I got my new up control arms complete with bushing and ball joints. inner and outer tie rods , lower ball joints.

My question is NAPA gave me two different lower ball joints.
PART NUMBERS:
104222
260-1460

they look to be different sizes. and are definitely different materials, one is gold one is black.

the boxes are different too one is Precision Engineered the other is Master Ride.

Out of everything theres only 1 Precision Engineered box, everything else is Master Ride.

Any clue what went wrong here?

 

ok guys i found out what hapened. They sent me one greaseable lower ball joint and one OEM lower ball joint.

I didnt care for the greaseable but hey whatever. Now my question is do these need to match or can i just use them one non greaseable one greaseable?

They are both for my truck.

 

I would get them to match. Sealed=factory=better IMO.

 

i think id rather have sealed too. im going to napa tomorrow to get the ball joints and tie rod ends too. ill make sure i get matching and sealed ball joints.

 

using one greasable and one non greasable is like buying one clear headlamp, and one frosted headlamp..... sure, they both work, but why bother?
you can run either one, but i wouldnt run one of each..... your likely to not grease just one balljoint.......
just get the sealed and be happy with them.

 

Yeah i definitely wanted sealed, i didnt want the greasable one.

Thats probably what im going to do, i dont want to have to go get another one, due to the fact that i was gonna work on this after work tomorrow but its no biggie.

I know what your saying i just didnt want to have to make a trip to napa.

But that grease pin is just one more place for mud to get in and screw crap up.

Thanks alot guys

 

Interesting, on the ranger forums it was a big deal to replace the crappy ford BJs with MOOG greaseable ones that last longer. I would have assumed one person would say get the greasable ones.

 

id forget to make sure they are properly greased. i dont plan on keeping my truck long enough in order for the new ones to wear out either

 

Yeah i never cared about the greaseable factor.

I wont have the IFS for much longer so theres no reason puttin loads of money behind it.

 

couldnt you just put a cap over the grease fitting like the brake calipers have over the bleed screws?

 

why would you not want a greasable ball joint. that is the reason ball joints fail, especially under severe use such as heavy off roading and larger tires. the same goes for universle joints. back in the day all ball joints and tie rod ends were serviceable, and ussually did not need replaceing for many many miles or years.

 

which one is the greasable one, i couldn't find any, these sealed ones suck, and they are expensive to replace on a regular basis, the ones on my old truck lasted over 200 000km

 

Yeah and i have to replace those caps in the calipers once a week after i go out they always just come off.

The greasable one is 260-1460

My problem is that they are OPEN, After i hit the mud i have to drive an hour home, once mud gets in there and warms up that hour back home can really cause some damage. Id rather have a sealed ball joint. Thats just me. But if you dont understand what i put my truck though once or twice a week you really wouldnt understand. Especially saying we are talkin about lower ball joints i drag these though mud all the time. The uppers just get splatter with mud.

 

And I would be willing to bet that the stock sealed joint will last 100K plus. How much more do you want?

4.2, are the parts on your truck still Spicer like the pre-97s? If so, get Spicer nongreasables. On most service parts, OEM will almost always be better than aftermarket.

 

they shouldnt be, but not sure how to tell if they are??? My truck is a 99.

Whats something to look for?