Clunking over bumps
I have a 2002 Scab 4X4 ORP with a 3.55 LS and in very slow speed turns over uneven ground I also have a clunking sound coming from the rear. It seems to happen more in the cold weather, and I have checked everything I could think of in the rear except the differential. I hope that isn't the cause. It amost sounds like a bad shock or broken spring, but it isn't. I'd like to know more if anyone finds a cause.
Its getting warmer out now, maybe this weekend I will take a look at my rear end suspension. I added a leaf and new shocks all around at the end of last summer, but the problem still exists...I bet it could be something where the leaf springs connect to the shackles...remember just becuase you can move it with your hand doesnt mean that your 2.5 ton truck cant...
I will post any findings...
I will post any findings...
My 1999 F150 4x4 has the same symptoms. It's been doing it for a long time and I try to ignore it. I mainly notice it when turning over uneven surfaces (like turning into a driveway with a slightly raised curb, etc). Sometimes it sounds like it comes from the front, sometimes it sounds like it comes from the rear, or middle. I tightened the sway bar links after reading some stuff here about it, and that seemed to improve the problem, but I still notice it occasionally.
My rattle wasn't suspension
2000 F-150 Ext Cab SB 4x4 Off Road Package
I had clunk/rattle noise coming from the front but after I found the cause I could see where this could be from the rear as well.
Mine was due to a loose brake caliper. The bolts needed just a bit more of a turn and all was fine.
Here's an easy test to see if this might be the problem:
Find a route that really makes the noise obvious at relatively slow speeds. For me, it was a grass lane between two fields. While driving and hearing the clunk or rattle press the break a little with the left foot while maintaining speed. Does the noise go away? If so, one or more calipers may be loose as mine was.
Simply remove the wheel(s) and tighten the two bolts, top and bottom, on the caliper. An 18mm 6-point socket is what I needed. (I was able to physically move the caliper by grabbing with both hands and pulling up and down.) If you have disc brakes on the rear I suppose the same problem could occur there as well.
Hope this will help.
Roger
I had clunk/rattle noise coming from the front but after I found the cause I could see where this could be from the rear as well.
Mine was due to a loose brake caliper. The bolts needed just a bit more of a turn and all was fine.
Here's an easy test to see if this might be the problem:
Find a route that really makes the noise obvious at relatively slow speeds. For me, it was a grass lane between two fields. While driving and hearing the clunk or rattle press the break a little with the left foot while maintaining speed. Does the noise go away? If so, one or more calipers may be loose as mine was.
Simply remove the wheel(s) and tighten the two bolts, top and bottom, on the caliper. An 18mm 6-point socket is what I needed. (I was able to physically move the caliper by grabbing with both hands and pulling up and down.) If you have disc brakes on the rear I suppose the same problem could occur there as well.
Hope this will help.
Roger
my 2002 f-150 sc 4x4 had the same issue. my niose was drivers side front. Ford dealer replaced the following...Front pair of shocks...niose continued....Sway bar link and bushing's......niose comtinued.....upper and lower ball jiont's booth side's....niose continued...idler arm...niose continued...after the tie rods were replaced the clunking niose went a way. Some f-150 in the 97-03 years had bad front suspensions, I hope you or a good mecanic can resolve your f-150 problem's.
Was reading over at the explorer forum and the same noise was described due to a torison (sp) bar dampner. You couldn't see it was worm away until you disassembled the housing that holds it in place. I think the web site is serious explorations, or do a search for explorer forums and you'll find it.
Good luck.
Good luck.
The Front end knocking I could feel and hear for the past year turned out to be the Sway Bar Bushings. Cheap and easy to changed. Wish I would have changed them last year.
Changed:
Idler Arm (Better stearing but no change in knocking)
Sway bar links (No change whatsoever)
When I was changing the Links I noticed I could see light through the Bushings and thought to myself "Humm, I don't think that should be like that"
dpostman
Changed:
Idler Arm (Better stearing but no change in knocking)
Sway bar links (No change whatsoever)
When I was changing the Links I noticed I could see light through the Bushings and thought to myself "Humm, I don't think that should be like that"
dpostman
Last edited by dpostman; Jun 24, 2005 at 08:17 AM.
I too have a 98 4x4 (XLT, Triton 4.6L). I have had a "clunk" since I bought it a couple months ago. Initally though it was universals. Not so. Everthing in that regard is tight. This weekend we had a freezer in the back and other assorted items. I stopped the truck after a couple blocks and pulled over and said to my wife "do you feel that?"...she said "no"...I said..."Exactly". With the load on, it would appear my clunk, which is quite noticeable to everyone who rides in it...has gone. Once the freezer and other goodies were removed the "clunk" reappeared. I think it's driveline or suspension...more toward the rear, as if the rear end is torquing and changing geometry, but I've heard everything from slip yolk to rear end gear mesh...and I'm not a mechanic so I don't have a clue.
Does the fact it disappears under load help to narrow it down?
Steve
Does the fact it disappears under load help to narrow it down?
Steve
Radius arms etc
Not being mechanically inclined, I had to look up what a radius arm was, but I figured it's on the front end of the truck. Unlike the original post, this doesn't happend when I'm turning specifically, although I'm sure it would. It always happens when I'm taking off. The way in which the clunk jlots through the cab you feel the rear of the truck drop - as when you apply power through the powertrain. I'm not sure why the front end would be suspect, but I'll look there.
I had the same prob, luckily mine was a quick fix, when I had my 40 series flowmaster installed the **** head didnt proparly mount the old bracket to hold up the end of the new exhaust tip, so every time i hit a bump the bracket did nothing and then tip moved up and down..... i had to heat it up and bend it over more...prob solved...


