oh boy was that a load of fun... I think it ranks up there with having the in laws visit... let me tell you this site is a baaaadd influence..I've gone crazy. So far I have bought new Westin bars, a billet grill, ripped my air filter housing to pieces and now I put on a 3" body lift...any way back to the subject, just like the tech article said it took about 14-15 hours and if hadn't been for the #%^#@%@ two rusted front body bolts would have taken less....thank goodness for neighbors with air impact wrenches!( I suggest you use an air compressor and air tools...my $^%*$7 body hates me...lots of elbow grease was required) The Performance Products lift cost me $110 from JC Whitney and it is excellent. Directions are very thorough and I was impressed. Everything you need is included. I do strongly suggest the 3" vs 2" (especially if you have a flareside) as the 2" doesn't raise the rear bumper. If anyone has questions post your question (and e-mail address if you like) and I will do my best to help you out. It does make my 2x4 look much, much better..I like the height it adds. By the way, right now I have sorta stock size tires 265/75 16 but it doesn't look bad at all with them.

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1997 F-150 Flareside SC K&N, Magnaflow muffler, Air Box mods,Soft Tonneau

 

Any pictures? I am thinking of doing this, but want to see one first.

Thanks,
Barrett

 

No sorry, I didn't take any yet nor did I take any when I did it as I was just too dirty to touch anything. Go look at a stock 4X4 w/stock tires. Basically, it's the exact same height (to naked eye at least) of a 99 4X4 because I parked next to one yesterday and compared. I have close to to stock tires. The trucks look pretty much the same save for the rear wheel wells where you can see the gap between bed and frame on mine but it's not bad at all. I'm installing a skirt there this weekend. (made from black shower liner pvc material and attached with moulding tape and screws). Front wheel well is pretty much the same as the 4X4. I love the way the lift looks...I am extremley happy with it even though it was sorta pain to do. Gives you a sense of accomplishment to see your truck sitting tall! Best $100 (and weekend) I've ever spent. Now for the Billet grill this weekend!

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1997 F-150 Flareside SC K&N, Magnaflow muffler, Air Box mods,Soft Tonneau

 

Florida,
I got done with mine a few weekends ago, and I'll agree, without air tools, that woulda been the biggest pain in the %^&%%^. I found I had to use the bolts from under the back seat for the front cab bolts. I thought I'd have some pics up, but I used a cheap camera and none of them turned out. &^%^&**!!! When the truck gets back from having the torsion bar replaced, I'll use my good camera and post them on my new and upcoming body lift page.

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98 XLT SC Flareside 4.6, 3.55LS, ORP, loaded (no leather), chrome Smittybilt Outland, 2 KC Daylighters (stainless), chrome diff cover, Ventshades, catback duals, Alpine CDw/Alpine 6-disc changer, Air Raid FIPK, 3" Body Lift, 33" Super Swamper SSRs on Centerline HTII Rims: www.mwr.is/~outplayn/Ford.html
BROKEN TORSION BAR
"The never ending project truck"



[This message has been edited by outplaying (edited 01-06-2000).]

 

Personally I think body lifts are a waste of time and money. All they allow you to do is apply bigger tires. Whats the point of bigger tires, if you dont have any more travel? Body lifts make a trucks look nasty. Seeing the frame sitting way below the body makes me sick. If you want bigger tires, and want to be cheap about it, crank the torsion bars up, and slap some cheap $20 3" blocks from Autozone on the truck.

 

Florida Ford
What was the JC Whitney part number?
I would like to see mine up in the air.

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97 F-150, 2WD, Reg Cab,Flareside,Dk Toreador Red, 4.6, 3.55 LS, EGR Bug Deflector, ******* Bed Cover, Bed Liner, XL Full Length Running Boards, Air Aid Kit, Gibson Single Out Cat Back, Superchips, TransGo Shift Kit, Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, Hellwig 2500# Overload Springs

 

I don't have my catalog handy but if you look in your catalog in the directory under body or lift you should find it. It's a Peformance Accessories kit ..it was the same list price ($126)as a lot of other sites but I had a 15% off coupon. Let me know if you can't find it and I will dig my catalog up and post the page, catalog, and part # so you can order. As you're a flare you should do the 3"..it costs $5 more due to rear brackets come w/it. As a sidenote,if you do this you could do your bushings with poly at the same time...I didn't think about it until it was too late.

By the way TheDude I have a barf bag you can borrow....but in all seriousness, you can't see my frame hardly at all and the skirts I am installing will cover the gap between the bed and frame. I didn't need a suspension lift as I don't go off road (I'm in south Florida ...concrete heaven)+ I didn't want to affect my ride. My tires are stock 4X4 size so I went to stock 4X4 height...lots cheaper than buying a 4X4 I don't need just to have the look I like. I guess you can say I'm a wannabe and you are entitled to your opinion but I don't care, I like the way it looks and just want to assist my fellow
F-150 owners in doing this if they wish as the more knowledge before you start the better.

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1997 F-150 Flareside SC K&N, Magnaflow muffler, Air Box mods,Soft Tonneau

 

Hey Stupiddude, oh I meant TheDude.

If Someone has a 2wd they can't crank the torsion bars. Duh they don't have any. As for the bodylift only allowing Bigger Tires, Well the ONLY way to increase Ground Clearanceis to Add Bigger Tires. You could Suspension Lift 12" If you wanted to but the Pumpkin and Axles would still be @ stock height till you put bigger tires.

Another Note: Suspension Lift = $1000.00 or so
Body Lift = $130.00

Same Result = Priceless

Also, What about me? I have a 3" Spindle lift on now which is a Suspension Lift. Plan on getting the Fabtech kit to go up another 3.5. So What If I want more? Should I not use the Body Lift? Should I Have something Custom Fabbed That Might cost a Small Forture?

You're New here and your profile says it all. Don't start throwing stones at other people just cause you don't like Their PERSONAL choice.

If you have an F150, Welcome and Stick around. Lots of knowledge here. Just try to be nicer Dude


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98 F150 2WD,Bright Red, Regular Cab, 4.2, 3.55, 5 Speed, Superchip, 2 Superchip Decals (I Think They Add 5 HP Each), 3 Inch Bullseye Lift Spindles, Manik Grill Guard,Nerf Bars, Vent Visors,Air Box Mod, Fog Lights Mounted In Front Air Dam ,2 Kc DayLighters, Back Up Lights, Alpine CD Player, 2 Kenwood Amps, 10 Inch MTX Blue Thunder SubWoofer, Tinted Windows. And Coming Soon: 3 Inch Body Lift Kit, 16.5 x 9.75 American Racing Baja Wheels Wrapped With 35x12.5x16.5 BFG All Terrains

'00 Toyota Celica GT( Wife's Car )

Pics @ http://www.angelfire.com/la2/ccla/

 

ccla,
nice white tail you bagged! I sure miss hunting back east, but here in Southern CA (SOCAL)the deer are tiny and small, not worth my time.

Oh and BTW "thedude" I didn't see any sig in your post, what kind of truck do you have, any cool aftermarket stuff yet?

F&B's

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98 F-150 XLT, SC, SWB, 2WD, 4.2L auto, 4.10 gears w/ LS, Tow Pkg. BFG AT 265/75/16, K&N air filter, Dynomax muffler, Superchip, Edlelbrock shocks, Hellwig sway bar, 3" body lift.....

 

To TheDude, As always, your opinion is welcomed on this page, but personal attacks are not. If you are going to make a comment, keep it tasteful. If you crank up the torsion bars, as you suggested, you get a harsher ride and throw your alignment off so far that it cannot be adjusted back in. What good are big tires that last less than 10k miles? Torsion bars are to adjust height a little, not to crank up for lifting. And, as CCLA said, 2WD's don't even have torsion bars.

 

Sorry, I didnt realize he had a 4x2, I wasnt paying attention. Yeah I know tires are the only way to give clearance, but whats the point in having clearance if you dont have articulation. You can buy a Rough Country front leveling kit for $144, gives you 2" on the front. Get some add-a-leafs for the rear, and bam you have a good 2" lift for a 4x2, cheap too. What about bodyroll, with the body lift? Cranking the torsion bars on a 4x4 up, decreases down travel. If you crank them up just a little, it can be aligned properly. Like the guy said, he doesnt do any off-roading, just mainly stays on the road. He did it for looks, so if he had a 4x4, cranking the torsion bars up, would be fine since he stays on the pavement most of the time.

 

TheDude, just a quick point if I may. On my last truck, which was mainly for on road use, I did crank up the torsion bars to make room for 33's, and even though I didn't mind the alignment being off, (camber), my front tires were showing extreme wear after only 5k miles. Wasn't worth it to me.

 

I know this message was posted a while back but I have some questions for you Florida Ford. Im interested in some more of the details of installing this lift. For example, what major tools are needed. I have an impact and 3 ton jack but exactly how do you lift the body up to put in the new spacers? Also, aren't there some body mounts under the interior carpet that would be a %#$^# to get to. Also, I would have to do this on a paved driveway due to the fact that my truck no longer fits in the garage. (5" superlift that my father and I put on). I would really like to do this myself with my dad's help if you think its possible with the proper tools.

Thanks for your help
snowball

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1997 F150 SuperCab 4x4 Off Road, 5.4l V8, 5" Superlift, Kicker and sony sound system, straight exaust

 

Hey snowball I'll try to do my best to give you a brief idea of whats involved. First I suggest you search under body lift ...some good posts and info..one member, CCLA, has put some good info out here on this subject...also check out the tech article its informative as well...now on to your question...

I did mine in my driveway...I live in a new subdivision so my neighbors loved this one....nothing like the sound of an impact hammer in the morning!

time-about 18 hours (drinking cold beer, bs w/ neighbors etc.) could be done in a little less but that was start to finish including taking out bedliner, tonneau etc..I had the truck up and lifted in one day. The next I put bumpers back on and finished it up.

tools-socket set, big/deep sockets for bumpers(I used a spark plug socket), assorted wrenches, heavy duty drill to drill new bumper holes in frame, 1/2 carbide tip drill bit, impact hammer & air compressor(makes removing the stock body mounts easier), torque wrench, torx bit to remove bed bolts (check other posts for size..its in the 40's), two 2 ton jacks, two 2x4's cut into 1 foot increments then nail together in a stack (8 to a stack), threadlock...and a cooler for the beer

The process is time consuming but not really hard...you have to remove and relocate a bunch of little stuff like the cab straps, grounding strap, tranny stuff, steering extension,remove bumpers-add height extenders, etc...I am by no means a mechanic and I had no problems except for the $&#%$ front two body bolts would not come off due to rust...word for the day is "impact wrench"....

bolt installation-remove all trim on door sills, lift up carpet,you'll see the bolts- loosen bolts on one side and pretty much loosen all the way on the other side of truck....then on the real loose side put one jack under the cab then the other jack under bed , use the wood spacer blocks to bridge the gap...then jack up each one slowly a little a time..otherwise you'll scratch your cab/bed...once you've got the side up put your spacers in and replace the bolts...then repeat on other side...then finish moving everything and put your bumpers back on and viola your trucks higher!

any more questions let me know....

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1997 Arctic White F-150 XLT Flareside SC, K&N, Magnaflow muffler, Air Box mods, Bugflector II, Soft Tonneau Cover, Chrome Westin Bars, 3" Performance Accessories Body Lift, tinted windows

Flares Rule!!!!!

 

Thanks for the great info. This sounds like a job that I could handle (with the beer of course). One more question for you, how many cab mounts are their under the interior of the truck and where are they located. I took the trim panels off not to long ago and I hated it. You have a supercab right? aren't there two underneath the back seat and wouldnt that have to be removed. Also, is the frame visible in the rear and front ends. Once again, thanks for your help and Im sure Ill be trying this in the near future.

Snowball