I've just received my Edelbrock shocks and am planning to install them on Saturday myself. I don't have alot of specialty tools and wondered if any of you out there can give me some advice about a do-it-myself shock install. My questions are these:

First, should I even attempt it given the fact that the only jack I have is the one that came with the truck?

Second, if I can, where should I place the jack for doing the rears since the owners manual recommends jacking the rear of the truck with the axle? That won't allow the suspension to drop.

Third, can I get enough lift out of the factory jack to get the suspension to drop enough to get the shocks out and in easily using an alternate jacking location?

Fourth, for the fronts, there is a plastic clip that holds a wire or tube mounted to the top of the shock (threads). I can see that this has to come off, but are there any tricks to removing this without breaking it?

Lastly, is it possible to get the front shocks out (I assume they come out the bottom of the spring) without having the truck on a lift?

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1999 SuperCab 4.6L AT
K&N Filter
Factory Installed Soft Cover
50-Series Delta-Flow Single-In/Out (currently)
Wish List: More Rumble, 2/4 Lowering, aftermarket shocks to "de-bouncify" the ride

 

If it makes you feel better I changed mine with no jack. I have one it just wasn't needed. I put on a set of Rancho 9000's with little to no trouble. The only snag I ran into was getting to the top nut on the rear shocks off they were cross threaded. Once I got to it, I had trouble keeping the top of the shock from rotating while turning the rachet. But it took only an hour and a half to change out. One thing to remember is to keep the plastic retainer on the shock and put the base on first. Then cut the plastic and guide the shock into it's mounting hole as it expands. makes the job really easy. BTW I really love the 9000's.

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97 4X4 Flareside 4.6 5-Speed, Superchip, ASP underdrives, Airaid, Dynamax headers, Borla Cat-back, 5% Tint, 285/75/16, 16x8 Baha's, Rancho 9000's.

Soon to come:
3" body lift, 315/75/16 BFG KO's



[This message has been edited by OLE BLUE (edited 08-10-2000).]

 

I'm guessing that the hard part is getting the old ones out in there compressed state . . .

I'm guessing that with a 2WD (which mine is) that it will be harder to do that, especially the fronts.

 

It's not hard at all to get your old ones out. They're very easy to compress even when new. If you are replacing them because they are worn it will be even easier. Although I didn't notice that you have a 2WD, you might have to use a jack or better yet some ramps.

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97 4X4 Flareside 4.6 5-Speed, Superchip, ASP underdrives, Airaid, Dynamax headers, Borla Cat-back, 5% Tint, 285/75/16, 16x8 Baha's, Rancho 9000's.

Soon to come:
3" body lift, 315/75/16 BFG KO's

 

Yeah, I remember having some of those problems when I put on my RSX shocks a couple months ago. I had to get an 18mm deep socket for the top of the rear shocks. Getting them off was a PAIN!

I finally had to cut away the plastic shielding on the stocks and use a pair of vice grips to hold the shaft in place so it wouldn't turn while I was loosening the nut.

A little muscle is needed to compress the old shocks to get them out, but not much. If I can do it, anyone can!

Putting the new ones on is easy. I can't remember if I used my floor jack or not. I think I used the jack stands for safety though. Good luck!

 

I changed mine myself and had 2 posts on it, here they are. Hope it helps.

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I did the shocks myself. I got a 4x4 and found that jacking up the front and removing the front tires made it very easy to take out and swap in the new shocks. The front shocks are pretty easy to do, they did have a tight fit with the bushings on the bottom, but thats why WD-40 was created.
As for the rear shocks they were a little more of a pain, only becuase you have very little room to use a wrench to unbolt and rebolt the shocks plus you have to hold the shocks to unbolt them (an air ratchet would have made this easy). Also if you jack up the rear body of the truck it helps to compress the shocks to fit in. I installed the edlebrocks and it wasn't hard to compress them if you lay on your back and bench press them.

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Taking off the front wheels just gives you more room to work with, making it easier.
As for jacking up the rear, it helps also. But jack up the truck from the frame, not the axle. I put the jack under the tow hitch to raise the body and keep the wheels on the ground still, which gave more room for me under there and also more room to fit the shocks in.

Really it's an easy job, took me a little over 2 hours with no air tools.



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black 97' x-cab 4x4, 5 speed 4.6, black westin nerf bars, pilot ground searchers, borla SS split rear exhaust, K&N genII, bosch +4 plugs, superchip, flexalite electric fan, v-tech oval side window covers, IAS shocks

premier 720, pioneer 6cd changer, 12 premier sub, premier componets, 2 soso amps

still to come: new spark plug wires, new rims and tires.

 

I also have a 2wd, and did mine without jacking up the truck.

The plastic clip on the top of the front shocks is for wiring to the anti-lock brakes. It doesn't unthread - it pops open with a screwdriver. Look at it real close w/ a flashlight, find a seam and pop it open.

You really do need an 18mm deep socket - I think a 3/4" fits but is sloppy.

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1999 XLT S/C, 4.2 V-6, auto, 3.55 rear, dark torreador red/harvest gold, Ford bed liner

Clarion ARX8570z Head Unit, Sony 10 disc CD, Infinity 610cs components & JBL GTO7520 speakers; USAcousitcs 4065 amp and Polk 8" subwoofer

Edelbrock IAS, Energy Suspension anti-sway bar bushings, Steeda Rear Anti-sway bar, 2" rear drop.

Superchip, Airaid FIPK, Flex-a-Lite Black Magic electric fan

 

Thanks for the help guys. I'm off to get an 18mm deep socket tomorrow. I just hope that I don't run into the same frustration with the top of th rear shock (cross threading and all).

I think I'll just put my truck up on my ramps and go from there. I'm just a bit concerned about the rear now. I had assumed before your notes that the fronts would be the harder to get off.