's
If you want something with 12"+ of lift, I'd save up and buy an F-250, IMO. It'll avoid you having to do lot of things that will need to be done on an F-150.
take my truck for example!
 
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 10:48 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 4.2trimble
take my truck for example!
That's a perfect example, but if you want to be DIFFERENT then save up a little more and do as 4.2trimble did and you'll definatly be different.
And I don't believe I've seen anyone do SAS to an 04+ model YET..
 
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 12:06 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 4.2trimble
for 10k you can have a kickin SAS truck on 44's
My hats off to you for all the work you put in the truck is looking great!
 
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 12:07 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by IORf150
Oh so many options haha, I can think of one option fx4life, needs to drop his truck off at my house and I will leave the keys to mine in the ignition for him
Your truck is looking great with all the latest work you have done! You and Eff One Fifty have me thinking over and over about a BL now
 
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 12:19 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BLUEBEAST06FX4
I say go with the 6" and some 35's because it will feel like it is huge to you and everyone else. then in a couple years once you get used to it and you wanna go bigger you easily can with some kind of adustable shocks such as the bilstiens and even the rear out with an AAL or bigger blocks. So overall in the end go with a 6" and 35's and keep saving
I'm 21, in school full time and have busted my chops for everything so far working 1-3 jobs at a time! I leveled and within 5 months was getting ready to lift Anything is possible if your willing to work your *** off, Just make sure to keep the grades up or else the parentals will be all over you in the last year and a half I have fallen from reality dropping 28.5k into the truck, id also suggest a budget. My next truck will have a damn budget cause i'm starting to think this one has gotten out of hand!!!!

Originally Posted by shocker09
thanks to all of yall for the advice.I found a guy in tampa that had a 8 inch rize lift that came off of a wrecked truck and he wanted $1200 for it but some guy bought it the day I asked him.
I would have been real careful about that one, especially off a wrecked truck. Simply because you never know what could have been tweaked or what the accident was. Had you been able to see it before purchase and find out a bit about what happend and it checked out that was a heck of a deal!
 
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 01:37 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by HighOn22's
That's a perfect example, but if you want to be DIFFERENT then save up a little more and do as 4.2trimble did and you'll definatly be different.
And I don't believe I've seen anyone do SAS to an 04+ model YET..
I may sound like an idiot but what does SAS stand for?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 02:21 AM
  #23  
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From: California
SAS = straight axle swap.

In the long run if you go to 12 inches it will be cheaper and smarter to use a dana 60 off a dodge or a f250. Once you get an IFS that big the kits start to destroy the frame after a few years. It is a lot of twisting load placed on a section of the frame that was never meant for that kind of stress.

I can't remember the name of this guy one the boards but he has a white 05+? f150 with a SAS and 42's. The truck is a bad ****!

I personally would want a diesel if I ever get into 38s and bigger land. It is all preference in the end.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 09:02 AM
  #24  
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okay, so you havent answered yet, whats the budget? are you sticking with those 18's? if your going to be running anything like a 37 or bigger i say get new wheels and ditch that spacer.

i wish i would of went with a 12" kit but i guess its for another year. i say get a damn 12" kit right off the bat. If your not pulling in some mad money you arent gettign it this summer though bud.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 12:00 PM
  #25  
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From: Thibodaux, LA
The lift kit itself will probably be the cheapest. Once you add in rims, tires, shocks, and whatever other bells and whistles the cost will get up there. Also will you be doing everything yourself?
Just my setup cost me $5k with lift kit, rims and tires. Thats with me installing the lift myself. And notice I have the basic lift. If I could go back and do it all over I'd start off with a leveling kit then save up to put the 8" Rize, 37's and gears all at the same time.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 06:56 PM
  #26  
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I dont really have a budget, it is just what ever money I have at the time.Later on I plan to get new wheels but right now I have to have the spacer because the wheels are a different bolt pattern.I found my wheels and tires on ebay for $1300 so I bought them and made them work.I was thinking about a SAS before.You think I could use a dana 44 instead of a dana 60.I have read that a bunch of people dont want a BL because of the gap.I made my own gap guards out of 16ga alum and paint them with rustoleum matte black spray paint and you can not even notice.I plan on get some pics on here soon.If you would like for me to make some for your truck let me know.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 07:46 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by FX4life
Your truck is looking great with all the latest work you have done! You and Eff One Fifty have me thinking over and over about a BL now
Thanks man, I dont see why body lifts got such a bad reputation, if you get the gap gaurds and move your hitch up like effonefitty did, you really cant tell, and on our body styles, we both have the amp steps, you would be suprised how much the amp steps actually cover the side frame when there folded up.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 08:59 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by shocker09
I dont really have a budget, it is just what ever money I have at the time.Later on I plan to get new wheels but right now I have to have the spacer because the wheels are a different bolt pattern.I found my wheels and tires on ebay for $1300 so I bought them and made them work.I was thinking about a SAS before.You think I could use a dana 44 instead of a dana 60.I have read that a bunch of people dont want a BL because of the gap.I made my own gap guards out of 16ga alum and paint them with rustoleum matte black spray paint and you can not even notice.I plan on get some pics on here soon.If you would like for me to make some for your truck let me know.
yes you can use a HD D44 (heavy duty) but honestly its not really worth it unless you run 37" or smaller tires.

you could do a 9" front and rear and run a 38" tire that wouldnt be too bad.

But really you will want to run D60's FORD do not run Dodge they have unit bearings that suck, and are expinsive to replace since you have to replace the whole hub assembly. They axles are also made for coil springs thus not allowing for crossover if you do decide to run leaf springs, so you have to weld a piece to extend the steering piece on the hub.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 11:26 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by IORf150
Thanks man, I dont see why body lifts got such a bad reputation, if you get the gap gaurds and move your hitch up like effonefitty did, you really cant tell, and on our body styles, we both have the amp steps, you would be suprised how much the amp steps actually cover the side frame when there folded up.
For me its kinda to do with the engine bay after the bodylift, it seems just plain hard to do anything with after the BL. My personal opinion has just always been to steer clear of them, we will see though, maybe one day.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 06:20 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by FX4life
For me its kinda to do with the engine bay after the bodylift, it seems just plain hard to do anything with after the BL. My personal opinion has just always been to steer clear of them, we will see though, maybe one day.
i find it MUCH easier to do motor work after i got the BL. it frees up alot of space.

Plus i really need the body lift for the motor swap.
 
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