Problems with install of front springs...please H*LP
#1
09-01-2000, 11:42 PM
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Problems with install of front springs...please H*LP
Hey guys,
I'm having a heckuva time getting the front springs out. I've done this many times on late model Mustangs, but they have no upper A-arms, so everything comes apart easier.
Got the shock out, sway bar link off, but cannot get either the upper or lower A-arm to come loose from the steering knuckle where the castle nuts are. I loosened each castle nut and tried a big hammer, then tried a puller on the lower A-arm one...no dice.
Can I just remove the upper A-arm bolts that hold it to the frame? There are two up there. Maybe it will swing out enough to get the spring out?
I thought the rear would be the most difficult since I replaced the front hangers and had to go through those forged rivets! Indeed it was a PITA, but at least I got it done.
This silly front end has me stumped right now.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
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Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.63 @ 114.5)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.3)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html
I'm having a heckuva time getting the front springs out. I've done this many times on late model Mustangs, but they have no upper A-arms, so everything comes apart easier.
Got the shock out, sway bar link off, but cannot get either the upper or lower A-arm to come loose from the steering knuckle where the castle nuts are. I loosened each castle nut and tried a big hammer, then tried a puller on the lower A-arm one...no dice.
Can I just remove the upper A-arm bolts that hold it to the frame? There are two up there. Maybe it will swing out enough to get the spring out?
I thought the rear would be the most difficult since I replaced the front hangers and had to go through those forged rivets! Indeed it was a PITA, but at least I got it done.
This silly front end has me stumped right now.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
------------------
Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.63 @ 114.5)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.3)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html
#2
09-02-2000, 01:47 AM
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Sounds dangerous! Be Careful, Are you talking about the castle nut that secures the balljoint to the spindle, if so remove the nut, and drench the threads real good with some penetrating oil ( you may have to let it soak overnight ) or equivalent. Make sure the frame is supported with jack stands and all the weight is off of the front suspension. You may even try a torch, to heat the metal and the hammer again.
Wait for some more opinions, I'm no expert.
I wouldn't remove the a-arms from the frame, I know your going to have to have it aligned again anyways, but I would want to keep it as close as I could.
[This message has been edited by Nitrox (edited 09-02-2000).]
Wait for some more opinions, I'm no expert.
I wouldn't remove the a-arms from the frame, I know your going to have to have it aligned again anyways, but I would want to keep it as close as I could.
[This message has been edited by Nitrox (edited 09-02-2000).]
#3
09-02-2000, 11:08 AM
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WA 2 FST,
I DID MINE 2 WEEKS AGO AND IT ONLY TOOK ME 2 1/2 HOURS FOR BOTH SIDES.sorry about upper case,now, make sure you have the frame supported with stands. Next, place a jack under the a-arm so you take some tension off the ball joint and spindle connection. Once the nut is loose go ahead and use the puller or just tap on the steering rod. if not then use the hammer to get it loose. i am thinking that you might have too much tension on the ball joint/spindle connection, that is why i recommend using the jack under the a-arm and compress it as much as you can. Once the ball joint is loose, all you have to do is lower the jack and release all tension of the spring. By the time you lower the a-arm you will be able to pull the old spring and install the new one without much effort.
good luck.
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Black 99 xlt sc flairside,4.6 2w.d.,jardine catback,
superchip,
RS9000 shocks,
lowered 2" front and back,svt rims,265/60/18 avs yokohamas,
Ford 9mm sparkplug wires.
Snug Lid.2 KC daylighters.
FUTURE MODS: LS AND 4.10 GEARS.
I DID MINE 2 WEEKS AGO AND IT ONLY TOOK ME 2 1/2 HOURS FOR BOTH SIDES.sorry about upper case,now, make sure you have the frame supported with stands. Next, place a jack under the a-arm so you take some tension off the ball joint and spindle connection. Once the nut is loose go ahead and use the puller or just tap on the steering rod. if not then use the hammer to get it loose. i am thinking that you might have too much tension on the ball joint/spindle connection, that is why i recommend using the jack under the a-arm and compress it as much as you can. Once the ball joint is loose, all you have to do is lower the jack and release all tension of the spring. By the time you lower the a-arm you will be able to pull the old spring and install the new one without much effort.
good luck.
------------------
Black 99 xlt sc flairside,4.6 2w.d.,jardine catback,
superchip,
RS9000 shocks,
lowered 2" front and back,svt rims,265/60/18 avs yokohamas,
Ford 9mm sparkplug wires.
Snug Lid.2 KC daylighters.
FUTURE MODS: LS AND 4.10 GEARS.
#4
09-02-2000, 11:13 AM
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If you really want to be safe you can buy or rent a spring compressor that goes inside the coil and compress the coils tension. Much better then worring about the spring breaking your arm etc...
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99 Expedition 2wd 5.4L, Silver w/Dark Grey Int, Billet Grill (custom chrome insert), Door sills, pedals, brake cover, ant, wiper covers, fender badges, rear view mirror. Shaved roof rack & tail gate, fog light bumper color matched. Clear front corners, WMS intake, directional mirrors. DJM control arms, Toxic shocks, Front and Rear Airbag suspension with 4 wheel independent control, 20in CEC's w 295-40-zr20, Pioneer 7000cd, 9000R main unit, 12 disc changer, TV, VCR, Audiobahn 6.5 Comp Fr/R, 4 Audiobahnsubs, Earthquake Ph-D2. Clifford Avantguard G4, fully Dynamatted from front to rear, Nav tail lights, Phillips HID headlights.
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99 Expedition 2wd 5.4L, Silver w/Dark Grey Int, Billet Grill (custom chrome insert), Door sills, pedals, brake cover, ant, wiper covers, fender badges, rear view mirror. Shaved roof rack & tail gate, fog light bumper color matched. Clear front corners, WMS intake, directional mirrors. DJM control arms, Toxic shocks, Front and Rear Airbag suspension with 4 wheel independent control, 20in CEC's w 295-40-zr20, Pioneer 7000cd, 9000R main unit, 12 disc changer, TV, VCR, Audiobahn 6.5 Comp Fr/R, 4 Audiobahnsubs, Earthquake Ph-D2. Clifford Avantguard G4, fully Dynamatted from front to rear, Nav tail lights, Phillips HID headlights.
#5
09-02-2000, 01:01 PM
Join Date: Apr 2000
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Got it done...thanks, guys. I'm always about safety first, but the way I did it today (removed upper A-arm to frame bolts and then lowered the assembly) allowed the spring to decompress straight down...and not at any angle. Spring just fell out.
Now I just have to get it aligned, which I'd have to do anyway after this type of job.
Thx again.
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Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.63 @ 114.5)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.3)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html
Now I just have to get it aligned, which I'd have to do anyway after this type of job.
Thx again.
------------------
Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.63 @ 114.5)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.3)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html