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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 08:10 PM
  #1  
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Torsion bar removal

I tried the search and none of the threads were resolved, and the topics so old that the old threads are now removed.

I bought a large claw puller and can't get the center bolt to reach the key pilot hole. I need another 3" to reach. It looks like a c-clamp would work if the bolt end fit in the pilot hole.

What am I missing here? Kind of running out of time.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 10:34 PM
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this would work but I can't find one.

 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 12:56 AM
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a c clamp would work, however, before spending $ on tools, see if you can back the bolt out with just a wrench. i too bought a two claw puller, and turned out not needing it. after removing the adjuster bolts/nuts, unbolt all the hardware holding the torsion bar crossmember onto the frame. then, take an iron stake, hold it on the front of the bars (there is an access "hole" in the front of the lower control arm) and pound the stake with a sledge. this will make short work of the seemingly impossible task of getting the bars out. (yes, my bars were rusted in there pretty good too.)

-Jon
 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by minimonster17
a c clamp would work, however, before spending $ on tools, see if you can back the bolt out with just a wrench. i too bought a two claw puller, and turned out not needing it. after removing the adjuster bolts/nuts, unbolt all the hardware holding the torsion bar crossmember onto the frame. then, take an iron stake, hold it on the front of the bars (there is an access "hole" in the front of the lower control arm) and pound the stake with a sledge. this will make short work of the seemingly impossible task of getting the bars out. (yes, my bars were rusted in there pretty good too.)

-Jon
jon check your PM's dang it!
 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 01:00 AM
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you were just replied.

to the OP, i forgot to mention, DO NOT USE HEAT to remove the bars. Heating the bars will destroy them.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 09:40 AM
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I use the gm torsion bar unloading tool to do the chevy, ford and dodges. Here's a link to one http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/...ng_tool-d.html Most of the local 4x4 shops will have them and rent them out. I rent them out for $20 with a $120 deposit just in case it doesn't come back.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 10:48 AM
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Take the anvil off of a C clamp and use the ball end to fit in the key.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by minimonster17
a c clamp would work, however, before spending $ on tools, see if you can back the bolt out with just a wrench. i too bought a two claw puller, and turned out not needing it. after removing the adjuster bolts/nuts, unbolt all the hardware holding the torsion bar crossmember onto the frame. then, take an iron stake, hold it on the front of the bars (there is an access "hole" in the front of the lower control arm) and pound the stake with a sledge. this will make short work of the seemingly impossible task of getting the bars out. (yes, my bars were rusted in there pretty good too.)

-Jon
Thanks. I'll give that a shot today.
wonder how difficult installation will be.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JMC
Take the anvil off of a C clamp and use the ball end to fit in the key.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
cool, was also thinking of doing that.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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well it worked! sort of. I used the clamp to defuse some of the tension and removed the nut so the lever can drop. had a hell of a time wackin the levers off. I ended up just keep the bars attached to the lower arm since I'm just pulling my tranny. Might need a proper clamp for assembly.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 07:29 PM
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c-clamp kept shifting around under pressure since the top of the crossmember is round and the hole in the key is at an angle.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 10:46 PM
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I bought a 4inch 2 claw gear puller and it worked perfectly on the torsion bar key. I still can't the bar out though. I'm gonna try releasing the crossmember and driving it out of the lower control arm so I can change the ball joints.
 
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