vibration since lift
#2
that sucks. I would get it fixed.
Look into balancing tires. Look to make sure everything is tight and secure. Make sure the shackles are tight, make sure the new ubolts are snug. Re-torque everything. New tires ? Make sure they are in balance, make sure they are truly round (not out of round). Check driveshaft. make sure everything back there is in good working order. Check for play or slop in the u-joints. Check leaf springs. Check the condition of them. Still got that spare tire back there ? Take it out, no need for it, if your running 35" + tires.
Will it vibrate from 60-65 ? Or starts at 60mph, and continues the faster you go ? Gets worse the faster you go ? Can you feel it in the steering ? Or simply behind you ? Your sure its the rear ?
Look into balancing tires. Look to make sure everything is tight and secure. Make sure the shackles are tight, make sure the new ubolts are snug. Re-torque everything. New tires ? Make sure they are in balance, make sure they are truly round (not out of round). Check driveshaft. make sure everything back there is in good working order. Check for play or slop in the u-joints. Check leaf springs. Check the condition of them. Still got that spare tire back there ? Take it out, no need for it, if your running 35" + tires.
Will it vibrate from 60-65 ? Or starts at 60mph, and continues the faster you go ? Gets worse the faster you go ? Can you feel it in the steering ? Or simply behind you ? Your sure its the rear ?
#3
#7
i hope to have it by friday i am ordering it first thing monday morning! it should fix the problem, reason i think so is because on a full tank of gas it doesnt viberate as bad as say an 1/8 of a tank, because the more weight in the bed area is causeing less of a driveline angle i think, as silly as that sounds the slight difference in weight makes a difference in pinion angle, i drove from NY to Maine this past weekend and back and it deff played a role in viberation...and btw the truck rocked in the snow
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#8
just to update
i am currently having a custom built drive shaft done, yoke shaft and 4 bolt flange that bolts to the rear,
i went with a fully polished aluminum setup, it should be here on friday so i will slap that bad boy on take it for a ride and let you know how it goes, i will snap some pics..
hopefully this fixes the problem
i am currently having a custom built drive shaft done, yoke shaft and 4 bolt flange that bolts to the rear,
i went with a fully polished aluminum setup, it should be here on friday so i will slap that bad boy on take it for a ride and let you know how it goes, i will snap some pics..
hopefully this fixes the problem
#10
Same problem here. Just ordered a 1" spacer from Fabteck. It goes at the back of the driver shaft. $140 canadian. Part is FT 30072
email response from fabteck
Contact any offroad retailer and order fts92003,this would come with the bolts.
Thanks
Armen Mosikian
Tech Manager
Fabtech Motorsports
4331 Eucalyptus Ave
Chino, Ca. 91710
Ph. 909-597-7800
Ext. 2236
877-432-2832
Fax. 909-597-7185
amosikian@fabtechmotorsports.com
http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/
email response from fabteck
Contact any offroad retailer and order fts92003,this would come with the bolts.
Thanks
Armen Mosikian
Tech Manager
Fabtech Motorsports
4331 Eucalyptus Ave
Chino, Ca. 91710
Ph. 909-597-7800
Ext. 2236
877-432-2832
Fax. 909-597-7185
amosikian@fabtechmotorsports.com
http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/
#11
i personally wouldnt use a spacer it might not be perfectly balanced, and it puts more stress on the u joint because the axle isnt longer your just putting a gap between the rear and the coupler, but do let us know how it works out because for the 6" guys this is a cheap alternative, about 90$ or so
#12
I run a fabtech system (for many reasons such as these, no offense) and they use a standard spacer in all their lift kits. No issues on mine, or the two other Fabtech lifts I have installed.
Spacer not balanced ? Doesn't matter, promise. It is round, and acts as a mounting surface for the flange on the driveshaft. Its not in the middle of the shaft !
Axle not long enough : Have no idea whatcha mean here. Spacer goes in between where the driveshaft mounts to the rear-end flange. Axles have nothing to do with it, nor do they need "to be longer".
No, stress isn't an issue. In hardcore rockcrawlers, they use spacers on flange type driveshaft connections. I have seen them beat the **** outta their rigs, with no issues. Thats abuse like we will NEVER put on our trucks.
Just some info to help clear the air.
Spacer not balanced ? Doesn't matter, promise. It is round, and acts as a mounting surface for the flange on the driveshaft. Its not in the middle of the shaft !
Axle not long enough : Have no idea whatcha mean here. Spacer goes in between where the driveshaft mounts to the rear-end flange. Axles have nothing to do with it, nor do they need "to be longer".
No, stress isn't an issue. In hardcore rockcrawlers, they use spacers on flange type driveshaft connections. I have seen them beat the **** outta their rigs, with no issues. Thats abuse like we will NEVER put on our trucks.
Just some info to help clear the air.
#13
i personally wouldnt use a spacer it might not be perfectly balanced, and it puts more stress on the u joint because the axle isnt longer your just putting a gap between the rear and the coupler, but do let us know how it works out because for the 6" guys this is a cheap alternative, about 90$ or so
Forgot to mention, shim your rear end as well ( did that when I arched the springs - I only run a 2" block in the rear). This reduces the stress on the U-joint. I already shimmed mine, my yolk was like the picture above, now its, about half the distance out. I should have the spacer here in a week, so I'll post some pics and give an update.