Ok, I know this is sort of beat to death. I know that 99.9% of people that want a lift also want larger tires. However, it's a huge expense to buy a 6 inch lift, new tires and new wheels. Some people may buy a lift and tires and then add new wheels a few months down the road. Also, some people may want to use their OEM wheels during winter months. Personally, I'd like to be able to install the oem wheels for alignment so the aftermarket wheels don't get scratched (I've had it happen before).

 

i saw a lifted f150 today with oem 20's, didnt see the guy to ask him if he had any issues. not sure what lift it was cause it had a spacer like the pro comp but not the cross member

 

I started this thread for that very reason of what was said befor I WANT TO RUN MY STOCK RIMS IN THE WINTER!!!!!!!!! and dilema 2 I currently have a 3in leveling kit sucks big time hate it...and to go with it i have 17in stock and custom rims with 33's the rims and tires are brand new on both stock and custom rims so i dont want to have to take a loss on them so this is my reasoning!

but thanks for the guys that kinda weighed in....but kinda lost! previouse remark said that i could do a 4" rancho with a spacer? spacer as in like a leveling kit in the front? or im just gona leave it open what the heck do you mean... I dont mean to sound retarted but ive worked on cars befor and all that jazz so dont type it out as if I ride the short bus with the flavored windows here i just need some insite on what to do with my truck and ive never delt with lift kits or any of that jazz and since you have delt and do know i want to know exactly what im doing befor i go and throw 2,000 plus into something that doesn't work.....

 

now every truck is different, but i got a little over 5 inches of lift from my rancho. i was 3/4" shorter than a pro comp 6 inch and i believe colonelblue got the same amount of lift as i did. yes the rancho lift with a 1 inch spacer, you will be right at 6" lift territory, you'll have good angles and can run both rims with no problems whatsoever.
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-04-08-Ford-F150-4WD-Daystar-Lift-Spacers_W0QQitemZ390026906963QQihZ026QQcategoryZ33 585QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
your angles will be fine with that spacer.

 

i agree, i pulled up to a rancho f150 and it was almost same height

 

I know this is an old and beat up subject, but my wondering ?? is... since the reason you can't run other typical lifts aside from the two listed due to BS issues, what if you have 1.5in adapters on the wheels. With a 17in wheel and 5.5 BS'ing you would be out to 4, eliminating that issue and able to run any lift right?? I haven't really seen adapters mentioned as a way to possibly run a lift and stock wheel set-up, might help when needing to switch to stocks.

I got to searching around in regards to this after seeing one lifted on stockers & 35's at the mall. Had I known it was so difficult to lift with stocks I would have checked what lift he was running.

Just a thought.

 

Wow this one is old... ive had my lift for a year now lol.... i went with the a bds 6 inch lift and i did run stockers last winter and plan to this year did have a problem last year but i just delt with it for the time being problem was that the stock tires did rub but only rubbed when I had the truck in a bind aka tight turns... i plan on fixing this problem by either getting a spacer plate (3/8 inch is what im going for because the amout of rub I have is only a 1/4 inch) or I plan to Tap my A frame and put a adjustable wheel stop so that when I run the custom tires in the summer months I can just pull the adjustable bump stop out and be back to stock positoning....im going to try the spacer plate first

 

lol I just called a local shop today to see what they had in, the guy mentioned he had a BDS 6in on hand installed for $2700, is that good. Also mentioned a 8 in rise installed for around $3800.

If I lift it or not I'm gonna do the 1.5 adapters get the 33's a better stance.

I don't think stockers with the adapters will be a issue by the math it meets the BS requirments, plus your info sorta confirms it can be done with little issues and no adapters. Just surprised no one ever mentioned adapters before.

 

2700 for the lift installed is good because I payed 2600 for mine and I installed and as for 33's and a 6 inch lift it doesnt look as good as 35's but when you get into 35's you have to start thinking about a regear especially if you pull anything( a way to help this is to get a bigger rim in a lighter substrate such as aluminum because obviously the rim with holes and such in it is going to be much lighter than the extra rubber) as for the 8inch lift you appsolutly cannot think about running 33's with it it will look appsolutly terrible even 35's dont look all that good... its because there is sooo much wheel well exposed

as for running a spacer with your 33's all the time I would suggest against it but let me go over something real quick to make it so you can understand... when you look at a tire size there is always 3 numbers 285/75/15 the first number is going to be the witdth of the tire in milimeters that sits on the roadway / then it is the hight or sidewall that is the percentage of the width of the tire like mine is 75% of the width/then the final number is the rim size that it needs to be mounted on....the term 33 comes the overall hight of the tire more or less it is slang..

you go with a tire like i put up above that is my tire size which is a 33 and sticks it sticks out about 1inch to 2 inches and i hafta say that I wouldnt go any farther out then that just for the simple fact that the more tire that is out past the wheel wel the more you can expect more rock chips and keeping it clean will be even harder

and back to the spacer discussion.... running a spacer is ok in moderation the problem with spacers is that it takes it farther away from the backing plate or hub or drum however you want to look at it... think of you lug nut stud as a big diving board the farther you go out on the board the more flex your going to have....so if you put a big tire out on the end of the stud or diving board eventually your going to have problems with studs breaking off because of the flex and stress and if not then just be uncomfortable about them at least I would....

might wana read that a few times lol alot of good info there

 

i thought it sounded like a good price, especially after I found some prices online.

yeah man, lol I'm not going to keep the 33's on with any lift.

I understand the spacer issue, but I am looking at adding an adapter, which pretty much stress wise on hubs and so on is the same as a wheel with more backspaceing. I'd imagine a 1.5in spacer would use up most of anyones threads.

 

I am looking at the 6” BDS for my 16 F150 Lariot with the 6.5 bed. I’m having the same issue with figuring out the stock wheel issue. It seems to me the you can run the stock wheel as long as you can get the backspacing under the max BS requirement listed by the lift manufacturer. BDS saids their max BS is 5” so, in theory, if you add a 3/4 - 1” wheel spacer to the stock 18” wheel that has a BS of 5.5” then you would bring the BS down below the max making it useable on a 6” BDS lift. I have not done this however that seems to be the best answer I’ve been able to find for the problem of stock wheels on lifts.

 

You understand that wheel spacers are not ideal, right?

 

Yes! I have a 2017 platinum with a superlift 6” lift with the OEM (stock) wheels. Because it’s a platinum I have the 20” wheels however the super lift brand does say 17”+ OEM wheels will work.

I put on 35x12.50 on the OEM wheels. I did also put on a 2” hub centric coyote spacer front and rear but I think 1” would have worked just fine. I only needed the spacer due to the wider tire.

Recap:
2017 Platinum 3.5L Ecoboost
OEM wheels
2” spacer
6” Superlift
35x12.50 fuel grabber tires

and I LOVE the look.

 

Looks good man!