I have done some searching on here and cant seem to find a write up on doing a body lift or even a thread with helpful tips. So here goes...I am actually planning on putting a body lift on my 97 f150. Does anyone have any tips or helpful hints when installing this lift? for example: something that doesnt have to be done or can be done differently to make it easier?

I read somewhere that the radiator doesnt have to be removed...the only reason it is removed so can take the shroud out to remove tabs...so the soloution is leaving the radiator in and cutting the tabs off while its all in the truck...sorry i dont remember who posted this and please correct me if i quoted this wrong. just trying to get it going on here

I have read on a couple threads a couple hints about body lifts but they are at times un clear and definetly not all in one spot. I am also not limiting this to the 97-03 models...if you have helpful hints or tips about any year, please post it so we can help everyone.

 

You are right about the radiator. Also, first of all, wash the underside of your truck to remove all the mud and dirt. Then start spraying all of the body mounting bolts with penetrating oil. You will need to use a large pair of channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench to hold the round body bushings/nuts so you can remove the cab bolts. Also, because of the shape of the bed where it wraps around the cab, the bed and cab have to be lifted together so they don't hit.

 

I would say the few most helpful hints are washing the underside very well, spraying all of the bolts with penetrating oil a few times, have big channel locks, a TORCH, and a big breaker bar with a pipe.

With a 97, some of those bolts are going to be tough. I don't know how much rust you have down there, but the torch will help get those stubborn bolts out significantly. Also, when I did my Sport Trac body lift, some of the body bolts needed a long extension and a swivel to get to them, so be prepared for that kind of thing.

Performance Accessories does a pretty good job with their directions and a list of tools required. Just follow each step in there and you'll be okay. Give yourself a couple days with a buddy to work on it in case you run into any snags.

Don't forget to buy gap guards to hide the space between the frame and body/bed.

 

just have lots of patience. That's probably the most important thing. I only had two bolts give me extreme trouble: the very front core driver side mount and one of the bed bolts on the same side. Like you said, you don't need to remove the radiator.

Oh yeah, and remember to slide the bed back some when lifting. If you try and lift the bed it'll nick the cab. I found this out the hard way, but luckily you can't notice it unless you really go looking for it.

 

x2
Patience on a body lift is important, just take your time and try not to get frustrated. Its one of those things that really isn't that difficult, its just very time consuming. Other than that, i'd say all the most useful and helpful tips have been covered; the directions provided from PA are pretty thorough, just read through them before the install, and read them carefully during the install to make sure you don't miss anything. Oh and when you spray all the bolts with penetrating oil, make sure you do that for about atleast a week prior to the install. Good luck

 

Great! thanks guys for the helpful hints. Keep them coming

but now i have a question for my self...i am now debating if i actually want a BL or not...i want to get more clearance for the tires but i just dont know if the BL is worth it...because i still have 38" tires so if i were to have to flex it much, it would still cram into my fenders. I dont know if it will do it on the front because of the bump stops but I am worried about the back...i already can see some stress spots where the fender and bed is warping from getting hit. So do i have any other options...cutting fenders? I dont want to cut it much because I have seen some trucks that look stupid with HUGE wheel wells and i dont like it. what is yalls guys opinons...obviously all yall are running body lifts so did the body lift solve this problem?
Cashel i see you are running pretty much what I want to run with the 6" and 3" with 38s. but i also have the torsions cranked a little. did the body lift create all the room you needed? did you ever have the lift with out the BL? with 38s? what is your opinion on the changes? worth it? and how about the height? does it make difference when driving around? I guess i have sort of "cold feet" about this body lift. I know its not all that expensive just seems like ALOT of work. Thanks for yalls helpful hints and tips...and thanks for the opinions

 

one more request

does any one have pictures of their engine after the body lift? does it make it look awkward after everything is 3" higher except for the motor? haha thanks for the help guys.

 

The bottom line is the line that runs from the transmission cooler to the radiator. The top is the old hard line. I could not get the hard line back into place on the radiator. (I am sure that it can be done.) However, it was much easier to buy a piece of high pressure flexible line an two hose claps. I saved the original fittings and clamped it all together, re-connected the fittings and saved myself a huge headache and a lot of time.
Maybe that will help you, if you get into the same type of pinch. I also had trouble getting the front drivers side body bolt out as well. It was tough the entire time.

 

Here it is in place.

 

No, it doesn't look awkward at all. It will give you a little more room to work on things.

 

The 6 + 3 combo I'm running now suits me fine. I've gone offroading a few times and I seem to be able to stuff the tires quite well. I haven't broken anything and I like to throw my truck around. I'd definitely say it's worth it to go ahead and throw the body lift and 38's on there. If anything though, you can always add flared out fenders and that would definitely give you some more room. The height is awesome, I can see over everybody when driving . Although I don't have step bars on the side, so everytime somebody gets in, I hear bitching (I'm 6'2", so I can get in/out of my truck w/o steps quite easily). It is a fair amount of work, but nothing you, a buddy, and some beer can't take on over a weekend. I say you jump in and do it man.

edit: and your engine will be sunk down 3" compared to the body. I like it because like Wandell said, it gives me more room to work with.

 

You want a tip for doing a body lift? Don't do it. Best tip out there on the subject.

 

GTRider245...could you explain why?

 

Thanks for the responses guys...I already have the 38s and a 6" fabtech with the Torsion bars cranked so im right at around 8" of lift. So with the BL i will be at 11" of lift. cashel, do you have the torsion bars cranked or just the 6+3? If you just have the 6+3, you are just at 9" of lift right? which would be only about an inch higher than mine, do you have any rubbing problems at all? I have rubbing problems when turning and hitting a bump (like going up the driveway, i have to do some major swing out so i can get the tires straight by time i hit the driveway. and my driveway is only like 3" of a bump...so thats why im worried about off roading.) But im thinking with 11" of lift on there, i would be able to turn with out problems...right? thanks guys for all the help.

and thanks pdabbs911 for the tip...

 

1. YOU ARE LIFTING THE BODY OFF THE FRAME. The concept itself is a sketchy thought.

2. You will always have to recheck and retorque the body bolts.

3. There is now a 3" gap in between the body and frame for God knows what to get stuck in.

4. If you relocate bumpers, you lose ALL factory integrity for impact.

5. They look cheap, becuase they are cheap.

That's all I can think of at the moment. I am sure I can some up with some more if I try hard enough.