Yea, you are lucky.

 

BDS stands for Big **** Suspension. They use to have t-shirts that said "If you want to go deep into the bush, you'll need a Big **** Suspension."

That's enough reason for me to buy their stuff!

No seriously though. BDS does make great products, but I wouldn't use that kit on a F-150 w/o upgrading the spacers to coilovers or the 4/6" Bilsteins. I'm just not a fan of the 6" coil spacers even for pavement pounders; the stock shocks just aren't designed to handle the larger much heavier tires and wheels you're going to install after you get the truck lifted.

I'm surprised that the BDS kit is cheaper than the stage 1 Fabtech kit though. Maybe you should shop around a little because to me it sounds like your shop has some hidden agenda and really wants to sell you BDS.

Some nice features about the BDS kit is that it comes with 5" blocks and a 1.5" AAL for a total of 4.5" of rear lift (you remove the factory 2" block). Also, it comes with stainless braided brake lines for the front instead of some cheezy extension brackets. I paid $117 for Rize braided lines to use on my 6" lift because I didn't want to bend my factory steel lines. Those two items alone are about a $200 value that don't come w/ the Fabtech kit.

 

awesome replies guys! thanks for all the info...

i am in the process of getting some cash together then its just a matter of clearing two days in my schedule and setting up an appointment...its going to be tough to be without my truck for 2 days...BDS lift it is! i'll post pics when she's done!

Carl

 

I have BDS and love it....looks good...and...all the Steel is from North America....not half NA and Half overseas....fits great, looks great....My question is....i want to bring the height of the front end up to match the height of the back end....some say i can't, others say i can....sooo...If i go with a coil over shock and get rid of the stock and strut spacer....what do i need to add in there to level the truck?...do you have to replace the brake and other lines with the raise or what....WHAT do i have to do to level my truck....thanks....

 

Dude....I have a BDS on my 06 fx4....and it is great....i called BDS directly in michigan...they work with the ford plant down the road so their developement is up with the truck....they use ALL north american steel....where i learned that other companies either use Both NA and Overseas steel or they just don't know....the only thing i found is that using the stock struck makes the truck a bit soft when turning so it just barely rubs my bushwacker flares....I am going to have a shop install a taller coilover (Donahoe Coilovers are the one)....they have an adjustment from 0 to 3" for lift....but make sure that you ask about possibly having to lengthen any lines (brake, etc.)....I do take it off road and beat on it...it works and has a lifetime warranty....oh, remember that every truck is different...also make sure that you look at the rear drive shaft....any lift will bring the front yoke out up to 2 "....i had a new one made....added yukon gears (4.56) and an edge controller.....Ford said they can only alter the main computer to a certain point....not good enough for 13x35's (speedo was out about 10-15Kms and ABS needed a tweek).....now everything works Perfect....Lots, and Lots of looks and compliments....message me if you need more help...here is a link to my pics: https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=9456

 

Dude....I have a BDS on my 06 fx4....and it is great....i called BDS directly in michigan...they work with the ford plant down the road so their developement is up with the truck....they use ALL north american steel....where i learned that other companies either use Both NA and Overseas steel or they just don't know....the only thing i found is that using the stock struck makes the truck a bit soft when turning so it just barely rubs my bushwacker flares....I am going to have a shop install a taller coilover (Donahoe Coilovers are the one)....they have an adjustment from 0 to 3" for lift....but make sure that you ask about possibly having to lengthen any lines (brake, etc.)....I do take it off road and beat on it...it works and has a lifetime warranty....oh, remember that every truck is different...also make sure that you look at the rear drive shaft....any lift will bring the front yoke out up to 2 "....i had a new one made....added yukon gears (4.56) and an edge controller.....Ford said they can only alter the main computer to a certain point....not good enough for 13x35's (speedo was out about 10-15Kms and ABS needed a tweek).....now everything works Perfect....Lots, and Lots of looks and compliments....message me if you need more help...here is a link to my pics: https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=9456

 

so whats the deal with "bringing the front yoke out up to 2?"

i've never heard of this...is this something i need to look into before getting the lift installed?

 

will i have to have a new driveshaft made before i add a 6" lift?

 

You will not need a new driveshaft with only 6" of lift. I'm pretty sure you can have an 8" lift or more and not need a new driveshat.

 

so with a 6" lift...how much of the yoke is left in the/on the shaft in the transmission? from what i have found extending the yoke seems like a good cheap easy way to prevent some major damage down the road...

has anyone else extended their driveshafts after a lift?




http://www.iedls.com/impala.html

"...As you move the axle aft you are pulling the transmission yoke out of the transmission by an equal distance. When the project is finished and you drive your car there will be no indication of any problem…for a while. Eventually the transmission tail shaft bushing will wear and become the cause of a transmission overhaul. Here is how this will creep up on you.

Pulling the yoke out of the transmission moves the front u-joint aft. This gives the force created by the joint angle a longer lever to use in applying itself to the tail shaft bushing. The now greater force wears the bushing faster opening up space between the yoke sleeve and the bushing. Space between these parts allows the whole front of the drive shaft and rear of the transmission output shaft to orbit. Orbiting instead of rotating increases the wear rate even more. By the time you feel a vibration the bushing is history. As time and miles go by the orbiting drive shaft and transmission tail shaft stress the rear transmission bushing, which then wears. Wear in this bushing allows the centerline of the transmission's internal parts to bow slightly causing everything to wear. Eventually when the clutch packs fail they can take their mating parts with them. You will learn about these internal damages during the transmission rebuild and resulting bill. This whole sequence of events is the completely unexpected result of an innocent, unrelated, parts change..."