Getting wax off of plastic
#1
#2
#3
I had the same problem with wax and trim. I applied 303 Aerospace to the trim and it seems to have done the trick. If 303 just covers up the wax or actually removes it I do not know, but it'll also stop the trim from fading if used properly.
303 can be purchased at most boating supply stores (Boaters World, West Marine, etc.). I paid $18 for 32 oz. An internet retailer wanted $24 for 32 oz. For once, Boaters World was actually cheaper.
303 can be purchased at most boating supply stores (Boaters World, West Marine, etc.). I paid $18 for 32 oz. An internet retailer wanted $24 for 32 oz. For once, Boaters World was actually cheaper.
#4
My first suggestion is DO NOT use armor all despite the other suggestion.
First, armor all is a corrosive material and certainly won't be good when it rains and runs down your paint. Secondly, both of the products mentioned will only mask the problem and not actually remove it.
There has been all kinds of talk about this problem (I too have wax on my trim) on the GENERAL CARE section in the BODY forum. Everything from Peanut Butter (which some swear by) to Meguiars trim detailer have been discussed. I think the best way to resolve your problem is to not get wax on the trim. I know, it sounds stupid but, I haven't figured out a way to get it out and off.
The problem is that the trim (especially that below the windows) is a porus rubber compound and the wax molecules are obviously smaller than the rubber pore space thus, the wax gets down in there. Removing it is just short of a miracle from god himself.
Peanut butter and a toothbrush work pretty well at masking the problem but, plan on reapplying after a couple of washes...
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but, after SEVERAL UNSUCCESSFUL TRIES with ALL KINDS OF PRODUCTS (back to black (the worst product ever invented), Meguiars Trim Detailer, Peanut Butter, car wash concentrate, Dawn, (shall I go on?) (I literally have bought a BOX of stuff just to remove the wax from the trim), I still have wax on my trim.
One thought--don't use anything that's corrosive or that contains a large percentage of alcohol. The alcohol will deteorate the rubber moldings and the corrosive will do what I mentioned earlier.
Just a tip.... when waxxing, use a piece of cardboard at the edge of that trim. Hold the cardboard in one hand while working the wax up to the edge of the cardboard. That way, if you go over, the cardboard catches the wax and not the trim. Sure, it's a pain in the butt but, trust me, it works. I don't get wax on my trim anymore. (Thanks to someone on one of the Ford boards for that tip... not sure who you are but, it works DAMN good).
The only sure fire way that I know of to get them looking good again is replace them -- which wouldn't be cheap.
Ford goofed by putting those on there. My local wax shop (specifically a car detail/Meguiars Mirror Glaze shop (among various other car care products) has looked at the trim on my truck numerous times and given me several free 'attempts' to remove the wax. I'd trust these guys with anything that I have that's painted and, guess what, they can't figure out how to remove it safely.
I've actually heard of folks (user dufunnel specifically) buying the BLACKWOODS window trim (which is chrome) so that he could get rid of the rubber ones on his truck. And by the way, it looks pretty damn good.
I've given up on it and determined it to be a lost cause.
Good Luck.
RP
First, armor all is a corrosive material and certainly won't be good when it rains and runs down your paint. Secondly, both of the products mentioned will only mask the problem and not actually remove it.
There has been all kinds of talk about this problem (I too have wax on my trim) on the GENERAL CARE section in the BODY forum. Everything from Peanut Butter (which some swear by) to Meguiars trim detailer have been discussed. I think the best way to resolve your problem is to not get wax on the trim. I know, it sounds stupid but, I haven't figured out a way to get it out and off.
The problem is that the trim (especially that below the windows) is a porus rubber compound and the wax molecules are obviously smaller than the rubber pore space thus, the wax gets down in there. Removing it is just short of a miracle from god himself.
Peanut butter and a toothbrush work pretty well at masking the problem but, plan on reapplying after a couple of washes...
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but, after SEVERAL UNSUCCESSFUL TRIES with ALL KINDS OF PRODUCTS (back to black (the worst product ever invented), Meguiars Trim Detailer, Peanut Butter, car wash concentrate, Dawn, (shall I go on?) (I literally have bought a BOX of stuff just to remove the wax from the trim), I still have wax on my trim.
One thought--don't use anything that's corrosive or that contains a large percentage of alcohol. The alcohol will deteorate the rubber moldings and the corrosive will do what I mentioned earlier.
Just a tip.... when waxxing, use a piece of cardboard at the edge of that trim. Hold the cardboard in one hand while working the wax up to the edge of the cardboard. That way, if you go over, the cardboard catches the wax and not the trim. Sure, it's a pain in the butt but, trust me, it works. I don't get wax on my trim anymore. (Thanks to someone on one of the Ford boards for that tip... not sure who you are but, it works DAMN good).
The only sure fire way that I know of to get them looking good again is replace them -- which wouldn't be cheap.
Ford goofed by putting those on there. My local wax shop (specifically a car detail/Meguiars Mirror Glaze shop (among various other car care products) has looked at the trim on my truck numerous times and given me several free 'attempts' to remove the wax. I'd trust these guys with anything that I have that's painted and, guess what, they can't figure out how to remove it safely.
I've actually heard of folks (user dufunnel specifically) buying the BLACKWOODS window trim (which is chrome) so that he could get rid of the rubber ones on his truck. And by the way, it looks pretty damn good.
I've given up on it and determined it to be a lost cause.
Good Luck.
RP
#5
RP ... tried to go through you novel there and did not see any mention of Rubbing alcohol ... I have been on different detailer web sites and they all say to use rubbing alcohol. I have not tried it ... but i had a detailer come out about a month ago and of course I need to try it. Maybe i will find time to by the end of the week.
defunnels truck does look good but there is still a lot of rubber to get wax off of if you make a mistake.
defunnels truck does look good but there is still a lot of rubber to get wax off of if you make a mistake.
#6
Actually he did mention alcohol, and not to use it. But that may be something I may want to try. This wax thing sucks I would have been more carefull if I knew that it would be this much of a problem.
I most likley will try the alcohol and then use the Meguiars Trim Detailer. If that still dosen't work then I guess time will have to work on it. Unfortunatly in San Diego rain is seen about as often as an empty freeway.
I most likley will try the alcohol and then use the Meguiars Trim Detailer. If that still dosen't work then I guess time will have to work on it. Unfortunatly in San Diego rain is seen about as often as an empty freeway.
#7
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#9
Originally posted by RockPick
One thought--don't use anything that's corrosive or that contains a large percentage of alcohol. The alcohol will deteorate the rubber moldings and the corrosive will do what I mentioned earlier.
One thought--don't use anything that's corrosive or that contains a large percentage of alcohol. The alcohol will deteorate the rubber moldings and the corrosive will do what I mentioned earlier.
I haven't tried the simple green however, I've heard mixed stories on it... guess that's my next item for the box.
The alcohol trick might work if it's dilute but, I wouldn't use straight rubbing alcohol as the volitile properties will cause the volitiles in the rubber to break down, in short, causing the rubber to deterorate.
I don't know this to be fact but, it's certainly something that makes sense to me after seeing some manufacturing in action with some of my clients that use alcohol and rubber. In fact, one place (a place that makes throttle bodies for the Toyota Camary) uses the alcohol to actually aide in melting a rubber seal inside the body itself.
That's what turned me off from alcohol.... *shrugs*
RP
--see, I can respond without a novel. HAHAHA!
#11
#13
The wax looks bad because it is only on the edges and discolors the rubber/plastic in an irregular fashion. I recommend applying liberal amounts of wax on all rubber parts (including the tires) that way it is all a uniform grey.
Disclaimer: the previous was a joke, I do not endorse or recommend applying wax to anything but painted surfaces. I personally like the masking tape idea.
Disclaimer: the previous was a joke, I do not endorse or recommend applying wax to anything but painted surfaces. I personally like the masking tape idea.
#15