I've got suspension squeaks all over the place on a 1997 5.4L 4x4 I had it checked out because I don't know a whole lot about suspension, and it came up with the following:

my Idle Bar was "played"
My back shocks were shot
I needed a new ball joint on the right

My back shocks are fine, they don't squeak at all. So with that eliminated, I'm coming up with the ball joints and idle bar. Would an idle bar really cause a squeak? Also, I was told the right ball joint was worn really badly, which showed because part of it was sticking up from the center of the grease.

I was wondering if it'd be hard to do this myself, and save the $600, or if I should let it be handled professionally.

 

Regardless of the other stuff, if you have original shocks more than 3 years old then you need new shocks.

Ball joints are rather involved, although a person with little experience but good mechanical ability and tools can handle it with some patience and a Hayne's manual. Years ago I replaced the kingpins on an old F250 and got it done in a day. These days I'd be more likely to let a shop handle heavy stuff like that and I'll stick to easy stuff like brakes or starters.

I do not know what you mean by 'idle bar'.

 

I think he meant either the center link, or the idler arm.

Defn: Center link- the bar that is supported by the idler arm and pitman arm and moves the inner tie rods.
Idler arm- a support angle that holds the center link parallel while turning to the pitman arm.

Hope this helps tatersalad....

 

I don't know if you have the same squeek I had, but every time I would
turn the steering wheel I had a terrible squeek, it was my pitman arm, there
is no grease fitting there on my truck so after reading how several others used the needle grease fitting I went ahead and used it in the rubber boot and sealed the hole with permatex, the squeek was gone instantly.

 

I had the same problem with my 97 SCAB. you'll find that when you attempt to replace the ball joints, you'll have to replace the upper control arm (for the upper ball joints), and the lower control arm (for the lower ball joints). You won't be able to get the ball joints out. I also had to replace my Idler arm. The ones that were making all the noise were on the left hand side but with 70,000 miles I figured I had better replace both sides. I've been quiet for the last month. Now I can hear a slight whistling sound as I drive...(Bearings maybe????? ) $500.00 is what my dealer charged me.

 

Those ball joints are replaceable. Just use an air-hammer with a chissel bit and take the top of the rivits off. Then use a punch and drive out the rest of the old rivit. The new ball joints come with the bolts to install it.

**Be forwarned** Not for the faint of heart.
The first time I did this it took about 4 hours per side. I can remove all 4 in about 25 minuted now.

 

They were driving me nuts! Along with the shuddering on braking. First I replaced the Idler. Took care of some of the squeaks. Then I did the Pitman. Again, better, but not gone. Decided to turn the rotors, thinking this is what was causing the shuddering on braking. Looked at the ball joints. Left lower had a dimple on the top of it. Hhmmm......Looked at the other side, and it did too, only bigger! HHHHmmmmm.

Rented, for free, the ball joint tool from my local NAPA, and got the premium Ball Joints, upper control arms, and new Monroe Sensi-Trac Shocks. Took about three hours to do the ball joints and control arms. The tool worked great. I put the ball Joints in the freezer as soon as I got home. and install was easy.

Squeak free for the first time in years! I now feel the shuddering was a result of the ball joints being bad. I think if I had ignored for much longer, I would have broken down on the road, and sooner, not later! There was at least 1/2" play on the lower right, and 3/8" on the lower left. The uppers were still good, but since I had it all apart anyway....what's another $130!

No problems with the R&R. New tires today, and the ride is like brandy new!